chassis photos
chassis photos
Author
Discussion

kenpage

Original Poster:

322 posts

235 months

Wednesday 19th December 2007
quotequote all
the first photos of my new s/h chassis now its painted.......................
http://kenpage.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set...

V8ish

370 posts

228 months

Wednesday 19th December 2007
quotequote all
Thats a credit to you, good work. Keep us posted, we need more photos on here!

trickjohn

293 posts

238 months

Wednesday 19th December 2007
quotequote all
Ken - Very, Very nice. Do you want to do a striaght swop with mine ? (mine cherry red and rusty brown - with some carefully designed lighting holes)

Thought not.

Best of luck.
Sean

sparkypete

617 posts

232 months

Thursday 20th December 2007
quotequote all
Looking good mate, whats did you use to paint it.

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

233 months

Thursday 20th December 2007
quotequote all
Sean - this gave me an idea.
It might be worth a scan of the breakers to see if they have an S or S chassis.
Even if the outriggers are completely shot the 2.5 inch tubes at the rear may be better than yours and to rebuild it may mean less work than your chassis.

Just a thought.

Might be worth following this up.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Chris


Edited by Barkychoc on Thursday 20th December 14:53

kenpage

Original Poster:

322 posts

235 months

Thursday 20th December 2007
quotequote all
hi it was lightly blasted and i gave it 2 coats of por15 i will waxoil it when its built up before the body goes on.

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

233 months

Thursday 20th December 2007
quotequote all
The griff forum always bangs on about how much better tectyl is than waxoyl.
Only reporting what I've read, don't shoot the messenger!

Chris

kenpage

Original Poster:

322 posts

235 months

Thursday 20th December 2007
quotequote all
hi chris ive noted that and i will look into it thanks

kenpage

Original Poster:

322 posts

235 months

Friday 28th December 2007
quotequote all
hi guys i have added a few more photos you can find them at................... http://kenpage.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set...

clarenceboddiger

1,398 posts

244 months

Friday 28th December 2007
quotequote all
Good stuff, looks like time well spent.

kenpage

Original Poster:

322 posts

235 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2008
quotequote all
hi i have added a few photos of where i am at the moment should be at.......... http://kenpage.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set...

Edited by kenpage on Tuesday 22 January 16:00


Edited by kenpage on Tuesday 22 January 16:02

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

233 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2008
quotequote all
Ken its looking good - I'd be interested to know what you painted it with - particularly the exhaust manifolds.

kenpage

Original Poster:

322 posts

235 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2008
quotequote all
chris they are painted with a paint called hycote vht its supposed to be ok to 1200f a mate used it on a 1760 crossflow 4 branch and so far its held up it comes in various colours i used aluminium the engine was painted with engine block paint and the chassis is por15 but i would not recommend using it over anything thats already painted its adhesion is not that great

Edited by kenpage on Tuesday 22 January 17:13

trickjohn

293 posts

238 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2008
quotequote all
5h1t, i've just sent £116 on POR 15 - everything is shot blasted 3 weeks ago - should I send it back?

Sean

kenpage

Original Poster:

322 posts

235 months

Wednesday 23rd January 2008
quotequote all
sean have you undercoated it yet or is it still bare if its bare por is best but if its painted ive noticed that you can damage the por if its put on over an undercoat..type in por15 on google and read some of the american posts then phone frosts for advice i used it on both bare and painted and on the bare metal it really sticks i applied it as per with metal ready first but its possible it was too cold in the garage ken ps what else is there only hammerite also remember if you spray por you need an air fed mask and if you brush it open all the doors and windows in the garage



Edited by kenpage on Wednesday 23 January 15:45

trickjohn

293 posts

238 months

Wednesday 23rd January 2008
quotequote all
Hi Ken,

The paint arrived today - the chassis is completely bare (shotblasted 3 weeks ago)no primer anywhere - last Wednesday welding was completed - so I have new metal and old metal (the new metal is not shotblasted, but could be if required).

The method I was considering -

Degrease - POR Marine Clean welding has left some residue. Wash down

Spray with POR Metal Ready - wash down

Spray with Silver POR 15

Wait 2 Hours then

Spray with Black POR 15

Leave for a day

spray Tie coat primer

2 pack spray paint red like original colour.(not cellulose) Not POR

Temp must be above 10 deg and humidity must not be above 80%

Humidity is currently around 80% - so will have to wait for a cloudless day.

Thinking about what you said I may send to shotblast again then go for straight POR 15, Tie coat, then red - what do you think?

Best Regards

Sean

kenpage

Original Poster:

322 posts

235 months

Wednesday 23rd January 2008
quotequote all
hi sean my personal opinion would be to blast again and whilst its totally bare 2 coat por15 on bare metal it sticks like 5hit to a blanket and if you want it in the normal s3 red as you say tie coat and 2 top coats of red im going to waxoil the chassis on mine before i refit the body..dont get me wrong i think por is the best but it needs to go on blasted or rusty metal

trickjohn

293 posts

238 months

Friday 25th January 2008
quotequote all
Hi Ken - did you paint it by hand ?, if so how long did it take approx.

Best regards

Sean

kenpage

Original Poster:

322 posts

235 months

Friday 25th January 2008
quotequote all
hi sean i hand painted it and because you have to put the second coat on after about 4 hrs i painted it in two goes ie the front half 2 coats 1 day and then the back 2 coats next day it takes about 3 hours to do each coat, its possible to do it all in a long day....take the caution of not getting it on your skin seriously it wont come off and beware of the fumes its best to use a good brush or all the bristles come out and spoil the look take your time its worth it happy painting