Discussion
Hi dudes,
Anyone know where i can get my 2.9 rebuilt and how much it will cost?
The only link online i have is this place http://www.specialisedengines.co.uk/dir15.html#29v...
Although the prices seem to be very old and dont know if its includes VAT.
Im looking for anywhere in the north.
Cheers
Anyone know where i can get my 2.9 rebuilt and how much it will cost?
The only link online i have is this place http://www.specialisedengines.co.uk/dir15.html#29v...
Although the prices seem to be very old and dont know if its includes VAT.
Im looking for anywhere in the north.
Cheers
You could try Bogg Brother http://www.boggbros.co.uk/index.html, not too far from you either. They have a good reputation from what I have heard. Also have a chat with Tom at T J Motors in Boroughbridge, he used to do all the service work on my S3, good mechanic who also preps his own rally car.
jwoffshore said:
How many miles has your engine done? What symptoms lead you to believe it needs a rebuild? Bore wear is not normally too bad, so you might be OK with just a new set of piston rings. The cams tend to wear out and big end bearings go well before the mains. The valve seats and exhaust valve guides usually benefit from a refresh.
Its on about 135k and sounds like a bag of spanners (always has) and is very VERY tappety. The other thing is that its leaking a massive amount of oil (and getting worse) from somewhere near where the gearbox is attached which makes me think it might need to come out anyway. Another thing is that i really want to have all the mechanicals sorted properly for summer 08. I dont have a massive budget though, id spend £1000 if i could be fairly sure of it being solid for a lot more miles. Another thing is i quite fancy a remap but i dont want to do that if the engine is going to blow up during the process or shortly after.
I am open to suggestions though, perhaps there is some remedial work that can be done to ensure the engine lives a bit longer?
I dont know how to work on engines however i dont see why i couldnt have a crack a taking it apart (or out) myself and getting the parts cleaned up. Putting it back together will probably be too much for me.
Main objective is longevity rather than performance.
Edited by tomTVR on Tuesday 16th October 10:23
Cheers for the advice. As someone once said to me - the most fun car is the one that works!
Just a couple of questions. Excluding taking the engine in and out, how many hours will it take to refresh said parts?
If it needs a rebore, pistons rings, rocker gear etc - would it be better to pick up a salvage engine from ebay for £250 and start again?
If it is the crankshaft oil seal that is leaking - is that an expensive/ engine out job?
I have had a look at www.ferriday.co.uk - looks good so may speak to them and see what they suggest. T J Motors in Boroughbridge is just round the corner from me so if he can do the job that would be superb.
Just a couple of questions. Excluding taking the engine in and out, how many hours will it take to refresh said parts?
If it needs a rebore, pistons rings, rocker gear etc - would it be better to pick up a salvage engine from ebay for £250 and start again?
If it is the crankshaft oil seal that is leaking - is that an expensive/ engine out job?
I have had a look at www.ferriday.co.uk - looks good so may speak to them and see what they suggest. T J Motors in Boroughbridge is just round the corner from me so if he can do the job that would be superb.
If it is VERY tappety I know the older 2.3/2.8 V6 engines could spin a cam bearing which cuts off the flow of oil to the rockers on one side.
This happened to one of my friends and the clatter is incredible. The engine did keep going for yonks though.
The shell bearing has a hole through it for the oil flow up to the heads, when it spins it blocks the hole off.
If you have a Haynes manual have a look in there to see if there is a picture of the oil routes, it will be much clearer if there is.
The 2.9 isn't all that different to the 2.8 on the bottom end is it? If not its possible this has happened, in which case I'd look for another engine as there will probably be all sorts of wear going on.
Does the tappety noise seem to be more on one side of the engine than the other ?
If you can get the rocker covers off one side will be dry if this has happened.
Chris
This happened to one of my friends and the clatter is incredible. The engine did keep going for yonks though.
The shell bearing has a hole through it for the oil flow up to the heads, when it spins it blocks the hole off.
If you have a Haynes manual have a look in there to see if there is a picture of the oil routes, it will be much clearer if there is.
The 2.9 isn't all that different to the 2.8 on the bottom end is it? If not its possible this has happened, in which case I'd look for another engine as there will probably be all sorts of wear going on.
Does the tappety noise seem to be more on one side of the engine than the other ?
If you can get the rocker covers off one side will be dry if this has happened.
Chris
Or how about a bit of a project.......
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-COSWORTH-2-9-V6-ENGINE-...
or more seriously this may be worth a look
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-9-EFi-Cologne-V6-engine-fr...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-COSWORTH-2-9-V6-ENGINE-...
or more seriously this may be worth a look
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-9-EFi-Cologne-V6-engine-fr...
Edited by Barkychoc on Tuesday 16th October 17:17
Barkychoc said:
That will fit, there was a guy on here who looked into it. I think the main problems with it are SOHC design has some minor clearance issues and there are no flywheels available for it (always connected to an auto).tomTVR said:
Ill take the rocker covers off tomorrow and have a look, though most of the oil has leaked out anyway onto the garage floor!
What's the oil pressure like on your engine when its warmed up?Ignore readings when cold, it will always be higher then.
Oil pressure at idle and at about 2500 revs would be interesting.
Obviously there's enough pressure there to throw it out the engine!
Chris
Also if your crankshaft oil seal has gone you will most likely need a new clutch aswell due to oil contamination.
Does the clutch judder?
Could be worth getting the bottom of the engine steam cleaned to try and see for sure where the oil is coming from before you start throwing money at it.
Anything is possible with the age of these cars - your sump culd even have rusted through or been hit by something & damaged.
Does the clutch judder?
Could be worth getting the bottom of the engine steam cleaned to try and see for sure where the oil is coming from before you start throwing money at it.
Anything is possible with the age of these cars - your sump culd even have rusted through or been hit by something & damaged.
Edited by Barkychoc on Tuesday 16th October 17:55
tomTVR said:
Barkychoc said:
That will fit, there was a guy on here who looked into it. I think the main problems with it are SOHC design has some minor clearance issues and there are no flywheels available for it (always connected to an auto).http://www.fordpower.org.uk/forum/
Boosted.
Thanks for the info guys. I think given my budget the best thing to do first is to get my engine inspected If it can be fixed then ill get it fixed and if not then ill have to find a second hand one to either use for parts or completely replace.
The previous owner did have some head off work 15k ago. Seats and valves recut and heads resurfaced. Not sure if that is going to be of much benefit to me now (as i dont know enough about engines or my problem) - guess its better than if they hadnt been done.
The previous owner did have some head off work 15k ago. Seats and valves recut and heads resurfaced. Not sure if that is going to be of much benefit to me now (as i dont know enough about engines or my problem) - guess its better than if they hadnt been done.
The head work may explain the loud tappets - I'd expect them to settle down after some work like that and need adjusting again - sounds like they may not have been done.
If thats the case you may find things are not so serious - I wouldn't worry unduly about the mileage if it has been well looked after.
I'd get a garage who knows what they are doing to do a wet and dry compression test - this will determine the status of your piston rings and bores. I'd make decisions after that, assuming there's nothing else thats terminal.
If you're not doing a big mileage there's potentially years left in your engine if its reasonable.
Chris
If thats the case you may find things are not so serious - I wouldn't worry unduly about the mileage if it has been well looked after.
I'd get a garage who knows what they are doing to do a wet and dry compression test - this will determine the status of your piston rings and bores. I'd make decisions after that, assuming there's nothing else thats terminal.
If you're not doing a big mileage there's potentially years left in your engine if its reasonable.
Chris
Before you rip the engine out do check that the oil leak isn't from the rocker gaskets - an area that is prone to leak. Get some engine cleaner and clean it up then see where it leaks from. I took the heads off my 93k mileage engine and the bores were like new. No ridge and the cross hatching was still visible. If the previous owner had the heads worked on 15k ago then I'd be surprised if the bores are that bad - unless you have suffered from bore wash. I seem to recall you had problems with it running rich (lots of exhaust soot) and not running smoothly at one point.
As the heads were removed recently there is a fair chance that the tappets need adjusting. I've done 2k since refitting my heads and they are rattling and need adjusting now that everything has settled in.
As the heads were removed recently there is a fair chance that the tappets need adjusting. I've done 2k since refitting my heads and they are rattling and need adjusting now that everything has settled in.
Jed-S said:
I seem to recall you had problems with it running rich (lots of exhaust soot) and not running smoothly at one point.
Ah yes, turned out to be the throttle pot, made the engine run much smoother actually but theres always been the tappetyness audible at low revs.I will post up my findings and let you know how and where i get it fixed.
Cheers
Last year I replaced my engine with an eBay special. It was from a low mileage (65k) XR4x4 Auto. When I stripped down my 100k TVR engine I was amazed at the lack of any wear on the bores and the shells looked in good condition too. Consequently, I had no hesitation in fitting the new engine, with a new clutch and waterpump, rocker-cover gaskets etc for a grand total of about £150. The engine was relatively easy to change with a borrrowed hoist and I also had the chance to clean up the chassis and suspension when the bonnet was off and the engine out.
It was interesting that there was no difference in the performance of the two engines. The only reason I changed the engine was that I needed a new sump and the core plugs were very rusty.
If you are in any way mechanically minded I would consider this option before you throw a lot of money at replacing a relatively bullet-proof engine. At the end of the day, there are a lot of cheap replacement engines around and it's a relatively simple job. And it's satisfying, and you end up with loads of spares too.
It was interesting that there was no difference in the performance of the two engines. The only reason I changed the engine was that I needed a new sump and the core plugs were very rusty.
If you are in any way mechanically minded I would consider this option before you throw a lot of money at replacing a relatively bullet-proof engine. At the end of the day, there are a lot of cheap replacement engines around and it's a relatively simple job. And it's satisfying, and you end up with loads of spares too.
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