speed bumps and ramps are my enemies
Discussion
anyone else have trouble when it comes to speed bumps and ramps at mechanics garages? most places i take my s3c the mechanics cant get it on the ramps, they say its too low. Its standard ride height as far as im aware. The other day i completely buggered my exhaust on a speed bump at about 1-2mph its put hefty dents in both pipes and an exhaust mounting is rattling against something. It sounds awful. More work to do!
pantani201 said:
I had the same trouble until I uprated mine to Gaz shocks and new springs and re set the ride height. Though a particulally savage sleeping policeman caught me out the other day and I grounded the centre of the box.
Yes it would appear that the front is usually the problem, mine was catching the bottom of the down pipes and just 10mm up on the ride height did the trick.
There are a few savage ones out there
places to avoid Bugsy
The road from Woodhall to Chequers Woodhall... the first one as you leave Woodhall is ludicrous you need a 4X4 to get over it
New one installed by the Wrestlers pub in Hatfield, Bottomed the Griff on that yesterday
Staples Corner industrial estate by JVC... ripped the exhaust of the S... (opposite side of North Circular to Tower View)
places to avoid Bugsy
The road from Woodhall to Chequers Woodhall... the first one as you leave Woodhall is ludicrous you need a 4X4 to get over it
New one installed by the Wrestlers pub in Hatfield, Bottomed the Griff on that yesterday
Staples Corner industrial estate by JVC... ripped the exhaust of the S... (opposite side of North Circular to Tower View)
Ride height is adjusted by moving the platforms (the bits the springs sit on on the bottom) up or down. If you have adjustable platforms, they will look like a big nut that travels up and down a thread on the shock body. The adjuster (usually small knob - cue joke) on the body of the shock is for the damping. This will, in conjunction with the poundage of spring you have, make the ride harsher or softer. Hope that helps - try a search on 'springs' if you need further...
S3Swiss said:
Ride height is adjusted by moving the platforms (the bits the springs sit on on the bottom) up or down. If you have adjustable platforms, they will look like a big nut that travels up and down a thread on the shock body. The adjuster (usually small knob - cue joke) on the body of the shock is for the damping. This will, in conjunction with the poundage of spring you have, make the ride harsher or softer. Hope that helps - try a search on 'springs' if you need further...
Watch out because some of the shocks have grub screws to lock the adjusting nuts, these need undoing before you try and adjust the platform.
You also need a C spanner.
>> Edited by bugsy on Monday 2nd May 17:21
Mine hits the sleeping policemen where I live everytime I take the car out and they are the concrete block type. Nasty
When I had the new stainless exhaust built I had a skid plate welded along the big central box and the front pipes to protect it.
My ride height is fine (bonnet opens as it should) but I'm running on 40 profile 17" tyres and I may up these to 50's soon to gain more room underneath.
When I had the new stainless exhaust built I had a skid plate welded along the big central box and the front pipes to protect it.
My ride height is fine (bonnet opens as it should) but I'm running on 40 profile 17" tyres and I may up these to 50's soon to gain more room underneath.
Mine grinds even on some road cambers let alone speed humps!
My Daughter is studying the Driving Test theory and instruction DVD at the moment and it wisely suggests she looks as far ahead up the road as possible to see possible hazards before they become a problem.
Very good advice ...except I drive looking only 30 yards ahead and picking my way around the oncoming potholes and dropped manhole covers in an effort to keep my exhaust from grounding!
Fecking Kents Roads ...Come back the Romans!!!
My Daughter is studying the Driving Test theory and instruction DVD at the moment and it wisely suggests she looks as far ahead up the road as possible to see possible hazards before they become a problem.
Very good advice ...except I drive looking only 30 yards ahead and picking my way around the oncoming potholes and dropped manhole covers in an effort to keep my exhaust from grounding!
Fecking Kents Roads ...Come back the Romans!!!

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