Door hinges again
Door hinges again
Author
Discussion

S2Andy

Original Poster:

311 posts

242 months

Tuesday 11th December 2007
quotequote all
I know that this is a thorny old topic and I have read many previous threads, however I have been trying to eliminate a slight drop / play (1/4&quotwink in the drivers door. I have replaced the top hinge with no problem, but the pivot bolt on my bottom hinge has rusted into the nylon bush on which the door is supposed to pivot. Hence the pivot bolt either turns in the bonded in brass bush in the body or the whole assembly spins in the sill. I am tempted to leave well alone but has anyone any bright ideas how to release the bolt from the nylon bush given that space is at a premium. I've already used half a can of PlusGas. "Thinks 10p extra on a stainless bolt when new would have prevented this problem"! Cheers. mad Andy J.

Ray S

119 posts

250 months

Tuesday 11th December 2007
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idea I know it's a small space but could you get a Dremel or similar tool in with a grinding head on.Once the doors off you can drill bolt out & re tap 8mm I think,theres no easy way, good luck.frown Ray

nawarne

3,178 posts

289 months

Wednesday 12th December 2007
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Oooooh s'gonna be tricky!

On my V8S (previous car) I had the problem where the set bolt was turning the brass 'bobbin' that was glassed into the body (-but no longer!!).

What I did was to use one of these frameless hacksaws to cut the set bolt in the gap between the 'flat' of the door and the body. There is just enough of a panel gap to get the hacksaw blade in & on the bolt. The bottom bolt was fairly easy to undo.

With the door off (I'd released all the electrics) I painted the adjust brackets and replaced both nylon bushes. Obviously, I re-glassed the bobbin back into the body .
I refitted the door with the adjust brackets just 'snugged-up'and the hinge bolts tightened. I then went to the outside of the car and using rubber and soft wood wedges adjusted the door to get even panel gaps.

Once I was satisfied, I went back to the door internals and tightened up the 10mm (?) bolts on the adjust brackets to hold the door in the set position. The hardest bit was the hacksawing and being happy with glassing the 'bobbin' back in,
Nick

S2Andy

Original Poster:

311 posts

242 months

Wednesday 12th December 2007
quotequote all
Nick, Thanks, I was thinking along similar lines. A couple of questions:
1. Once the door is off how easy is it to extract the remains of the bolt and the bobbin?
2. Is the bobbin visible in the sill and how did you glass it (or a replacement) back in?
Thanks
Andy

nawarne

3,178 posts

289 months

Thursday 13th December 2007
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S2Andy said:
Nick, Thanks, I was thinking along similar lines. A couple of questions:
1. Once the door is off how easy is it to extract the remains of the bolt and the bobbin?
2. Is the bobbin visible in the sill and how did you glass it (or a replacement) back in?
Thanks
Andy
Andy,
1) With the door off, it's pretty easy to remove the bobbin (amazing, really that a small brass thing takes the door weight....TVR's!!). I would imagine that if the bobbin and set bolt are turning as a whole, use the remains of the bolt to lever the bobbin out of the body work (carefully, though!) With the bobbin out, it was easy to hold it in a vice and unscrew the bolt stump.

2) the bobbin is clearly visible....you have a cut bolt sticking out of it!...and its glassed flush with the surface of the door frame/bodywork. I used glass mat and resin poked in with a brush to re-fix the bobbin. It doesn't have to be too pretty as the door covers it up when on. In hindsight, I might have considered some of this 2 pack epoxy in a 'gun' from a builders merchant - goes off in about 10 minutes.

Good luck!
Nick

S2Andy

Original Poster:

311 posts

242 months

Thursday 13th December 2007
quotequote all
Nick
Thanks for the info - extremely useful. Probably tackle this when the weather warms up a bit. Thanks again. Andy J.