Discussion
I collected my V8S today - a real car at last! Thanks Duncan.
What a fantastic way to travel! The noise, the vibration, the feeling of being part of the car, the feeling in your stomach when the exhaust note hits a certain frequency!
I've got a question for all you experienced V8s owners out there. Some times selecting reverse is very difficult and is accompanied by a loud clang. I've worked out that if I select third then fourth and then go for reverse it's much less dramatic and sometimes even smooth! Is this normal or a portent of something expensive? The rest of the changes seem OK with only first being a little stiff from stationary - selecting second then first seems to be the answer.
Now all I need to do is sell my bike to pay for it!
Joe
What a fantastic way to travel! The noise, the vibration, the feeling of being part of the car, the feeling in your stomach when the exhaust note hits a certain frequency!
I've got a question for all you experienced V8s owners out there. Some times selecting reverse is very difficult and is accompanied by a loud clang. I've worked out that if I select third then fourth and then go for reverse it's much less dramatic and sometimes even smooth! Is this normal or a portent of something expensive? The rest of the changes seem OK with only first being a little stiff from stationary - selecting second then first seems to be the answer.
Now all I need to do is sell my bike to pay for it!
Joe
My V8S gearbox refuses to go into 1st unless at a complete standstill .. even double de-clutching to bring the synchro speeds up doesn't help.
Going into reverse is also a bit hit and miss. I hope I never enter an autotest!! lmao.
it's been like this for 107000 miles so I don't think you have anything to worry about!
Peter .. how many miles has yours done now? I thought it was even more than mine ...?
Going into reverse is also a bit hit and miss. I hope I never enter an autotest!! lmao.
it's been like this for 107000 miles so I don't think you have anything to worry about!
Peter .. how many miles has yours done now? I thought it was even more than mine ...?
trackcar said:
Peter .. how many miles has yours done now? I thought it was even more than mine ...?
Which bit? It's a bit of a "grandfather's axe"! Most of the chassis, bodywork and various bits of carpet have done about 170K miles, but the engine, clutch, gearbox, diff, half shafts, brakes etc have all been replaced or rebuilt several times. I think the average time between gearbox rebuilds is about 50K miles and typically on mine it is the synchros that go first, the gears and bearings seem pretty durable despite the extra power levels and, lets be honest, the abuse it gets from me. I do everything I can to avoid shock loads on the transmission and I like to think this helps, but sometimes when I need a new gear I need it right now whether the synchros are ready or not, and I guess this takes its toll. While the engine was out for the recent low compression rebuild Ken Tomlinson rebuilt the box for me, I don't know how long it will cope with the thick end of 400 lb-ft but I reckon having it built by the man himself gives me the best possible chance. Fingers crossed!
>> Edited by GreenV8S on Saturday 25th February 11:50
Thanks to all who replied and also a big thanks to Rob Ingleby (Find a Sports Car) who did a pre-purchase inspection for me - money well spent and I can recommend him unreservedly.
My reverse selection seems to be OK on short journeys today with the main fun & games happening after the long run yesterday. Could this be something to do with the oil? Obvously it gets thinner as it gets hotter and there is less drag on the spinning parts. Does this make sense? Has anyone ever tried a multigrade gear oil?
What's the quickest way to get at the oil filler/level plug?
I've also got one oft he WWIW2 speedos. Looking at the threads it doesn't seem like it's worth the effort to rectify. Thoughts anyone?
My reverse selection seems to be OK on short journeys today with the main fun & games happening after the long run yesterday. Could this be something to do with the oil? Obvously it gets thinner as it gets hotter and there is less drag on the spinning parts. Does this make sense? Has anyone ever tried a multigrade gear oil?
What's the quickest way to get at the oil filler/level plug?
I've also got one oft he WWIW2 speedos. Looking at the threads it doesn't seem like it's worth the effort to rectify. Thoughts anyone?
If selecting gears while stationary is getting worse as things get hotter after a long journey, you could have weak hydraulics. That was the problem on my V8S recently. With new hydraulics the clutch then disengaged properly. It is still very lightly graunchy getting reverse, in line with the "TADTS" comments. However, it is only slight and no different from hot to cold running temperatures. In my case, the master cylinder was weeping and a repair kit sorted it out.
You should also look at the slave cylinder and check the operating arm is not cracked/bent/broken.
JW
You should also look at the slave cylinder and check the operating arm is not cracked/bent/broken.
JW
joe.walsh said:
What's the quickest way to get at the oil filler/level plug?
Unless your wafer thin
, the quickest way would be to take it somewhere with a four-post lift (unless you know anyone with a drive-over pit!). Failing that, jack it up and put it on axle stands. The only drawback of this is that it's not always possible to get the car level (depending on how flat your drive/road is or how many axle stands you have!), which it should ideally be to check/fill the gearbox oil to the correct level. you don't need to drop the exhaust to get at the drain or filler plugs on the lt77 box.
simplest way to fill it up is with a 2m length of 10mm hose from the filler hole out into the engine bay with a funnel on the end. not a difficult job just a bit of a fuss as it takes a while for all the oil to run through such a small pipe - no mess though .
reb
simplest way to fill it up is with a 2m length of 10mm hose from the filler hole out into the engine bay with a funnel on the end. not a difficult job just a bit of a fuss as it takes a while for all the oil to run through such a small pipe - no mess though .
reb
HarryW said:
From what I remember, you should drop the exhaust to get proper access, even more so if you intend to drain it, don't want it to be smoking for the next 300 miles . Dropping the exhuast isn't as bad as it first seems btw.
If you do go down this route remember to stick some grease on your nipples at the same time, this is much easier when the exhaust is out the way.
Personally I use a hand pump and a long bendy piece of pipe to top-up with the exhaust in place.
BTW I don't have any real problems with selecting 1st, or reverse. I just have to make sure that the clutch is pushed hard into the floor as I think the clutch does drag slightly. A good tip my Dad used to use on his Griff is to select reverse before starting the car (when you are in a parking space / garage), this save the syncros any ware.
Z
this gearbox thing is odd isn't it
mine selects all gears perfectly except 4th which needs smooth action
i've overhauled the remote and drained the box with decent castrol sms-s fluid
this made the gearbox really sweet but didn't help the shift to 4th
funny thing is i've run lt77 boxes in loads of other cars and never had a problem
very strange
reb
mine selects all gears perfectly except 4th which needs smooth action
i've overhauled the remote and drained the box with decent castrol sms-s fluid
this made the gearbox really sweet but didn't help the shift to 4th
funny thing is i've run lt77 boxes in loads of other cars and never had a problem
very strange
reb
honourablepickle said:
this gearbox thing is odd isn't it
mine selects all gears perfectly except 4th which needs smooth action
i've overhauled the remote and drained the box with decent castrol sms-s fluid
this made the gearbox really sweet but didn't help the shift to 4th
funny thing is i've run lt77 boxes in loads of other cars and never had a problem
very strange
reb
I was recommended ATF for my box and I have never had a problem. Is your 4th gear syncro a little worn perhaps. It cannot be a linkage problem as the stick is connected directly into the box.
Thinking about it, my box is always a little slow until the oil gets warm. I take my changes slowly and with care until it is up to temp.
I wonder if because of higher rpm and torque loads the boxes are suffering from abuse in TVR format not experinced in a standard Rover application. This would lead to more heat being generated in the box, thinner oil and more ware.
Z
hi regarding the remote
you can take the remote off with the box in place
i cut the tunnel back a bit and made up a panel to make access simpler
the remote is similar to the old freight rover/sherpa units - only difference being it's an ali casting
i think this was fitted onto jags at one time
you can buy nylon mounting bobbins and stainless spacers from rimmers (i got mine off ebay from some guy in canada who makes them on a cnc - i think they were about £20)
the plastic bearing the stick fits into was a bit of a fuss to obtain as it was a limited run by an american bearing company but the part number is on it and the maker sent me one in the post for about £10
one tip - don't adjust the spring tension bolts either side by more than a couple of mill to take out the slack or you will spend hours trying to align the rest position of the stick
as for is the syncro worn - the box has done 45k miles so one would think not - in reality i'ts the only thing i can think of that might cause the problem - as it's still possible to shift ok all be it not perfect,i can't be bothered to rip the box out and have a look - i'll just use it till it goes wrong then fit a recon one
does the tvr put more strain on the gearbox than the rover lump - perhaps a bit but then my tr8 had the same 4 litre motor in it and that was fine
the borg warner t5 box fitted to the chimera etc is not much better than the lt77 and had lots of problems with reverse etc - they were fitted to cosworth sierras etc and had problems in those too
the solution is to fit a better box like the toyota units which shift like butter and last forever but then you have all the fuss of adapter plates ,different prop etc probable cost £2k in bits and 60 hrs work
worth it ? - nope
reb
you can take the remote off with the box in place
i cut the tunnel back a bit and made up a panel to make access simpler
the remote is similar to the old freight rover/sherpa units - only difference being it's an ali casting
i think this was fitted onto jags at one time
you can buy nylon mounting bobbins and stainless spacers from rimmers (i got mine off ebay from some guy in canada who makes them on a cnc - i think they were about £20)
the plastic bearing the stick fits into was a bit of a fuss to obtain as it was a limited run by an american bearing company but the part number is on it and the maker sent me one in the post for about £10
one tip - don't adjust the spring tension bolts either side by more than a couple of mill to take out the slack or you will spend hours trying to align the rest position of the stick
as for is the syncro worn - the box has done 45k miles so one would think not - in reality i'ts the only thing i can think of that might cause the problem - as it's still possible to shift ok all be it not perfect,i can't be bothered to rip the box out and have a look - i'll just use it till it goes wrong then fit a recon one
does the tvr put more strain on the gearbox than the rover lump - perhaps a bit but then my tr8 had the same 4 litre motor in it and that was fine
the borg warner t5 box fitted to the chimera etc is not much better than the lt77 and had lots of problems with reverse etc - they were fitted to cosworth sierras etc and had problems in those too
the solution is to fit a better box like the toyota units which shift like butter and last forever but then you have all the fuss of adapter plates ,different prop etc probable cost £2k in bits and 60 hrs work
worth it ? - nope
reb
Thanks for the info reb.
Now I know it can be done perhaps I'll have look into reconditioning my remote. My gearbox is fine, but sometimes when enthusiastically changing from second to third I miss the gate and end up trying to fing a non-existant gap between the third and fifth positions.
Andrew.
Now I know it can be done perhaps I'll have look into reconditioning my remote. My gearbox is fine, but sometimes when enthusiastically changing from second to third I miss the gate and end up trying to fing a non-existant gap between the third and fifth positions.
Andrew.
DarkMatter said:
Thanks for the info reb.
Now I know it can be done perhaps I'll have look into reconditioning my remote. My gearbox is fine, but sometimes when enthusiastically changing from second to third I miss the gate and end up trying to fing a non-existant gap between the third and fifth positions.
Andrew.
Thats about the worse thing that happens to mine 
. More so when the box is cool, normally plump for 4th at that point . I do not seem to suffer the reverse crunch that most seem to have (all RV8's not just S's) maybe it's the relatively new clutch I don't know
.The LT77 'box is affected by temp as well as oil viscocity used. If you are storing the car outside Joe, then the gear selection will be difficult and speedo pick up slow at first. However the box already has ATF in it to help things out. (Check the Offords service invoice.)
When the warmer weather comes you will find both of these improve dramatically.
Duncan
When the warmer weather comes you will find both of these improve dramatically.
Duncan
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