Discussion
Probably an old topic but I am relatively new to this TVR game. Went for a run at the weekend about 100 mile round trip and the car overheated. Steam everywhere and engine compartment covered in brown water. Temperature guage never went above 90 and cooling fan came on. Any advice please.
Is it possible there is still some air in the system? If you don't get it all out it will cause a problem so (when cold) take the cap off the swirl pot (as per those above I have the pressure cap on the swirl pot) and then try the bleed valve at the top of the radiator to see if any air comes out and then set the heater control to hot and run the car for a minute or so with the swirl pot cap still off to allow any air to get out then replace the cap and allow the engine to warm up (with some gentle revving to move any air round and hopefully out) maybe until the fan trips in. When you switch the engine off ensure there is about half a tank full of coolant in the header tank (to enable it to suck coolant back as it cools). When cold check the swirl pot and top up if necessary and check the header tank has the pipe at the bottom covered by about 1/4 inch or so and then see how it goes.
Jim
Jim
Edited by jimed on Tuesday 11th September 17:03
Glen 
have had same problem with my 88-S1 
looked at all strings written on subject tried most options,but still had overheating I think due to airlock in top pipe from rad 
then had to take drastic action 
.Fitted different expansion bottle from a Renault put a blank cap on swirl chamber (cut off spring seal) brazed quarter BSP nipple to top rad to swirl chamber pipe & altered pipework so that any trapped air escapes to expansion chamber.Swirl chamber/rad is refilled on cool down from expansion chamber. http://www.tvrserenity.blogspot.com/
have had same problem with my 88-S1 looked at all strings written on subject tried most options,but still had overheating I think due to airlock in top pipe from rad then had to take drastic action .Fitted different expansion bottle from a Renault put a blank cap on swirl chamber (cut off spring seal) brazed quarter BSP nipple to top rad to swirl chamber pipe & altered pipework so that any trapped air escapes to expansion chamber.Swirl chamber/rad is refilled on cool down from expansion chamber. http://www.tvrserenity.blogspot.com/
t.If you have ensured there is no air in the system, ie bled it correctly, and that there are no leaks and that the pressure caps are ok, then try changing the radiator. I have messed around for a couple of years, cutting extra hles, changing this and that, but eventually decided to buy an aluminium radiator for a Ford Sierra of similar vintage, and with a small amount of fiddling around, has solved the problem. It only cost £55-00 + vat. I have also fitted my car with a Cosworth V6, which I can can the sh*t out of all day without any problems. Got rid of the swirl pot aswell, so the system works just like a standard Sierra.
Looks like my overheating issue is sorted now (touches as much wood as possible), the lip of the swirl tank has corroded and been scraped away to a point the cap cannot get a air-tight fit and hence air was getting back in to the system / water out - a rubber bung to seal this up has done the trick at minimal expense 
BTW, I'm in the pressure cap on the expansion tank camp :ducksforcover:
BTW, I'm in the pressure cap on the expansion tank camp :ducksforcover:
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