Brake unions Metric or Imperial?
Discussion
As I am going to do a bit of work on the brake lines soon I need to get some unions problem is I dont know wether they are metric or imperial (1989 S1.5) I want make the new pipes up before I take the old ones off to reduce off road time, has anyone any experience of making them up ie what sizes do I need to buy.
ah! my new specialist subject!
I have just changed both rear pistons + short lines & shoes, master cylinder & front callipers + green pads& new discs, the new callipers & master cylinder are definately 10mm thread but the old master cylinder had 10mm & i think 14mm, which meant i needed to re-crimp ends with new unions.
If you have any trouble bleeding your brakes, have a look at my brakes thread from a few weeks ago.
Also, if you dont have a crimp tool just ask nicely at your local garage/motor factors if you can borrow one!!
happy braking
I have just changed both rear pistons + short lines & shoes, master cylinder & front callipers + green pads& new discs, the new callipers & master cylinder are definately 10mm thread but the old master cylinder had 10mm & i think 14mm, which meant i needed to re-crimp ends with new unions.
If you have any trouble bleeding your brakes, have a look at my brakes thread from a few weeks ago.
Also, if you dont have a crimp tool just ask nicely at your local garage/motor factors if you can borrow one!!
happy braking
Thanks Richard
just what I was after,makes the job so much easier.
We struggle now around Manchester as the local motor factors apparently are not allowed to make up pipes and unions as they can't get insurance?????, I've been told that by 4 local shops now, so they have to send away for the units which is a pain if you snap one at weekend which is when most of us get the time to do the work.
ps I take it the rear "Slaves" were the same then @ 10mm
just what I was after,makes the job so much easier.
We struggle now around Manchester as the local motor factors apparently are not allowed to make up pipes and unions as they can't get insurance?????, I've been told that by 4 local shops now, so they have to send away for the units which is a pain if you snap one at weekend which is when most of us get the time to do the work.
ps I take it the rear "Slaves" were the same then @ 10mm
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Monday 7th May 13:17
Hi
I have just done the flexi pipes on my 1990 S2. I bought all the bits in advance, but found that the front was metric and the rear was imperial (old talbot parts). I would recommend that you check before you buy. Also the rear flexis were rusted on solid and I could only remove them by cutting them and taking off the rear trailing arms (which I was doing anyway). Good Luck!
I have just done the flexi pipes on my 1990 S2. I bought all the bits in advance, but found that the front was metric and the rear was imperial (old talbot parts). I would recommend that you check before you buy. Also the rear flexis were rusted on solid and I could only remove them by cutting them and taking off the rear trailing arms (which I was doing anyway). Good Luck!
Just changed the servo, master cylinder, cleaned the front callipers and replaced the seals, fitted green pads, EBC discs and flexiable hoses, 10mm thread. Blooming 'ell the car now stops!!!
As S3rich says happy braking.
As S3rich says happy braking.
Edited by mbracing on Monday 7th May 19:56
Edited by mbracing on Monday 7th May 19:57
mbracing said:
Just changed the servo, master cylinder, cleaned the front callipers and replaced the seals, fitted green pads, EBC discs and flexiable hoses, 10mm thread. Blooming 'ell the car now stops!!!
Looks like you've replaced the copper brake lines with flex, why on earth? You should only use flex where necessary to allow steering/suspension movement. Elsewhere stick to copper/cunifer, it's more durable and doesn't expand under pressure as hose does (even braided hose).
You don't get a flex issue with steering or suspension movements if you use proper clamps. The other main reason is due to the corrosion I would have to replace the Copper pipe & Flexible hose this would be around £100. I paid £20 for hoses and swirl ends.
The 2nd reason for going down this route is that the person who fitted them also supplies and fits the hoses to Ferrari, BAR, Williams F1 cars, Prodrive Rally & Aston Martin, Prodrive Group N rally Cars, GT series cars, Race Bikes etc. plus aerospace & F1 power boats.
The 2nd reason for going down this route is that the person who fitted them also supplies and fits the hoses to Ferrari, BAR, Williams F1 cars, Prodrive Rally & Aston Martin, Prodrive Group N rally Cars, GT series cars, Race Bikes etc. plus aerospace & F1 power boats.
Edited by mbracing on Wednesday 9th May 16:10
mbracing said:
You don't get a flex issue with steering or suspension movements if you use proper clamps. The other main reason is due to the corrosion I would have to replace the Copper pipe & Flexible hose this would be around £100. I paid £20 for hoses and swirl ends.
The 2nd reason for going down this route is that the person who fitted them also supplies and fits the hoses to Ferrari, BAR, Williams F1 cars, Prodrive Rally & Aston Martin, Prodrive Group N rally Cars, GT series cars, Race Bikes etc. plus aerospace & F1 power boats.
The 2nd reason for going down this route is that the person who fitted them also supplies and fits the hoses to Ferrari, BAR, Williams F1 cars, Prodrive Rally & Aston Martin, Prodrive Group N rally Cars, GT series cars, Race Bikes etc. plus aerospace & F1 power boats.
I think you misunderstood me. You have to use hose where the brake circuit needs to flex to allow movement, i.e. to cope with suspension and steering movement. It's best to use solid pipes elsewhere and only use hose where necessary, because solid pipes don't stretch under pressure (as hoses do) and also are cheaper, more durable and last longer. Using hoses throughout is a rather expensive way to do it that doesn't work as well as the cheaper way.
GreenV8 I did misunderstood, sorry about that, I do have much respect for what you have to say on this forum.
Totally agree with you on cost if I was fitting new brakes myself it would have been solid pipes all over, however in my case it was not, only because I knew someone trade. Solid pipeing does last longer mile-per-mile but I believe on average I have another 15 years before replace is due...
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