Discussion
I have now changed the plugs,leads,dis cap and rotor arm. The engine is running like a dream!
I am now however hearing a tinny noise coming (i think) from the exhaust.
I know these cars have their assortment of strange noises but this is getting on my nerves!
It's not very loud but its enough that i can hear it inside the car and out and it detracts from the roar!
Can I do any thing about this? Would a full stainless system help?
Lwin
I am now however hearing a tinny noise coming (i think) from the exhaust.
I know these cars have their assortment of strange noises but this is getting on my nerves!
It's not very loud but its enough that i can hear it inside the car and out and it detracts from the roar!
Can I do any thing about this? Would a full stainless system help?
Lwin
I had similar problems with a tinny rattle. Initially the rattle was when I'd been running at 3000rpm or higher and when slowing down it would rattle badly. After cutting open the front section of the exhaust system and welding it up I resolved that problem but then had a permanent tinny rattle afterwards. I cut open the front section again and started hacking out the perforated baffle. Turned out that it was split in places along its length.
Inside the front section you have 2 shaped sheets of perforated metal that were probably surrounded by acoustic wadding when new. The wadding vanishes over time and the perforated sheets break down. I suspect that could be your problem. One of those stethoscopes from Machine Mart will help isolate the noise.
Inside the front section you have 2 shaped sheets of perforated metal that were probably surrounded by acoustic wadding when new. The wadding vanishes over time and the perforated sheets break down. I suspect that could be your problem. One of those stethoscopes from Machine Mart will help isolate the noise.
Hi, like JED I cut open my exhaust (at the top) and found the welding on the baffle plate had come loose,this caused it to viberate. Got a mate to repair the welds, repacked and welded back up as good as new 
when repacking get as much in as possible before welding the tops back on, still noisy but sound so smooth.
when repacking get as much in as possible before welding the tops back on, still noisy but sound so smooth. Lwin,
Before you go splitting the box open - check all of your clamps and rubber bushes - I went to the lenghts of having the silencer box split open a while ago only to find absolutely nothing wrong and my rattling noise turned out to be 2 of the u clamps touching each other but only at certain revs - solved by simply grinding a bit of the side of both clamps - because the noise was resonating through the exhaust it not appear to come from that point at all so I would check the simple stuff first.
Cheers
Graham
Before you go splitting the box open - check all of your clamps and rubber bushes - I went to the lenghts of having the silencer box split open a while ago only to find absolutely nothing wrong and my rattling noise turned out to be 2 of the u clamps touching each other but only at certain revs - solved by simply grinding a bit of the side of both clamps - because the noise was resonating through the exhaust it not appear to come from that point at all so I would check the simple stuff first.
Cheers
Graham
I'd also check that you haven't got a leak on the manifolds or somewhere.
If you have come back here for advice from those who have undone the manifolds (not me) before attempting to move any of the manifold bolts - they are a bugger for snapping off.
Start the engine cold and have a quick feel with your fingers around all the joints (including the welded ones) before it gets too hot. Be careful, it gets very hot very quickly.
If it is serious it will be obvious.
Do the manifolds first as they heat up the quickest, then work your way down the exhaust at joints etc.
I'd also feel around the entry / exit points of the exhaust box as it is possible there could be a crack, they do get walloped on the road quite a bit on the V6.
Chris
If you have come back here for advice from those who have undone the manifolds (not me) before attempting to move any of the manifold bolts - they are a bugger for snapping off.
Start the engine cold and have a quick feel with your fingers around all the joints (including the welded ones) before it gets too hot. Be careful, it gets very hot very quickly.
If it is serious it will be obvious.
Do the manifolds first as they heat up the quickest, then work your way down the exhaust at joints etc.
I'd also feel around the entry / exit points of the exhaust box as it is possible there could be a crack, they do get walloped on the road quite a bit on the V6.
Chris
Edited by Barkychoc on Thursday 8th November 14:18
Thanks all,
will check for leaks over the weekend.
If i were to replace the exhaust could i take it to a regular garage or should a tvr shop do it?
how important is the box?
could i do away with it and run the system straight through?
Would you advise going stainless?
Lots of questions!
hope someone can help!
will check for leaks over the weekend.
If i were to replace the exhaust could i take it to a regular garage or should a tvr shop do it?
how important is the box?
could i do away with it and run the system straight through?
Would you advise going stainless?
Lots of questions!
hope someone can help!
If the car has cats, don't discount them. The source of my 'bag of spanners in a spin dryer' noise was the left side cat, the inside of which had collapsed and was rattling about. Had them both off and the difference was noticeable.
You could do away with the box but it would be LOUD. In fact probably louder than a loud thing and your neighbours will hate you.
Stainless isn't much of a premium over mild and certainly worth it.
You could do away with the box but it would be LOUD. In fact probably louder than a loud thing and your neighbours will hate you.
Stainless isn't much of a premium over mild and certainly worth it.
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