Bonnet adjustment
Discussion
Hi
ust realised that the reason I have two bumps in my bonnet of my 1990 S3 above the battery is that the bonnet adjustment has dropped on the driver's side and the bonnet is sitting on the battery. Steve Heath's bible seems to say it's hard to get bonnet alignment right. Anyone done this/any golden nuggets of advice before starting?
Chris
ust realised that the reason I have two bumps in my bonnet of my 1990 S3 above the battery is that the bonnet adjustment has dropped on the driver's side and the bonnet is sitting on the battery. Steve Heath's bible seems to say it's hard to get bonnet alignment right. Anyone done this/any golden nuggets of advice before starting?
Chris
Hi Chris
I would make sure that the hinge bolts, nuts and brackets are all in good nick. mine were wobbling all over the shop due to wear and missing bits so I could not adjust mine until I replaced the knackered stuff. if yours are OK but just loose you might get away with just tightening them up.
If everything is in good nick then loosen all of the nuts and bolts at both hinges, support the nose at the front with a wooden blocks (use carpet between the nose and wood)set it slightly high to allow for settling, then move the hinge bolts to the correct position (with bonnet closed, gaps should be even all round)and tighten, adjust the eye bolt and tighten up. remove the wooden blocks, ensure bonnet releases OK, swear loudly and repeat process until swearing is not required. Before you start, I would recommend you jack the front end up place axle stands under the chassis and remove the front wheels for better access to the hinges.
good luck
I would make sure that the hinge bolts, nuts and brackets are all in good nick. mine were wobbling all over the shop due to wear and missing bits so I could not adjust mine until I replaced the knackered stuff. if yours are OK but just loose you might get away with just tightening them up.
If everything is in good nick then loosen all of the nuts and bolts at both hinges, support the nose at the front with a wooden blocks (use carpet between the nose and wood)set it slightly high to allow for settling, then move the hinge bolts to the correct position (with bonnet closed, gaps should be even all round)and tighten, adjust the eye bolt and tighten up. remove the wooden blocks, ensure bonnet releases OK, swear loudly and repeat process until swearing is not required. Before you start, I would recommend you jack the front end up place axle stands under the chassis and remove the front wheels for better access to the hinges.
good luck
Did mine with the wheels on and removed the inner wings to get better access, otherwise pretty much per Kevins advice above.
One good tip I picked up on a search of this forum was to remove the bonnet pins when doing the alignment, bit of a pig to get back on mind. You also need space to stand back and sight the gaps and alignment with the body, did mine in the garage last time and wasn't really happy with the result.
The other tip I picked up here was to put masking tape over the latches to help line up the pins when you put them back in. Tie the release handle open, cord thru the steering wheel and tied to the gear lever. Tape over the latches, dirty finger to highlight the opening, pins in and nipped up. Gently lower the bonnet to check engagement of pins and adjust as necessary, took a few tries to get that right. Tighten up pins, job done.
Have fun.
One good tip I picked up on a search of this forum was to remove the bonnet pins when doing the alignment, bit of a pig to get back on mind. You also need space to stand back and sight the gaps and alignment with the body, did mine in the garage last time and wasn't really happy with the result.
The other tip I picked up here was to put masking tape over the latches to help line up the pins when you put them back in. Tie the release handle open, cord thru the steering wheel and tied to the gear lever. Tape over the latches, dirty finger to highlight the opening, pins in and nipped up. Gently lower the bonnet to check engagement of pins and adjust as necessary, took a few tries to get that right. Tighten up pins, job done.
Have fun.
If mine was anything to go by I would check the 2 X 12mm setscrews that act as Hinges (Nasty),mine were really badly worn, not from opening and closing ,but from chattering.Also it may be worth taking the metal blocks out of the chassis and cleaning up and greasing the contact area they have on the chassis this will make it easier to make small adjustments.I have welded plates top and bottom on mine with a hole through and a 6mm nut welded on,this has a bolt and locknut on as an adjuster.I lost patience with the original set up and renewed it all using rose joints as hinges,which may sound OTT but they were only £11 a pair delivered, are maintainance free, and have no play at all. I will email you (or anyone else) details and pics if your interested.
I may as well put them on here as they are relevant, I have also put on a photo of the new sections to weld on the chassis.The Rose joints came from McGill Motorsports via ebay
http://feedback.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISA
or you can contact them on 01592 655428, I paid £5.00 ea plus 50p ea postage.I also bought 4 HT 12mm Setcrews and 4 shakeproof 12mm nuts (exhaust union nuts are plated and quite good)to use either side of the joint centre to adjust it sideways and to locate its position.
Wrt the chassis tube part, its easy to weld a plate each end with a 6mm not above and below the internal steel block, put a 6mm setscrew in these to adjust up or down,tighten up main nuts & bolts, then remove 6mm screws so hole acts as drain
Forgot to say ,the Rosejonts are 12mm Female right hand thread,screw the bolt into them really tight before sawing head off it will save taking up precious space with an extra locknut as the distance from the pivot centre to the end of the female housing is quite long,it may also be necessary to reverse the flat plates (on the bonnet) with the tube on so that the tube sits further forward,the tube is not the full width of the plate,see the red one in the background in the picture above.
http://feedback.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISA
or you can contact them on 01592 655428, I paid £5.00 ea plus 50p ea postage.I also bought 4 HT 12mm Setcrews and 4 shakeproof 12mm nuts (exhaust union nuts are plated and quite good)to use either side of the joint centre to adjust it sideways and to locate its position.
Wrt the chassis tube part, its easy to weld a plate each end with a 6mm not above and below the internal steel block, put a 6mm setscrew in these to adjust up or down,tighten up main nuts & bolts, then remove 6mm screws so hole acts as drain
Forgot to say ,the Rosejonts are 12mm Female right hand thread,screw the bolt into them really tight before sawing head off it will save taking up precious space with an extra locknut as the distance from the pivot centre to the end of the female housing is quite long,it may also be necessary to reverse the flat plates (on the bonnet) with the tube on so that the tube sits further forward,the tube is not the full width of the plate,see the red one in the background in the picture above.
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Saturday 24th February 19:23
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Saturday 24th February 19:26
Well yes, I'd be interested in seeing the rose joint idea; that sounds a bit slick to me, although I have overcome the immediate problem today. Mail me pictures?
It was raining this morning, so I bought a gazebo to put over me and the car while working. Then the sun came out. I am thinking of it as an investment....
So, jacked up drivers side only, took wheel off, found both bolts holding the hinge onto the chassis slightly loose, slacked 'em off, jacked up under the front of the bonnet (plywood to protect glassfibre) tightened bolts up, wheel back on, adjust and tightened up loose bonnet pin, shut bonnet first time shut lines equal on both sides of car. Absolutely no swearing involved, and the wheel doesn't foul the wheelarch on full lock any more either!! Am I amazed or what??
Thanks for the advice guys,
Chris
It was raining this morning, so I bought a gazebo to put over me and the car while working. Then the sun came out. I am thinking of it as an investment....
So, jacked up drivers side only, took wheel off, found both bolts holding the hinge onto the chassis slightly loose, slacked 'em off, jacked up under the front of the bonnet (plywood to protect glassfibre) tightened bolts up, wheel back on, adjust and tightened up loose bonnet pin, shut bonnet first time shut lines equal on both sides of car. Absolutely no swearing involved, and the wheel doesn't foul the wheelarch on full lock any more either!! Am I amazed or what??
Thanks for the advice guys,
Chris
Sorry I cant send Emails??????
I get a message saying "OOPS Sorry you dont have permission to send emails" Whats that all about???????
Anyway we must have overlapped as the pics are on here now.
If anyone understands the permission to email bit please let me know as Ive never had that message before.
I get a message saying "OOPS Sorry you dont have permission to send emails" Whats that all about???????
Anyway we must have overlapped as the pics are on here now.
If anyone understands the permission to email bit please let me know as Ive never had that message before.
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