Discussion
How many of you guys have had problems with overheating?
Went for a drive today and notice after around 12 miles stream coming out for the bonnet, the Rad fan was on as well. Filled up with water, done the bleeding on the Rad then went for another drive after 5 miles does it again, I was travelling at a steady 70mph.
Have to say that the head gaskets have been replaced. So my first thought it is this, however checked the oil - no water. No water or steam coming out of the exhaust. No miss firing. Ticks over very smoothly.
I have taken the thermostat out, still the same.
How much water is suppose to be in the swirl tank to allow expansion?
Before I send it to my local Mechanic any of you guys have futher thoughts?
Went for a drive today and notice after around 12 miles stream coming out for the bonnet, the Rad fan was on as well. Filled up with water, done the bleeding on the Rad then went for another drive after 5 miles does it again, I was travelling at a steady 70mph.
Have to say that the head gaskets have been replaced. So my first thought it is this, however checked the oil - no water. No water or steam coming out of the exhaust. No miss firing. Ticks over very smoothly.
I have taken the thermostat out, still the same.
How much water is suppose to be in the swirl tank to allow expansion?
Before I send it to my local Mechanic any of you guys have futher thoughts?
All the pipes feel hot, opened the bleed valve on the rad until water came out. One thing I did was leave the Swirl cap off to see what happens, found that after a minute or so, water would shoot out like a the water Geyser.
The more I read about the problem the more it looks like to be a faulty head gasket..
The more I read about the problem the more it looks like to be a faulty head gasket..
When the engine is warmed up have you checked how firm the hoses are, is the steam/water coming from the pressure cap on the swirl pot? If it is it sounds as though the cooling system is over pressured, normally caused by a faulty head gasket. It leaks across the gasket from a cylinder to a waterway and the compression leak goes into the cooling system. Don`t mean to sound disrespectful, have you tightened the head bolts to the correct torque settings.
Evening,
Just my tuppence worth but this could be an air lock. Until recently I had a MK1 Escort Mexico into which I had transplanted a 16V XE Vauxhall engine. On the first visit to the rolling road, the car started to overheat and water poured out of the rad' overflow. (My car wasn't fitted with an expansion tank for reference). All of the hoses got hot and were firm but the water could be heard boiling in the block..... Every time we refilled the rad it would be okay for 10-15 seconds and then we'd get a geyser of water from the rad. The ultimate remedy was to remove the top hose from the rad with the engine running, this had high pressure steam coming out of it at this point !! We continued to fill the rad until water spewed from the rad hose, we then reconnected and topped up the rad'. Job done, no more overheating.....
Bear in mind the bleed valve on an S series rad isn't at the highest point of the cooling system making it about as useful as a chocolate teapot.......
Hope this helps,
IanM
Just my tuppence worth but this could be an air lock. Until recently I had a MK1 Escort Mexico into which I had transplanted a 16V XE Vauxhall engine. On the first visit to the rolling road, the car started to overheat and water poured out of the rad' overflow. (My car wasn't fitted with an expansion tank for reference). All of the hoses got hot and were firm but the water could be heard boiling in the block..... Every time we refilled the rad it would be okay for 10-15 seconds and then we'd get a geyser of water from the rad. The ultimate remedy was to remove the top hose from the rad with the engine running, this had high pressure steam coming out of it at this point !! We continued to fill the rad until water spewed from the rad hose, we then reconnected and topped up the rad'. Job done, no more overheating.....
Bear in mind the bleed valve on an S series rad isn't at the highest point of the cooling system making it about as useful as a chocolate teapot.......
Hope this helps,
IanM
I replaced the Swirl cap for a new one to see what happens (13Lb).
The water temp seem to stay at a constant temp, apart from the temp gauge is a bit screwed the fan came on Ok. However the system seems to be pressurized too much – lost a large amount of water into the expansion tank in a short distance.
The car is going into the garage to be looked at. Not sure if it is me becoming paranoid, so too be safe for Le Man it's going the garage to be looked at.
The water temp seem to stay at a constant temp, apart from the temp gauge is a bit screwed the fan came on Ok. However the system seems to be pressurized too much – lost a large amount of water into the expansion tank in a short distance.
The car is going into the garage to be looked at. Not sure if it is me becoming paranoid, so too be safe for Le Man it's going the garage to be looked at.
I would guess the radiator is not completly filled. You have to remove and fill from top radiator hose connection, otherwise you will get an airlock and have the problems you discribe.
If the engine runs smoothly, and there is no imulsified oil in the oil filler cap or the cooling system, then the chances are the head gaskets are ok. Keep on ovwerheatin it, and that will be another matter. Does you water temperature guage work?
If the engine runs smoothly, and there is no imulsified oil in the oil filler cap or the cooling system, then the chances are the head gaskets are ok. Keep on ovwerheatin it, and that will be another matter. Does you water temperature guage work?
One hell of a strange gauge, I thought it was a rev counter on one point 
. The gauge would show up to around 80 deg c then the needle would drop, almost at the same time as the thermostat opening. Seems like the pressure would drop and the gauge was not immersed in the water! It has only been since I've changed the Cap that I'm getting a constant reading.
. The gauge would show up to around 80 deg c then the needle would drop, almost at the same time as the thermostat opening. Seems like the pressure would drop and the gauge was not immersed in the water! It has only been since I've changed the Cap that I'm getting a constant reading. Edited by mbracing on Sunday 4th June 17:09
Cylinder No 5 was passing water but only when the car was revving over 2000rpm. When the car was on tick over it ran fine, the fan was switching on/off without any overheating or pressurisation. This was why it was hard to diagnose. I'm getting both heads skimmed by 0.20mm to be safe.
So hopefully by Friday I should know if it's looking good for Le Man..
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