Discussion
Dear All
As you know I have been trying to get new shocks and springs for my S3 for a few days and have had a nightmare.
The prices vary dramatically from supplier to supplier.
I can now post that the proper prices are £460.18 including VAT for the fully adjustable Gaz shocks, springs,C spanner and delivery.
Mind you, getting this official price is near impossible, mail me if you want details.
As you know I have been trying to get new shocks and springs for my S3 for a few days and have had a nightmare.
The prices vary dramatically from supplier to supplier.
I can now post that the proper prices are £460.18 including VAT for the fully adjustable Gaz shocks, springs,C spanner and delivery.
Mind you, getting this official price is near impossible, mail me if you want details.
bugsy said:
Dear All
As you know I have been trying to get new shocks and springs for my S3 for a few days and have had a nightmare.
The prices vary dramatically from supplier to supplier.
I can now post that the proper prices are £460.18 including VAT for the fully adjustable Gaz shocks, springs,C spanner and delivery.
Mind you, getting this official price is near impossible, mail me if you want details.
Blimy Derek, are you sure you will get 400 - 500 gbp of benefit? Much as I like the idea, and will probably do it....
bugsy said:
It depends what you are used to Ro, I had new springs and Avo's on the old car and the new one handles like a pig in comparrison
That is true. I must say that the handling of mine is not as modern cars. It seems to be very sensitive to tyre pressure. When I bought it, the tyre pressure was around 15 psi. Handling was improved hugely by putting 22 and 24 front and rear respectively.
I had sort of accepted that the quality of handling was to be expected from a car of this age.
It seems to be very confusing:
People talk about ordering springs separately - different lbs front and back and then the shocks are different again. Are the Gaz shocks you talk about the same as AVOs?
I imagine once you have bought the springs and the shocks it’s a relatively straightforward job.
ro_torque said:
That is true. I must say that the handling of mine is not as modern cars. It seems to be very sensitive to tyre pressure. When I bought it, the tyre pressure was around 15 psi. Handling was improved hugely by putting 22 and 24 front and rear respectively.
I had sort of accepted that the quality of handling was to be expected from a car of this age.
It seems to be very confusing:
People talk about ordering springs separately - different lbs front and back and then the shocks are different again. Are the Gaz shocks you talk about the same as AVOs?
I imagine once you have bought the springs and the shocks it’s a relatively straightforward job.
My last S3 had extremely hard springs and Avo's and handled fine.
Yes I had loads of options when I ordered my new springs and I have gone for 400lb on the front and 350lb on the back on the advice of Pete Humpreys,I could have gone lower or much higher for the same money. I think the springs were only £16.50 plus VAT each.
I am told that the Gaz shocks are at least as good, if not better than Avo, you can adjust the ride height (good idea on an S) and I think there are 32 settings on the dampers. Yes they come complete and bolt straight on.
ro,
Derek is sourcing a pair of these for my fronts.
It is a very straightforward job
to change the dampers/springs on the S.
The difficult bit is then correctly setting up ride height and damper settings.
Ride height requires a level surface and several adjustments to get it accurate.(Adjust one side and settle car, adjust other and resettle. Try again until both match your requirement.)
Dampers require adjustment and driving to find preferred settings.
Ideally you would have the corner weights set up having replaced the suspension to ensure the car is sat equally on each wheel. I am not sure if anyone has tried this with an S as the results might be frightening.

Derek is sourcing a pair of these for my fronts.
It is a very straightforward job
to change the dampers/springs on the S. The difficult bit is then correctly setting up ride height and damper settings.
Ride height requires a level surface and several adjustments to get it accurate.(Adjust one side and settle car, adjust other and resettle. Try again until both match your requirement.)
Dampers require adjustment and driving to find preferred settings.
Ideally you would have the corner weights set up having replaced the suspension to ensure the car is sat equally on each wheel. I am not sure if anyone has tried this with an S as the results might be frightening.

gefopsman said:
Ideally you would have the corner weights set up having replaced the suspension to ensure the car is sat equally on each wheel. I am not sure if anyone has tried this with an S as the results might be frightening.
You might find the "Normal" ride height thread interesting.
For what it's worth, yes I've corner weighted my S (several times) and in my opinion it's a waste of time for a road car. Set the ride height by setting the left and right spring seats the same, if you need to adjust the ride height always move both side up or down together by the same amount, and always *always* ignore the fact that the body looks too high or lop sided. They do, that's normal, and if you try to 'correct' it by tweaking the suspension all you'll do is throw the geometry out.
bugsy said:
I have gone for 400lb on the front and 350lb on the back on the advice of Pete Humpreys
I am told that the Gaz shocks are at least as good, if not better than Avo, you can adjust the ride height (good idea on an S) and I think there are 32 settings on the dampers. Yes they come complete and bolt straight on.
Sounds interesting LMK how you get on.
It's the same old story. Everytime I come onto PH I end up spending money!!
ro_torque said:
bugsy said:
I have gone for 400lb on the front and 350lb on the back on the advice of Pete Humpreys
I am told that the Gaz shocks are at least as good, if not better than Avo, you can adjust the ride height (good idea on an S) and I think there are 32 settings on the dampers. Yes they come complete and bolt straight on.
Sounds interesting LMK how you get on.It's the same old story. Everytime I come onto PH I end up spending money!!
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Ro
If your bonnet opens all the way and it doesn't bottom out all the time and you are happy with the ride, save your money and use it on petrol and enjoy the car
bugsy said:
Ro
If your bonnet opens all the way and it doesn't bottom out all the time and you are happy with the ride, save your money and use it on petrol and enjoy the car
Bonnet open all the way - Now Derek! you know that's not likely is it? I've made some small wooden "chocks" for bonnet opening - we have a gravel drive. And I think the ride could be better. The trouble is how much better? I have nothing to compare it with. I guess it's early days yet. I've only done about 500 miles in it.
Take on board GreenV8s advice corner weighting is a waste on a road car.....but
slap the new dampers on, set the ride hieght, 20 -30 min hoon around (handling will feel crap).... and then next day reset the ride hieght as everything will have settled down.
The car will then feel remarkably improved, however if like me still not really happy 4 wheel lazer alignment of the car will complete the tranformation.
I had a car that was unstable on the road at 120mph and could not go round corners..... now car will happly bomb down the straight at 120mph feeling stable.... and chuck it around any corner (in the dry) and you know the car is going where you want it ,not driffting wide, (ohhh some decent tyres help with last bit Goodyear Eagle F1s
)
slap the new dampers on, set the ride hieght, 20 -30 min hoon around (handling will feel crap).... and then next day reset the ride hieght as everything will have settled down.
The car will then feel remarkably improved, however if like me still not really happy 4 wheel lazer alignment of the car will complete the tranformation.
I had a car that was unstable on the road at 120mph and could not go round corners..... now car will happly bomb down the straight at 120mph feeling stable.... and chuck it around any corner (in the dry) and you know the car is going where you want it ,not driffting wide, (ohhh some decent tyres help with last bit Goodyear Eagle F1s
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