s3 engine not running smoothly
Discussion
I have recently bourght a 1990 s3 with just over 80k on the clock.
Gereral driving at normal and high speeds is fine, but at low speeds (First and reverse)it feels a little lumpy and when idle the revs keep dropping and it feels like its going to cut out (athough never does).
The rev counter at idle stays at just under 1000rpm.
I have just booked her in for a full service with a local garage, should this cure the problem or is there anything else that it could be?
I would be grateful for any advice
L.Millar
Gereral driving at normal and high speeds is fine, but at low speeds (First and reverse)it feels a little lumpy and when idle the revs keep dropping and it feels like its going to cut out (athough never does).
The rev counter at idle stays at just under 1000rpm.
I have just booked her in for a full service with a local garage, should this cure the problem or is there anything else that it could be?
I would be grateful for any advice
L.Millar
If I were you I'd forget the local garage and go for a reputable tuning company with a rolling road.(but still change all filters, oil and water before) This way they can check all aspects of the engine, and hopefully iron out your'e lumping running with a full set up. Added bonus is confidence, probably a increase in bhp/torque and a RR print out.
When these engines came from Ford they were never set up to their optimum, theres a lot you can do with small tweaks. Hope this helps
When these engines came from Ford they were never set up to their optimum, theres a lot you can do with small tweaks. Hope this helps

Edited by V6ish on Thursday 1st November 20:01
If you're into tinkering I'd change all the plugs, plug leads, distibutor cap and rotor arm, as it could be a misfire. In any case if they are original it would be good to change them - I guarantee you will see some difference in the way it runs.
The spark plug condition may also give you some clues as to whats going on.
There are various pictures on the internet of spark plug conditions.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs....
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/spark...
These are a bit extreme doubt you'd see them.
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/spark...
The spark plug condition may also give you some clues as to whats going on.
There are various pictures on the internet of spark plug conditions.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs....
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/spark...
These are a bit extreme doubt you'd see them.
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/spark...
Edited by Barkychoc on Thursday 1st November 22:46
If it's fine generally but not very steady at idle, varying up and down and dropping when you switch things on, then personally, I would start with the idle speed control valve. They can soot up, so taking it off, separating the valve from the solenoid and cleaning it all out with carb cleaner might help. Make sure you have no air leaks past the wee gasket when you put it all back together!
One other thing that can cause poor running is a dodgy fuel pump or power to the fuel pump. Check the power connector to the pump in the nearside rear wheel arch. I was never happy with the way mine ran then one day it gently died. Turned out the connector to the fuel pump was past its best and once replaced the car ran much better.
The other points mentioned are more likely though but thought I'd relay my experiences.
The other points mentioned are more likely though but thought I'd relay my experiences.
Barkychoc said:
If you're into tinkering I'd change all the plugs, plug leads, distibutor cap and rotor arm, as it could be a misfire. In any case if they are original it would be good to change them - I guarantee you will see some difference in the way it runs.
The spark plug condition may also give you some clues as to whats going on.
There are various pictures on the internet of spark plug conditions.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs....
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/spark...
These are a bit extreme doubt you'd see them.
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/spark...
I agree. I had a similar problem, although no quite as bad. Got a set of plugs, leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap all from the local motor factors (Granada V6 12valve). It took me no more than an hour to do the lot and bingo straight away better running and cost wise was under £50.The spark plug condition may also give you some clues as to whats going on.
There are various pictures on the internet of spark plug conditions.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs....
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/spark...
These are a bit extreme doubt you'd see them.
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/spark...
Edited by Barkychoc on Thursday 1st November 22:46
I know Austec were very busy, also heard rumours about them closing down, don't know if thats true or not. If you don't mind a bit of a drive (and lets face it any excuse for a blast down the motorway) then we can recommend Power Engineering at Uxbridge, that's where we took the Griff.
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could be because we have abandoned her a bit lately in favour of the Griff.






Hello redcarlady, how`s your new griff, enjoy it they are something else 