Discussion
Blimey what a difference.
Gulielmi you are a genius.
I'm not supposed to post just yet because Steve wants to check the accuracy of my report but I have to tell you that this geezer knows what he is doing, without going into chapter and verse he has set my car up and found that 350lb to 400lb work well on the front and wait for it 250lb to 300lb on the back.
I know this sounds low on the back but with a proper Geo check,corner weighting and ride height setting,
the car no longer hops and skips round corners and is really chuckable.
There you go, I will write the report in full as a word document but that is the bare bones.
>> Edited by bugsy on Friday 15th July 06:57
Gulielmi you are a genius.
I'm not supposed to post just yet because Steve wants to check the accuracy of my report but I have to tell you that this geezer knows what he is doing, without going into chapter and verse he has set my car up and found that 350lb to 400lb work well on the front and wait for it 250lb to 300lb on the back.
I know this sounds low on the back but with a proper Geo check,corner weighting and ride height setting,
the car no longer hops and skips round corners and is really chuckable.
There you go, I will write the report in full as a word document but that is the bare bones.
>> Edited by bugsy on Friday 15th July 06:57
I can't post until Monday because Steve it at the races with the two Mazda cars he prepares.
What I can tell you is that they are pretty aware of the S and its rear suspension limitations, the senior fitter hill climbs an S2.
What we have ended up with is a compromise between a sharp handling front end that you can aim at corners and a softer rear that doesn't hop and skip when you hit a bump while cornering.
In your case Steve, the rear suspension is much easier to set up because it is a similar wishbone set up to the front and again SG has set up Griffs for racing, so he knows what works. However his initial request for a spring selection is again not quite what I expected, so this will be interesting.
>> Edited by bugsy on Friday 15th July 07:01
What I can tell you is that they are pretty aware of the S and its rear suspension limitations, the senior fitter hill climbs an S2.
What we have ended up with is a compromise between a sharp handling front end that you can aim at corners and a softer rear that doesn't hop and skip when you hit a bump while cornering.
In your case Steve, the rear suspension is much easier to set up because it is a similar wishbone set up to the front and again SG has set up Griffs for racing, so he knows what works. However his initial request for a spring selection is again not quite what I expected, so this will be interesting.
>> Edited by bugsy on Friday 15th July 07:01
Thanks for your assistance on the phone Derek and as I plan to change my set-up shortly I will opt for the 350/250 option thats seems suitable for the reasonable everyday road use that I need.
If I need to source the springs will be back to you directly.
One stupid question please...when adjusting the gaz dampers by twidling the knob at the bottom...you dont have to take them off the car do you?
I saw something about tipping them upside down to prime but assume this is only for fitting new.
You said I think try a higher setting which I interpret means turning clockwise?
Hope I can then get my ride height sorted again as I don't like it at the moment.
Cheers
If I need to source the springs will be back to you directly.
One stupid question please...when adjusting the gaz dampers by twidling the knob at the bottom...you dont have to take them off the car do you?
I saw something about tipping them upside down to prime but assume this is only for fitting new.
You said I think try a higher setting which I interpret means turning clockwise?
Hope I can then get my ride height sorted again as I don't like it at the moment.
Cheers
F908 Tim said:
Thanks for your assistance on the phone Derek and as I plan to change my set-up shortly I will opt for the 350/250 option thats seems suitable for the reasonable everyday road use that I need.
If I need to source the springs will be back to you directly.
One stupid question please...when adjusting the gaz dampers by twidling the knob at the bottom...you dont have to take them off the car do you?
I saw something about tipping them upside down to prime but assume this is only for fitting new.
You said I think try a higher setting which I interpret means turning clockwise?
Hope I can then get my ride height sorted again as I don't like it at the moment.
Cheers
No you don't have to take Gaz off the car, its clockwise for more damping and anti for less, they do self bleed so you don't have to run them much between setting sessions
On the ride height, I'm in at 160mm which is marginal because of local speed bumps but Tim, I really suggest that you get the ride height and geo set by somebody good, once you have changed the springs.
BTW on those spring settings I would start at 10 clicks on the front and 6 clicks on the back and work your way up
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