Front anti roll bar assembly

[trickjohn]

Hi I am trying to get an front anti roll bar assembly for the lower wish bones -

I have rang:

Bell hill in Bath - no S3's broken for at least a year - not much left

Douglas Valley - no anti roll bars and asked what they had - you never know -
Answer - I really cant be bothered to look (thanks arse***e)

Any clues from anyone where I may find one ?

Best regards

Sean

[Barkychoc]

Is it the actual bar you need?

[mikee boy]

If you can't buy one, you might be able to have one made. If somebody has one you could find out the dimensions and how much force is required for a certain deflection. Ideally use rose jointed droplinks too for all-round smoothness. Also, by having one made Sod's law says somebody will have one for sale immediately afterwards.

[trickjohn]

No I need the complete assembly - my S3 has nothing apart from the chassis mounting points- probably because of the cossie engine sump ? (maybe touch - so removed by previous owner?) however I can now adjust the engine height on the mounting points (with large washer / spacer to give greater clearance)

BR Sean

PS got my Chassis back today from blasting (£90) all of a sudden the world seems brighter

[Barkychoc]

trickjohn said:

No I need the complete assembly - my S3 has nothing apart from the chassis mounting points- probably because of the cossie engine sump ? (maybe touch - so removed by previous owner?) however I can now adjust the engine height on the mounting points (with large washer / spacer to give greater clearance)

BR Sean

PS got my Chassis back today from blasting (£90) all of a sudden the world seems brighter

Come on then lets see it!

[trickjohn]

Not til you tell me where a anti roll bar is.

Sean

[Barkychoc]

Anti roll bar shop

[GreenV8S]

You will need to source the ARB itself. The chassis mounts will probably be available from the same source but could easily be made from an aluminium block if not. Drop links that come with the bar you definitely don't need or want. Get a couple of ARB side clamps from Merlin, and a pair of male/female rod end bearings with lock nuts to make your own drop links. Go for decent quality PTFE lined bearings and they should last forever (mine have been on for 150K miles of all year round use and still as good as new) or if you are paranoid you can buy a couple of seals for a quid or so.

[trickjohn]

Much better.



welding starts next weekend.

BR Sean

[Barkychoc]

WOW!
That looks much better, even though it still needs welding.
I always think its important to achieve a milestone every now and again in a big project like this to keep your motivation going.
Is that primed or just bare metal?

[trickjohn]

Bare

[Barkychoc]

I'm considering getting my chassis back bare and painting it initially with this

www.zinga.co.uk

Or maybe I will get the blasters to spray it for me (they do spraying but not with zinga) - I'm still taking the car to bits at the mo.

Chris

[shpub]

If you need custom droplinks to suit a bar or even mounts, I can put them together. I already do them for the standard S series cars.
I would get the bar thickness and the length of the arms and go search a scrapyard. I would guess that a Ford or similar should be able to provide a suitable bar.

[trickjohn]

I will doing research into different coatings shortly as we have a Dept that uses salt chambers at work and do a lot of testing in this area - I will look -sorry get someone who knows what they are doing to look and talk to the engineers and come up with a few options.

BR
Sean

[ketvrin]

Hi John

If I recall correctly a blasted steel assembly should be coated/protected again within 2.1/2 hours to prevent rust starting. your chassis looks great blasted but I would do what you can to stop it going "off" again...

good luck mate

K

[trickjohn]

Hi - after welding it will be shot blasted again, then coated. I did it this way around as I did not know if more problems maybe found and it will help the welding process.

Best Regards

Sean

[ketvrin]

Good plan...

K