How to smarten this up?
Discussion
How long is a piece of string?
I would look at tidying up the various 'over complicated' ways TVR did things.
Move the coolant expansion bottle to be mounted on the 'swirlpot'. Swap it for a brass MGB / BLeyland one at the same time and you can colour code it. I have one spare if you're interested.
Trace back the wiring, check for bodge repairs / unnecessary connections, and remove redundat sections. You'd be surprised how much there is. Re-wire the headlight wiring loom to go through a plug and clip it neatly out of the way. This will improve lighting output as TVR undersized the wiring [they did this pretty much across all the wiring]. Move the battery to the boot and upgrade the wiring to a proper size (see the last sentence).
Swap the banana slot throttle body plate for a straight one. Replace the linkage and join the throttle cable and plate directly. Add a stop and decent return spring. Add pedal stop in the cabin too.
Renew all the worm drive clips for new stainless - replace small dia ones for fuel hose versions which seal much better.
Renew hoses and lines.
Get the manifolds and downpipes ceramic coated. Refit with the smaller 'ARP' bolts and consider using one stud per side to aid installation.
Consider stripping out the cold air feeds to the center console vents. The big lengths of flexible hosing that flap over the engine. Joe did a how-to guide adding slim vents above the wheel arches to maintain fresh air supply. Other options are available.
Inlet manifolds can be vapout blasted - a bit of grinding to match up the ports can be done at the same time - then some ACF-50 will keep them clean.
Re-route and clip down HT leads. Move coil over to the bulk head - takes it away from the heat of the engine.
Take off the alternator bracket and drill some speed holes. Paint and refit. Fit a turnbuckle adjuster to make tensioning the belt a doddle.
That little lot should kep you busy for the next couple of weeks. Check back in when you're done
I would look at tidying up the various 'over complicated' ways TVR did things.
Move the coolant expansion bottle to be mounted on the 'swirlpot'. Swap it for a brass MGB / BLeyland one at the same time and you can colour code it. I have one spare if you're interested.
Trace back the wiring, check for bodge repairs / unnecessary connections, and remove redundat sections. You'd be surprised how much there is. Re-wire the headlight wiring loom to go through a plug and clip it neatly out of the way. This will improve lighting output as TVR undersized the wiring [they did this pretty much across all the wiring]. Move the battery to the boot and upgrade the wiring to a proper size (see the last sentence).
Swap the banana slot throttle body plate for a straight one. Replace the linkage and join the throttle cable and plate directly. Add a stop and decent return spring. Add pedal stop in the cabin too.
Renew all the worm drive clips for new stainless - replace small dia ones for fuel hose versions which seal much better.
Renew hoses and lines.
Get the manifolds and downpipes ceramic coated. Refit with the smaller 'ARP' bolts and consider using one stud per side to aid installation.
Consider stripping out the cold air feeds to the center console vents. The big lengths of flexible hosing that flap over the engine. Joe did a how-to guide adding slim vents above the wheel arches to maintain fresh air supply. Other options are available.
Inlet manifolds can be vapout blasted - a bit of grinding to match up the ports can be done at the same time - then some ACF-50 will keep them clean.
Re-route and clip down HT leads. Move coil over to the bulk head - takes it away from the heat of the engine.
Take off the alternator bracket and drill some speed holes. Paint and refit. Fit a turnbuckle adjuster to make tensioning the belt a doddle.
That little lot should kep you busy for the next couple of weeks. Check back in when you're done
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