Discussion
Hi,
I'm experiencing clutch problems on my S1. The clutch is constantly losing pressure. I think there's fluid leaking into the footwell along the pedal.
I've topped the reservoir up a couple of times to regain the pressure, but when I top it up and leave the car still, it looses fluid aswell.
Is this the master cylinder that's leaking or could this be something else? Can someone describe how to get acces to the cylinder?
Thanks !! look forward to your reactions!
Niels
S1`
Netherlands
I'm experiencing clutch problems on my S1. The clutch is constantly losing pressure. I think there's fluid leaking into the footwell along the pedal.
I've topped the reservoir up a couple of times to regain the pressure, but when I top it up and leave the car still, it looses fluid aswell.
Is this the master cylinder that's leaking or could this be something else? Can someone describe how to get acces to the cylinder?
Thanks !! look forward to your reactions!
Niels
S1`
Netherlands
Hi Niels
Access is in the foorwell. The master cylinder is held to the bulkhead with two bolts and to the pedal with a clevis and split pin. Then there's the pipe from the master cylinder down to the slave.
You'll need someone to hold the spanner on the nuts in the footwell or jam one in place while you under the bolts in the engine bay.
The split pin just straighten it out and pull it out from the clevis pin with a pair of pliers, then you can remove the clevis pin from the pedal. It might need a bit of lubrication and persuading if it's gone a bit rusty.
Then it's a case of fixing the master cylinder. You can either get a cylinder repair kit or buy a whole new cylinder. I think the repair kits are about £10 whereas a new cylinder will set you back £40-£50.
The kit has all the new seals but you need to check that the bore of the cylinder and the piston itself are not scored or rusty. Changing the seals is very easy and takes about 30 minutes once you've got the master cylinder out. Just lubricate everything with new clutch fluid when you are assembling and do it somewhere reasonably clean. Make a note of the seals before you remove them so that you fit the new ones the same way round.
I replaced the seals about 3 years ago on mine and I've had no problems since. You might want to do the slave cylinder as well whilst you've got the system out if the seals in the master have gone then the ones in the slave will not be far behind if they've not been changed recently.
Fit a new split pin when re-connecting the master cylinder to the pedal.
Edited to add
Seal kits are available from Lucas service centres and from Rimmer Bros www.rimmerbros.co.uk/
Part numbers are
Clutch master cylinder seal kit - Lucas SP 2102
Clutch slave cylinder seal kit - Lucas SP 4190
Take care with the master to slave cylinder pipe because it's not one you'll be able to pick up from a non-TVR supplier, the unions are odd sizes. Automec and, I beleieve Tower View, stock them though.
Regards
Colin
>> Edited by Colin Blues2 on Monday 14th November 12:47
Access is in the foorwell. The master cylinder is held to the bulkhead with two bolts and to the pedal with a clevis and split pin. Then there's the pipe from the master cylinder down to the slave.
You'll need someone to hold the spanner on the nuts in the footwell or jam one in place while you under the bolts in the engine bay.
The split pin just straighten it out and pull it out from the clevis pin with a pair of pliers, then you can remove the clevis pin from the pedal. It might need a bit of lubrication and persuading if it's gone a bit rusty.
Then it's a case of fixing the master cylinder. You can either get a cylinder repair kit or buy a whole new cylinder. I think the repair kits are about £10 whereas a new cylinder will set you back £40-£50.
The kit has all the new seals but you need to check that the bore of the cylinder and the piston itself are not scored or rusty. Changing the seals is very easy and takes about 30 minutes once you've got the master cylinder out. Just lubricate everything with new clutch fluid when you are assembling and do it somewhere reasonably clean. Make a note of the seals before you remove them so that you fit the new ones the same way round.
I replaced the seals about 3 years ago on mine and I've had no problems since. You might want to do the slave cylinder as well whilst you've got the system out if the seals in the master have gone then the ones in the slave will not be far behind if they've not been changed recently.
Fit a new split pin when re-connecting the master cylinder to the pedal.
Edited to add
Seal kits are available from Lucas service centres and from Rimmer Bros www.rimmerbros.co.uk/
Part numbers are
Clutch master cylinder seal kit - Lucas SP 2102
Clutch slave cylinder seal kit - Lucas SP 4190
Take care with the master to slave cylinder pipe because it's not one you'll be able to pick up from a non-TVR supplier, the unions are odd sizes. Automec and, I beleieve Tower View, stock them though.
Regards
Colin
>> Edited by Colin Blues2 on Monday 14th November 12:47
I have recently replaced the seals in the master cylinder and replaced the slave cylinder. Nothing really difficult about either job, but the pipe connecting the two cylinders on my S2 is copper. It had probably been there from new and was very tight to undo, so be careful on the copper union as it may round off, assuming your pipe is also copper, good luck.
steve j
steve j
I have the same problem with my S2 and was quoted 56 GBP for a LDV Sherpa slave and I think the master is from a Land Rover SIII or Defender as cheap as 11 GBP. I personally wouldn't mess around with seal kits they are a pain in the aris, dont last and often dont solve the problem.
If I am wrong about the Master I should know soon, as I am about to fit one.
Allan
If I am wrong about the Master I should know soon, as I am about to fit one.
Allan
Niels
I may be too late to be any help, but if you have not done the job yet here are a few comments that might help, particularly if you have never done this job before. I did my seals earlier this week. So far all is working well.
Taking off the circlip under the domed rubber seal at the pedal end, should release the plunger mechanism inside, but sometimes it sticks and has to be persuaded to come out. Once you have got the plunger bit out you have to lever up a little tab partly hidden by the spring so the whole mechanism comes apart. Keep a grip on everything so you can see what goes back where, including a fiddly little spring washer beneath the seal at the top end.
There may be residue and bits of rubber inside the body casting, which you need to clean out.
I avoided having to bleed the system at the slave cylinder, which is difficult to get at. When I re-fitted the pipe from the slave to the master, I only gave the nut about one full turn. I then filled the reservoir, and my wife held the clutch pedal down while I tightened the nut. Air came out through the threads as she pushed the pedal down which bled the system. So far!
I would say, if you have to bleed the system properly at the slave (which probably involves jacks/ramps/stands so you can get your head and arms underneath),it would be worth replacing the slave seals while you are there.
Mark Pickering
I may be too late to be any help, but if you have not done the job yet here are a few comments that might help, particularly if you have never done this job before. I did my seals earlier this week. So far all is working well.
Taking off the circlip under the domed rubber seal at the pedal end, should release the plunger mechanism inside, but sometimes it sticks and has to be persuaded to come out. Once you have got the plunger bit out you have to lever up a little tab partly hidden by the spring so the whole mechanism comes apart. Keep a grip on everything so you can see what goes back where, including a fiddly little spring washer beneath the seal at the top end.
There may be residue and bits of rubber inside the body casting, which you need to clean out.
I avoided having to bleed the system at the slave cylinder, which is difficult to get at. When I re-fitted the pipe from the slave to the master, I only gave the nut about one full turn. I then filled the reservoir, and my wife held the clutch pedal down while I tightened the nut. Air came out through the threads as she pushed the pedal down which bled the system. So far!
I would say, if you have to bleed the system properly at the slave (which probably involves jacks/ramps/stands so you can get your head and arms underneath),it would be worth replacing the slave seals while you are there.
Mark Pickering
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