Near death experience (my S...not me)
Discussion
A jubilee clip that holds the bottom radiator hose broke (actually it corroded through), causing a slow but steady drip of coolant. Only noticed when the temp went deep into the red 
. There does not seem to be any permanent damage. I'l totally paranoid about the engine temp now. where should it sit normally, what variability should I expect. My fan kicks in when it hits the red?? How fast up and down??
See...paranoid.
. There does not seem to be any permanent damage. I'l totally paranoid about the engine temp now. where should it sit normally, what variability should I expect. My fan kicks in when it hits the red?? How fast up and down?? See...paranoid.
Impossible to say because you don't know how accurate your gauge is, and for all you know you could have a non-standard stat or otter switch.
The most important safety check is that the heater is putting out hot air. That ensures you that at least you have some water circulation round the engine; without that, you can't rely on the gauge or the fans, and it's possible to damage the engine very quickly. If you have water circulation it may still overheat and/or boil, but it will do so relatively slowly and you will see it happening on the gauge.
There are loads of variations in running temperatures, but as a general guide the fans should come on when the temperature rises 5 - 10 degrees over the normal running temperature. However, if you have a non-standard stat or otter switch fitted, or either of them are defective, the difference could be outside this range. And if your stat is missing or defective, your engine can stay well below the normal operating temperature while you're moving.
Once the engine has warmed up, it would be unusual for the temperature to rise or fall by more than a few degrees a minute.
So it's very hard to say what temperatures you should expect to see. But as long as it stays around an indicated 80-90 degrees and doesn't go into the red, and the general behaviour seems the same as it was before the incident, I think you're probably OK.
By the way, it is important to bleed the radiator periodically, and any time you have run low on water.
The most important safety check is that the heater is putting out hot air. That ensures you that at least you have some water circulation round the engine; without that, you can't rely on the gauge or the fans, and it's possible to damage the engine very quickly. If you have water circulation it may still overheat and/or boil, but it will do so relatively slowly and you will see it happening on the gauge.
There are loads of variations in running temperatures, but as a general guide the fans should come on when the temperature rises 5 - 10 degrees over the normal running temperature. However, if you have a non-standard stat or otter switch fitted, or either of them are defective, the difference could be outside this range. And if your stat is missing or defective, your engine can stay well below the normal operating temperature while you're moving.
Once the engine has warmed up, it would be unusual for the temperature to rise or fall by more than a few degrees a minute.
So it's very hard to say what temperatures you should expect to see. But as long as it stays around an indicated 80-90 degrees and doesn't go into the red, and the general behaviour seems the same as it was before the incident, I think you're probably OK.
By the way, it is important to bleed the radiator periodically, and any time you have run low on water.
I had a similar experience shortly into my S ownership. It appears that the S1 has a poor design whereby the hose clip rests on one of the lower chassis members. This holds water and corrodes both fairly quickly.
When replacing, I managed to move the hose and joiner around until sufficient clearance was obtained to ensure the I don't have a repeat experience.
I was also paranoid for a while as she does seem to run hot.
I have noticed that she runs much cooler, even when trying, in the cold weather so I am planning a new rad ready for the spring.
When replacing, I managed to move the hose and joiner around until sufficient clearance was obtained to ensure the I don't have a repeat experience.
I was also paranoid for a while as she does seem to run hot.
I have noticed that she runs much cooler, even when trying, in the cold weather so I am planning a new rad ready for the spring.
Hmmm. Thanks. Gave it a thrash earlier and seemed ok, set itself between 87 and 92 degrees, even through town. After one particularly loud stretch I slowed and pulled up (home at last). The temp quickly rose to 90 degrees (just in the red) when the fan kicked in. That sounds like what it should do considering. I did notice a very small escape of steam out of the bottom of the swirl tank (Must Fix). Overall, the oil looks as it should, no custard at the filler, great oil pressure and no change in sound (noisy tappets) or performance. Grrrrr
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I'm still paranoid, but it sounds like the standard for the S owner. I'm like you, gefopsman, big scare and only a week into an S.
. I'm still paranoid, but it sounds like the standard for the S owner. I'm like you, gefopsman, big scare and only a week into an S.
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