Help re Trailing arm removal tools list
Discussion
I seem to recall seeing a list of tools required to remove the rear trailing arm but I am struggling to find it. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Im doing the job tomorrow and would appreciate any pointers as to the tools required as the car is a few miles away from my house. I seem to remember a thread which mentioned the tool (TORX no??) req'd to undoe the driveshaft flange.
Ken you can get a draper socket specifically for the Sierra driveshaft nut (I know this isn't what you asked).
I've bought one (ebay) and it does fit really well (3/4" drive). Guess correct size socket would do though.
Check you're going the right way aswell LH / RH thread.
I seem to remember someone mentioning torx 40 or 45 but thats all I can remember on what you asked.
Sorry chocolate teapot springs to mind doesn't it?
Chris
I've bought one (ebay) and it does fit really well (3/4" drive). Guess correct size socket would do though.
Check you're going the right way aswell LH / RH thread.
I seem to remember someone mentioning torx 40 or 45 but thats all I can remember on what you asked.
Sorry chocolate teapot springs to mind doesn't it?
Chris
pies said:
Thats one of the them much appreciated, Could do with a definate on that torx thingy though, may have to get one on the way there. T45 for the driveshaft flange, they torqued up pretty tight so a bit of care is needed to avoid mangling the bolt heads. Make sure you clean them out before attempting to undo them. 7/8-in (22mm) and 13/16-in sockets for the main pivots, bolt heads and nuts are different sizes.
If you take the shocks out make a careful note of the bolt, nut and washer locations, its a sod to get back together if you mix them up. Oh and careful with the brake hoses and pipes, had a mix of metric and imperial unions on mine.
K
If you take the shocks out make a careful note of the bolt, nut and washer locations, its a sod to get back together if you mix them up. Oh and careful with the brake hoses and pipes, had a mix of metric and imperial unions on mine.
K
You may have also seen a bit about this on my site.
http://deadpineapple.net/tvr/suspension1.php
When I did mine I didn't remove the drive shafts so had no need to use a torx bit. If you do decide to remove them then they are T45.
It is a fairly simple job so hopefully you shouldn't have any issues.
Jed
http://deadpineapple.net/tvr/suspension1.php
When I did mine I didn't remove the drive shafts so had no need to use a torx bit. If you do decide to remove them then they are T45.
It is a fairly simple job so hopefully you shouldn't have any issues.
Jed
You only need torx sockets if you are taking the driveshaft off the hub or the diff. I did mine leaving the whole driveshaft in place, just knocked the end out of the trailing arm. As pies says, my website shows how (thanks Colin)
Drive shaft nut is 41mm - a 3/4 inch drive (not a 3/4 inch socket!) is better but again, Dave and I did mine with a 1/2 inch drive socket.
Drive shaft nut is 41mm - a 3/4 inch drive (not a 3/4 inch socket!) is better but again, Dave and I did mine with a 1/2 inch drive socket.
Hi Chris
No problems removing the arms really but a couple of points that may be worth bearing in mind
1 Torx bit is a T40 (on mine away) and I would recommend using an extended one, the short one seemed to foul on the rubber CV joint causing the splines to not locate fully (this could be why some people have had them round off,maybe) you may not need to remove the shaft from the axle depending what your doing.
2 If you can, get hold of both sockets and flat ring spanners in the sizes 7/8 and 13/16, the reason I say this is because the way mine were fitted meant you couldn't get a socket on the outside bolt as the bolt on the body mount protruded too far downwards to allow a socket to be used so on one bolt I used a socket on the bolt head and a spanner on the nut, on the other bolt I found it easier to use the socket on the nut and the spanner on the bolt head,hard to explain but you'll see when you do it.
3 Undo the brake pipes last otherwise you will have brake fluid dripping all over your hands whilst working.
4 If you leave the shafts connected like I did, the assembly is quite heavy.
If you are going to remove the driveshaft it would be best to do it with the arm on the car as you will struggle to hold the shaft whilst you undo the hub nut.
Hope these help a bit
No problems removing the arms really but a couple of points that may be worth bearing in mind
1 Torx bit is a T40 (on mine away) and I would recommend using an extended one, the short one seemed to foul on the rubber CV joint causing the splines to not locate fully (this could be why some people have had them round off,maybe) you may not need to remove the shaft from the axle depending what your doing.
2 If you can, get hold of both sockets and flat ring spanners in the sizes 7/8 and 13/16, the reason I say this is because the way mine were fitted meant you couldn't get a socket on the outside bolt as the bolt on the body mount protruded too far downwards to allow a socket to be used so on one bolt I used a socket on the bolt head and a spanner on the nut, on the other bolt I found it easier to use the socket on the nut and the spanner on the bolt head,hard to explain but you'll see when you do it.
3 Undo the brake pipes last otherwise you will have brake fluid dripping all over your hands whilst working.
4 If you leave the shafts connected like I did, the assembly is quite heavy.
If you are going to remove the driveshaft it would be best to do it with the arm on the car as you will struggle to hold the shaft whilst you undo the hub nut.
Hope these help a bit
The bit I found to be a struggle was lining up the offside mounting bolt through the bush and through the chassis bracket. I had fitted the shims and bolts to the rear mounting point but then could not align the holes... I ended up removing the shims again so the bolt was closer, but still had to drop the arm to get the holes to line up...
The lesson in my case was to fit that bolt first then struggle to align the rear bolts and shims... I found swearing really loudly helped and would recommend you tie some marker string to the hammer you will throw in anger at some stage... I didnt, and havent found the hammer again yet
the photos on myphotoalbum make it all look so straightforward 
The lesson in my case was to fit that bolt first then struggle to align the rear bolts and shims... I found swearing really loudly helped and would recommend you tie some marker string to the hammer you will throw in anger at some stage... I didnt, and havent found the hammer again yet
the photos on myphotoalbum make it all look so straightforward ketvrin said:
Yes I wish you had done yours first so I could just copy... what are you doing next ?
did you find your hammer then ?
Sorry Kevin, forgot you did yours first, wasn't trying to hog the glory!did you find your hammer then ?
I don't throw hammers any more. Not since that time I hit a tyre propped against the wall and it bounced back to where it came from...
No I was serious... I enjoy reading your guides and find them helpful and humorous I did mine kind of blind and wish I had the benefit of this advice before I started I can tell you... Glory was far from my thoughts mate.
I still throw hammers... its good for the stress levels if not the barn walls
I did mine kind of blind and wish I had the benefit of this advice before I started I can tell you... Glory was far from my thoughts mate.I still throw hammers... its good for the stress levels if not the barn walls
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