Wiring diagram?
Discussion
OK, I'm out of my usual comfortable wedge territory with this one: a mate has just bought an S (E reg IIRC - 87/88 I suppose) and has a few problems that I can't help him with as I'm 120 miles away and have no diagrams to work from (and neither does he, obviously!).
Any chance someone could mail me one, or point to a URL etc.?
Cheers!
Ian
Any chance someone could mail me one, or point to a URL etc.?
Cheers!
Ian
Thanks 'git, but Soton beat you to it 
Cheers Neil, I suspect the problem is a faulty tacho. Bizarre starting problem whereby it'll start when cold but not when hot, no supply to the coil. As the ignition is fed through the tacho (or so it seems from the cct.) and giving the coil a direct feed allows it to start, the tacho is suspect.
Anyone come across similar grief with an S before?
Regards Ian
Cheers Neil, I suspect the problem is a faulty tacho. Bizarre starting problem whereby it'll start when cold but not when hot, no supply to the coil. As the ignition is fed through the tacho (or so it seems from the cct.) and giving the coil a direct feed allows it to start, the tacho is suspect.
Anyone come across similar grief with an S before?
Regards Ian
james280779 said:
i have that exact problem on mine at the moment also a 1987 e reg, its at rallytech, the guy there actually designed the engine and he's put it down to a shot warm-up regulator.
That was one of our initial thoughts, but I think he ruled it out by borrowing one off his other TVR
WEDG1E, I had the exact same problem with mine when I bought it as a non-runner. I found that there was a broken wire/bad connection/high resistance at the base of the fuse box. I cut the cable and bypassed the fuse box with a suitably rated inline fuse. I've never had a problem since. Don't let the fact that the Tacho is not reading make you think it is at fault as I did ! It seems to measure the changes incurrent flow though it rather than voltage pulses across the coil wrt earth as you would normally expect.
mrufcs1 said:
WEDG1E, I had the exact same problem with mine when I bought it as a non-runner. I found that there was a broken wire/bad connection/high resistance at the base of the fuse box. I cut the cable and bypassed the fuse box with a suitably rated inline fuse. I've never had a problem since. Don't let the fact that the Tacho is not reading make you think it is at fault as I did ! It seems to measure the changes incurrent flow though it rather than voltage pulses across the coil wrt earth as you would normally expect.
The tacho does work, just not if you take a 12v feed direct to the coil - which sort of makes sense by
your description.
Latest update is he has cleaned up a few connecions etc. and now the car will start OK and run fine. Leave it 10 mins and it won't start.
Lift the airflow meter flap to pump the fuel rails back up and it will.
Sounds to me like a u/s fuel accumulator or leaky non-return valve in the pump...
May also be fuel starvation ? The outlet of the tank has a very coarse filter in it which blocks up with rusty sludge from inside the tank. This starves the pump suction and so after a short time running the pump runs dry and the pressure drops ? Can you here the pump get noisey (not good for the pump by the way)? This also happened to me but tended to happen while driving though ? My experience of the warm up relay is that once started it doesn't do much at all ?
hey guys,
just picked mine up from garage and problems all sorted, mine was a combination of a dodgy alternator not recharging battery enough and therefore not having enough power to turn over at proper speed, a shot warm-up regulator, cold start injection system injecting all time, even when hot and dodgy wiring all over.
solved by disconnecting cold start ignition, new regulator and re-wiring of system. new battery and alternator to follow shortly.
I have driven her about 30 miles and its the best she's ever run. shes exactly how she should be and seem to run 5 times better then even when i first got her.
Rallytech definately knows his things
just picked mine up from garage and problems all sorted, mine was a combination of a dodgy alternator not recharging battery enough and therefore not having enough power to turn over at proper speed, a shot warm-up regulator, cold start injection system injecting all time, even when hot and dodgy wiring all over.
solved by disconnecting cold start ignition, new regulator and re-wiring of system. new battery and alternator to follow shortly.
I have driven her about 30 miles and its the best she's ever run. shes exactly how she should be and seem to run 5 times better then even when i first got her.
Rallytech definately knows his things
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