Fanbelt/v-belt for S2 2.9
Discussion
Hi folks,
I have a periodic screeching coming from the engine bay. No small animals or children are present and it happens irrespective of clutch position so I am assuming it is a slipping V-belt (although no alternator light is coming on).
2 things - what belt should I get?, and can I get away with just taking off the coolant hose, swapping the belt, and reattaching the hose without topping up/bleeding etc.?
I have a periodic screeching coming from the engine bay. No small animals or children are present and it happens irrespective of clutch position so I am assuming it is a slipping V-belt (although no alternator light is coming on).
2 things - what belt should I get?, and can I get away with just taking off the coolant hose, swapping the belt, and reattaching the hose without topping up/bleeding etc.?
What, you were serious? 
You don't normally need to disconnect hoses to replace the belt. If yours has hoses passing through the belt then that is not normal - in this case you would need to disconnect the hose to replace the belt. Hopefully it's obvious that would involve draining down and refilling.
Is the belt in reasonable condition? If so, try belt dressing spray before you resort to replacing the belt.
Is the belt tension correct? If not, correct that before you try anything else.
Belt squeal normally varies with revs and with electrical load, so if your noise doesn't do that then you might want to look for other potential sources.
You don't normally need to disconnect hoses to replace the belt. If yours has hoses passing through the belt then that is not normal - in this case you would need to disconnect the hose to replace the belt. Hopefully it's obvious that would involve draining down and refilling.
Is the belt in reasonable condition? If so, try belt dressing spray before you resort to replacing the belt.
Is the belt tension correct? If not, correct that before you try anything else.
Belt squeal normally varies with revs and with electrical load, so if your noise doesn't do that then you might want to look for other potential sources.
GreenV8S said:
What, you were serious?
You don't normally need to disconnect hoses to replace the belt. If yours has hoses passing through the belt then that is not normal - in this case you would need to disconnect the hose to replace the belt. Hopefully it's obvious that would involve draining down and refilling.
Yep, perfectly serious! I didn't know whether this was a TVR "idiosyncracy". Hence asking! I was wondering if there was a trick to doing it without too much coolant loss.You don't normally need to disconnect hoses to replace the belt. If yours has hoses passing through the belt then that is not normal - in this case you would need to disconnect the hose to replace the belt. Hopefully it's obvious that would involve draining down and refilling.
GreenV8S said:
Is the belt in reasonable condition? If so, try belt dressing spray before you resort to replacing the belt.
Is the belt tension correct? If not, correct that before you try anything else.
Belt squeal normally varies with revs and with electrical load, so if your noise doesn't do that then you might want to look for other potential sources.
The belt looks OK, no cracks, bit of surface rust on the pulleys so wondering if that is causing a problem. Had a poke around today but couldn't make it do it. Tends to happen when the car is cold, although it did it for 10 or so seconds the other evening and I couldn't make it stop by easing off the gas (tends to do it with revs as you say).Is the belt tension correct? If not, correct that before you try anything else.
Belt squeal normally varies with revs and with electrical load, so if your noise doesn't do that then you might want to look for other potential sources.
NiceCupOfTea said:
there is a pipe from the water pump to the swirl pot that goes "through" the belt.
The original set up has a pipe, possibly no longer available, that twists and turns to go around the fan belt.Sounds like Norman may have done what I have also done, run a piece of pipe through the fan belt. Should the belt need replacing its a quick pipe off and back on with minimal coolant loss.
Can't help with belt size, mine are non standard as I have modified the alternator bracket to give clearance over the alloy rocker covers.
A slightly loose belt will often squeal just after starting as the alternator in working hard to recharge the battery.
Edited by phillpot on Saturday 1st April 21:57
NiceCupOfTea said:
That's correct. I wondered if I should have two belts fitted but it's always been like that AFAIK.
My S2 had twin belts fitted but I don't know how common that is. I suggest checking tension, try some belt dressing or soap on the belt to see whether that helps, and if you do end up replacing the belt take the opportunity to fit the second belt.The second pulley is for the power steering pump on a Granada or Sierra.
Barry S1 said:
Mine is the same, when the belt broke last year and got very hot I lost most of the water but had a nice steam cleaned engine.
That old spare QH belt was in the boot for years. I hope it's still OK.IMHO V belts should always make contact with the sides of the pulleys first.
In other words, they might look okay on the quick service check, but if the belt is bottoming out in the pulleys, it cant be making good frictional contact with the pulley sides, & as has been said previously, when load is presented, it will slip & squeal. So when I see a belt with really shiney sides, it gets binned & a new one fitted.
TerryB
In other words, they might look okay on the quick service check, but if the belt is bottoming out in the pulleys, it cant be making good frictional contact with the pulley sides, & as has been said previously, when load is presented, it will slip & squeal. So when I see a belt with really shiney sides, it gets binned & a new one fitted.
TerryB
Edited by Blue 30 on Sunday 2nd April 17:02
Looks like you have all silicone hoses fitted, I contacted the silicone hose suppliers as when I received them there was no bendy shaped hose that went from the swirl pot to the thermostat housing as per original, was told they don't make one just thread the one they supplied through the belt. Looks like this has been done with yours. You can blank this off and re route through the heater and also blank off at the water pump which eliminates the rusty pipe which goes round the sump which I have done and works well and saves disconnecting the hose for belt replacement and also improves the heater and temperature stability.
The diagrams are on here somewhere, have saved them somewhere and will post when found.
Hope this helps.
The diagrams are on here somewhere, have saved them somewhere and will post when found.
Hope this helps.
Take no2 from heater matrix to top of water pump, just cut the hose about 3 inches from where it comes out of the body and use 15mm copper tube with plumbing olives saldered at each end.
Blank off no6 at swirl pot using short piece of hose and blank
Blank off no2 at bottom of water pump, this bit eliminates the steel pipe under the sump which is usually very rusty.
For blanking hoses I used 15mm copper pipe with a blank soldered on the end and a 15mm plumbing olive saldered about 5mm from the end to stop the hose coming off.
Can put pictures of mine on Tuesday if needed as not with car till then.
You might need an extra length of silicone hose to do this job.
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