Fuel Tank Powder Coating
Discussion
Hi Chaps
Quick question. Has anyone ever had their fuel tank blasted and powder coated? I ask as I was thinking of having it done, and phoned a local company for a quote. However, they wanted to know (not unreasonably) whether it has any soldered parts in it, as this can melt at powder-coating baking temps.
Does anyone know if S-series tanks have soldered parts, or has anyone previously had the tank powder-coated (with potentially awful results!)?
Quick question. Has anyone ever had their fuel tank blasted and powder coated? I ask as I was thinking of having it done, and phoned a local company for a quote. However, they wanted to know (not unreasonably) whether it has any soldered parts in it, as this can melt at powder-coating baking temps.
Does anyone know if S-series tanks have soldered parts, or has anyone previously had the tank powder-coated (with potentially awful results!)?
Hi, yes the TVR S tanks do have soldered parts! The fuel sender mounting ring, the fuel outlet pipe and the in tank filter cover are usually soldered certainly on earlier cars.
I wouldnt advise traditional powder coating of a used fuel tank and only specialist companies would do it anyway. These tanks are much more likely to rust on the inside than the outside mainly as a result of condensation as most cars will have been laid up at some time during their c25 year life. Before you even think of getting the outside treated find out what it is like inside! Treating the outside is very likely to be a waste of time and money unless the tank is unusually good.
The most likely place for corrosion problems to start is in the area of the fuel swirl pot at the bottom of the tank. All the crud collects there as does any water. In there is a nylon tubular filter which has almost certainly collapsed by now and is just as likely to be restricting flow than filtering the fuel.
The other point with these tanks is that they have two baffles set front to bakc of the car to reduce fuel surge when cornering. Where those baffles join to the bottom of the tank is another corrosion point and there are spot rivets there which tend to 'focus' that corrosion. I dont care what people say about cleaning the tank and using a sealant, it just isnt possible to get behind those baffles effectively or to deal with that swirl pot effectively.
Two choices really with a tank that old.
1. Get a replacement, which will have to be made, there are a few people out there who have the knowledge to custom make a new tank in steel, alloy or stainless. A new steel tank, properly treated, should last another 25 years. I have yet to be convinced by alloy tanks outside the bodyshell where bi-metallic corrosion is very likely. Also anybody with experience of the effects of condensation inside an alloy tank would also be wary. Corrosion in alloy progresses in a different way to corrosion in steel and can 'pinhole'.
2. Get the existing tank to a specialist in fuel tank restoration. They will assess it and advise. They can do a proper restoration and you finish up with a repaired, lined and coated tank with a very good guarantee. I would recommend Hartlepool Radiator Co. They couldnt have been more helpful. They have a franchise for an American system, I went to see mine done and I was VERY impressed by their knowledge and thoroughness. These days courier prices for sending your tank are much more competitive so I would box it up and send it to them for appraisal.
When I had mine done I had the old filter system removed (I now have a good external renewable cartridge filter fitted prior to the pump)and a proper drain plug fitted to the tank.
I have some pictures somewhere including before, after and work in progess.
I wouldnt advise traditional powder coating of a used fuel tank and only specialist companies would do it anyway. These tanks are much more likely to rust on the inside than the outside mainly as a result of condensation as most cars will have been laid up at some time during their c25 year life. Before you even think of getting the outside treated find out what it is like inside! Treating the outside is very likely to be a waste of time and money unless the tank is unusually good.
The most likely place for corrosion problems to start is in the area of the fuel swirl pot at the bottom of the tank. All the crud collects there as does any water. In there is a nylon tubular filter which has almost certainly collapsed by now and is just as likely to be restricting flow than filtering the fuel.
The other point with these tanks is that they have two baffles set front to bakc of the car to reduce fuel surge when cornering. Where those baffles join to the bottom of the tank is another corrosion point and there are spot rivets there which tend to 'focus' that corrosion. I dont care what people say about cleaning the tank and using a sealant, it just isnt possible to get behind those baffles effectively or to deal with that swirl pot effectively.
Two choices really with a tank that old.
1. Get a replacement, which will have to be made, there are a few people out there who have the knowledge to custom make a new tank in steel, alloy or stainless. A new steel tank, properly treated, should last another 25 years. I have yet to be convinced by alloy tanks outside the bodyshell where bi-metallic corrosion is very likely. Also anybody with experience of the effects of condensation inside an alloy tank would also be wary. Corrosion in alloy progresses in a different way to corrosion in steel and can 'pinhole'.
2. Get the existing tank to a specialist in fuel tank restoration. They will assess it and advise. They can do a proper restoration and you finish up with a repaired, lined and coated tank with a very good guarantee. I would recommend Hartlepool Radiator Co. They couldnt have been more helpful. They have a franchise for an American system, I went to see mine done and I was VERY impressed by their knowledge and thoroughness. These days courier prices for sending your tank are much more competitive so I would box it up and send it to them for appraisal.
When I had mine done I had the old filter system removed (I now have a good external renewable cartridge filter fitted prior to the pump)and a proper drain plug fitted to the tank.
I have some pictures somewhere including before, after and work in progess.
If the tank is off the car, I would just scrape, wipe with some thinners and hand paint with a rust inhibitor and a paint top coat.
Powder coating is carried out at 180 degrees for approx 10 minutes and without the tank having been flushed out with a non flammable product to avoid any explosions from trapped fumes, it would be a brave company that would take on coating a used tank! We certainly wouldn't.
No idea about the construction of the tank so not sure what damage the heat would do to it.
Standard powder coating equipment (line or box oven), will not coat the inside. Without going into the science behind it, the powder does not attract to the metal of the internals of tanks or pipework. Companies that specialise in coating pipework use a dipping technique that would probably work. But would be very costly ..............and that's if they want an old petrol tank in their baths!
Personally, I'd have a new tank made if the one you have is that bad.
Powder coating is carried out at 180 degrees for approx 10 minutes and without the tank having been flushed out with a non flammable product to avoid any explosions from trapped fumes, it would be a brave company that would take on coating a used tank! We certainly wouldn't.
No idea about the construction of the tank so not sure what damage the heat would do to it.
Standard powder coating equipment (line or box oven), will not coat the inside. Without going into the science behind it, the powder does not attract to the metal of the internals of tanks or pipework. Companies that specialise in coating pipework use a dipping technique that would probably work. But would be very costly ..............and that's if they want an old petrol tank in their baths!
Personally, I'd have a new tank made if the one you have is that bad.
upperthong said:
Personally, I'd have a new tank made if the one you have is that bad.
Getting a new tank made, with baffles as original, is costly. If the tank is anything like mine it will be 95% fine with rust just at certain known problem areas. The technique used by Hartlepool Radiator is nothing like powder coating. It does require heat, although not as high by any means, and they have the C02 filled enclose to bake it in.
Dont forget it can be very hard to see rust inside the tank. They have the gear to check it properly.
Lewis's Friend said:
... Quick question. Has anyone ever had their fuel tank blasted and powder coated?
I shot blasted the outside of my tank and coated it with a 2 component epoxy paint. There were no problems encountered when doing this. The inside was in very good condition and just the outside needed a good clean up.Thanks for all the feedback guys. I guess I'll have to pull the tank and assess it then. I'm waiting for my new drive to be finished, and what better way to begin its life than with a baptism of petrol...!
I have no problems with the tank/leaks etc. Really I just wanted to tidy it up. Obviously that may have to change upon inspection.
I have no problems with the tank/leaks etc. Really I just wanted to tidy it up. Obviously that may have to change upon inspection.
[quote=Lewis's Friend. Really I just wanted to tidy it up. Obviously that may have to change upon inspection.
[/quote]
Yes, you are going to have to take it off anyway so that is the time to give it a good inspection. Who knows, you may be lucky. When it is off though I would try hard to get a good look inside, your local garage might even be prepared to look with an endoscope. Have a look at the swirl pot underneath, it may have a soldered on aperture on the bottom which is easily removed to check the filter hasnt broken up and it isnt full of crud! Shake the tank about a bit and see if there is anything loose, if there is then it has started to rust inside. If the rust is minor than an in line filter should stop the rust getting into the pump, it rapidly drops the pressure the pump can achieve. Keep and eye on the in line filter and keep the tank reasonably full and you may be fine for years. But if you get spoonfuls of rust you really have to face getting the inside done.
Once again. Pay particular attention to the swirl pot area that is the most likely place fro rust coming through from the inside. Keep a little fuel in and see if any damp spots appear when you clean that area!! Mine wasnt leaking until I cleaned it!
[/quote]
Yes, you are going to have to take it off anyway so that is the time to give it a good inspection. Who knows, you may be lucky. When it is off though I would try hard to get a good look inside, your local garage might even be prepared to look with an endoscope. Have a look at the swirl pot underneath, it may have a soldered on aperture on the bottom which is easily removed to check the filter hasnt broken up and it isnt full of crud! Shake the tank about a bit and see if there is anything loose, if there is then it has started to rust inside. If the rust is minor than an in line filter should stop the rust getting into the pump, it rapidly drops the pressure the pump can achieve. Keep and eye on the in line filter and keep the tank reasonably full and you may be fine for years. But if you get spoonfuls of rust you really have to face getting the inside done.
Once again. Pay particular attention to the swirl pot area that is the most likely place fro rust coming through from the inside. Keep a little fuel in and see if any damp spots appear when you clean that area!! Mine wasnt leaking until I cleaned it!
greymrj said:
upperthong said:
What do you call costly? Costly depends on the condition of the tank taken off the car.
Puzzled, the cost of a new tank doesnt depend on the condition of the tank taken off?Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff