Bleedin collant
Discussion
In my continuous drive for improved running temperature (yes my caps are the "right" way round), I tried to bleed the system yesterday.
Following the bible, when cool removed the swirl pot cap and topped up to level just below the neck and ran the car for a couple of minutes with the heater on full blast. All that happen was it P***ed water all over the garage floor!!! When I gently revved the car the level dropped dramatically.
Is this right ????? Please help; I'm fed up of worrying every time I hit the slightest bit of traffic.:headache::headache::headache:
Following the bible, when cool removed the swirl pot cap and topped up to level just below the neck and ran the car for a couple of minutes with the heater on full blast. All that happen was it P***ed water all over the garage floor!!! When I gently revved the car the level dropped dramatically.
Is this right ????? Please help; I'm fed up of worrying every time I hit the slightest bit of traffic.:headache::headache::headache:
I ran the engine with the pressure cap off the swirl pot but the blanking cap still on the expansion tank (as the bible didn't mention removing it). the water was flowing out the top of the swirl pot. Reading the bible I wasn't expecting it to do this, I thought it'd bubble or something????
Ran it with both caps off last night....... P***ed water out the top of the swirl tank.
Alan I'll try your idea of the butterfly nut at the weekend.
I'm convinced it's an airlock, when you stop you can hear it bubbling away, whilst I know some will be down to the transfer back to the swirl pot from the expansion tank, I'm sure it's dragging air in.
Alan I'll try your idea of the butterfly nut at the weekend.
I'm convinced it's an airlock, when you stop you can hear it bubbling away, whilst I know some will be down to the transfer back to the swirl pot from the expansion tank, I'm sure it's dragging air in.
Belatedly ...
that's normal behaviour when the engine is hot. It happens because of the restriction across the standard radiator, the pressure in the top hose rises with revs. The level will normally drop 2-3 inches when you rev the engine and then climb again when the revs drop. If you get masses more than this then perhaps you have an air lock.
that's normal behaviour when the engine is hot. It happens because of the restriction across the standard radiator, the pressure in the top hose rises with revs. The level will normally drop 2-3 inches when you rev the engine and then climb again when the revs drop. If you get masses more than this then perhaps you have an air lock.
I have just flushed my coolant system, and had no problem bleeding it. Fill the system via the swirl tank, and once full, release the wing nut on the top left of the radiator. You have to wind the screw in, not out to open it, so don't force it the wrong way too hard.
Continue to fill until water is spurting out of the top of the rad, then tighten the wing nut. Top up the swirl tank to just below full. Run the engine with the heater on HOT, and top up the swirl tank, gently rev and top up until no more will go in.
Thats it. Put the pressure cap back on the swirl tank, and add a small amount of coolant into the header tank.
Go for a drive to get the engine up to temp, and check that the heater is working OK.
Top up header tank as necessary. You may find you get overflow from the header tank after a run until the fluid finds its natural level.
Hope this helps
Continue to fill until water is spurting out of the top of the rad, then tighten the wing nut. Top up the swirl tank to just below full. Run the engine with the heater on HOT, and top up the swirl tank, gently rev and top up until no more will go in.
Thats it. Put the pressure cap back on the swirl tank, and add a small amount of coolant into the header tank.
Go for a drive to get the engine up to temp, and check that the heater is working OK.
Top up header tank as necessary. You may find you get overflow from the header tank after a run until the fluid finds its natural level.
Hope this helps
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