S1 2.8 manifold bolts etc
S1 2.8 manifold bolts etc
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Discussion

greyhulk

Original Poster:

989 posts

128 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
Evening all,
Just picking your brains for some info.. Been on the phone to ACT ordering stainless manifolds (a treat for my S!)

I haven't got the old ones off so not sure what size bolts, nuts i need? If any of you kind 'S' gents can help me out would appreciate it,

Cheers
Steve


Alan461

853 posts

153 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
M8 x 1.25

greyhulk

Original Poster:

989 posts

128 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
Alan461 said:
M8 x 1.25
Nice one Alan thumbup

Alan461

853 posts

153 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
Got 30mm long stainless cap heads on mine, not sure if it's ok to use stainless but seem to be ok

greyhulk

Original Poster:

989 posts

128 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
Alan461 said:
Got 30mm long stainless cap heads on mine, not sure if it's ok to use stainless but seem to be ok
caphead bolts certainly look alot tidier, I was considering stainless or titanium? Gotta be an improvement from the originals that end up caked in brown rust & corroded





Edited by greyhulk on Thursday 9th June 18:51

greymrj

3,329 posts

226 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
I have also used stainless, both for the manifold to block bolts and the manifold to pipe. But I did take care to get hold of the higher tensile option and I did use Copperslip on the manifold to block bolts. I used Hex but I should have used hex socket and will do on the 'new' engine.
Anyone using the original cast manifolds might wish to be aware of one modification that can be made. The studs in the end of the manifolds get in a bad way and getting them out when the threads are gone can damage the flange. In addition the flange is pretty vulnerable if the exhaust takes a hit, which it does pretty often on the S1. When I had the manifolds off I took the opportunity to use heat on the studs and get them out. I then drilled out the stud holes a size larger. I now have stainless hex socket screws (and double nuts)right through the manifold and pipe flanges. As they are one size undersize they do allow a little bit of shock movement without damage, and indeed I have seen evidence that they have allowed such movement without even breaking the exhaust gas seal. B....y sight easier to het undone too!

phillpot

17,442 posts

205 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
Alan461 said:
Got 30mm long stainless cap heads on mine, not sure if it's ok to use stainless but seem to be ok
You might struggle getting an Allen key into some (all?) of the bottom bolts?

Can be difficult (impossible?) to get a ring spanner on normal M8 bolts with 13mm head in one or two places so I went for M8 bolts with a 10mm head wink .............. clicky

greyhulk

Original Poster:

989 posts

128 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
As always great advice gents, appreciated.
So I'm looking at 8, M8 (1.25 thread) x 30mm bolts, think i will be going with Mr Phillpot's link saves me searching around on evilbay.

Just remembered the manifolds come with the downpipes too, I'm guessing there's a further 2 gaskets I've forgot about there an another 4 bolts?

phillpot

17,442 posts

205 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
You might struggle getting an Allen key into some (all?) of the bottom bolts?

Can be difficult (impossible?) to get a ring spanner on normal M8 bolts with 13mm head in one or two places so I went for M8 bolts with a 10mm head wink .............. clicky
Forget all that.... forgot yours is a 2.8 getmecoat

greyhulk

Original Poster:

989 posts

128 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Forget all that.... forgot yours is a 2.8 getmecoat
laugh I was about to say wait a minute im sure yours has different manifolds to mine, isn't Alan's an S2 aswell?

greymrj

3,329 posts

226 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
Although things are indeed a bit different on the 2.8, Mike has however made a worthwhile point. It might well be sensible to have different fixings at different locations based as much on access as anything else. There is no reason they have to be the same, it is not as if we are looking at quick release with limited tools.
That said the titanium bolts do look and sound cool!!

greyhulk

Original Poster:

989 posts

128 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the replys gents, im a little confused now as to what exactly I need to order..
M8 x 30mm (1.25 thread) still the right ones to go for? Or are they s2/s3 sizes rolleyes

Alan461

853 posts

153 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
Given it's a 2.8 I can't be 100% certain but if they are 13mm hex then M8
The cast manifolds may be thicker at the flange but you could check this with a tape measure.
Failing this spin one out and compare with one of known spec.

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

306 months

Friday 10th June 2016
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One of the recurring problems with the V8 is that the manifold flanges aren't thick enough to get a decent amount of stretch on the bolts to cope with thermal expansion. If you're starting from scratch it would be worth thinking about using longer bolts (with sleeves between the bolt head and the flange). I assume that would change how accessible the bolts are - would it change it for the better?

Kitchski

6,544 posts

253 months

Friday 10th June 2016
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M10 studs/nuts on an exhaust manifold chaps, on the 2.8 anyway.

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

306 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
Oh, and see if you can include a set of nord-lock washers in your budget.

Ceejay73

489 posts

250 months

Friday 10th June 2016
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Kitchski said:
M10 studs/nuts on an exhaust manifold chaps, on the 2.8 anyway.
Really? Manifold to head? WOW! That has really surprised me, never seen any car with larger than M8 or 5/16" on old stuff.
I am not saying you are incorrect as I have never worked on a 2.8 but, WOW!

Stunned,
Carl.


greymrj

3,329 posts

226 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
Just to confirm, the threads in the heads of a 2.8 where the manifold is secured are M10 x 1.5. The originals are studs but I have changed mine and one of the other engines I have also has bolts. The bolts are 30mm under the bolt head and 16mm hex on the old one in front of me now. I have checked 3 sets of heads and they are all M10. I have a horrible suspicion however that the very early Cologne engines might not have been the same so there may be a few heads around on S's which differ.

greyhulk

Original Poster:

989 posts

128 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
greymrj said:
Just to confirm, the threads in the heads of a 2.8 where the manifold is secured are M10 x 1.5. The originals are studs but I have changed mine and one of the other engines I have also has bolts. The bolts are 30mm under the bolt head and 16mm hex on the old one in front of me now. I have checked 3 sets of heads and they are all M10. I have a horrible suspicion however that the very early Cologne engines might not have been the same so there may be a few heads around on S's which differ.
Very helpful as always, thanks gents, made a note of what I need now (got a 4weeks wait on the ss manifolds *sigh*)

Kitchski

6,544 posts

253 months

Saturday 11th June 2016
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
Oh, and see if you can include a set of nord-lock washers in your budget.
Not required on the colognes so much. Start days spring washers are fine, they don't work loose like the RV8 ones.

In fact they'll probably rust in place anyway!