S3 voltmeter light and footwell grommet refit.
S3 voltmeter light and footwell grommet refit.
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Discussion

SteveOS3

Original Poster:

503 posts

220 months

Friday 9th May 2008
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I have just acquired my first TVR, 'H' plate S3. There are couple of things that I would like to get sorted but I'm not sure how to proceed.

The backlight on the voltmeter is out and I'd like to replace the bulb but I'm not sure if the instruments just pull or twist out or how much of the dash I'd need to remove, if any, to get at the bulb. If it's a major job I think I'll just put up with it!!

The footwell grommets were not seated correctly so the carpet and underlay got very wet on the 170 mile drive home from the buyer in the rain!! I've left the top off and grommets out for a week and it's almost dry now; however, I didn't note the way the grommets were fitted - or even if they were the right way up! There is a smooth domed finish on one side and a concave finger-sized hole on the other. Can anyone tell me which side should be fitted to the face the road?

Many thanks from a new member,

Steve

merky300

189 posts

226 months

Friday 9th May 2008
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1. The instruments are held in from behind with a bracket, the easiest way to change the bulb is to undo the two screws at the rear sides of the centre console and lift and pull it back this should give just enough room to get to the bulb holder (you may have to unscrew the gear knob to get enough clearance).

2. On mine the grommets are domed side inside the footwell.

I wish that was all I had to do frown

Tony

Edited by merky300 on Friday 9th May 11:50

S3Swiss

235 posts

263 months

Friday 9th May 2008
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Welcome to the world of the S! Not had to touch my dials so can't help there (but the 'search' facility usually turns up the answer - not a lot goes wrong on these cars that someone hasn't fixed in the past). Re the grommets - are you sure the leak was from the floor up? Mine had a leak from the scuttle (where the wipers spindles penetrate the bodywork) which soaked the carpets whenever it rained. I was using the grommet to let the water out! Now I've sealed the leak (silicon sealant), my grommets are smooth side inside the car. Don't really take mine out much in heavy rain so can't vouch for effectiveness. I'm sure you'll get a definitive reply soon - just don't ask where to put the pressure cap - swirl pot or expansion chamber (do a search and see why!!!hehe)Enjoy the Sdriving

SteveOS3

Original Poster:

503 posts

220 months

Friday 9th May 2008
quotequote all
Many thanks Tony,

it's been about 25 years since I've done anything remotely mechanical on my cars(the curse of company driving) and I was surprised how much confidence I'd lost in tackling a dash removal!! I'm sure that will change with the list of things I have in mind though...

Thanks again,

Steve

SteveOS3

Original Poster:

503 posts

220 months

Friday 9th May 2008
quotequote all
Thanks Swiss, I plan to have the bonnet up this weekend and chack that all cables etc that pass into the cockpit are properly sealed.

Steve


Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

226 months

Friday 9th May 2008
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Hi Steve and welcome to the forum. I would suggest that you get hold of Steve Heaths bible 'The TVR S Servies' and you can get it from the TVRCC or direct from Steve at http://www.tvrbooks.co.uk/

Meanwhile this is what he says about the grommet.
'The cure is to replace the grommet and reseal the holes. It was bought as an OddPak from Halfords. (Only the 7/8 inch diameter grommet is needed hut you never know when the others might come in handy.) Clean the area around the hole (above and below the car) so that it is free of dirt and grease. Place a bead of sealant (I used Loctite silicone sealant) around the top edge of the hole so that some goes over the edge. Next, locate the grommet and push it into place. The sealant should push out a little around its circumference, indicating that it has made a good seal. Using a wet knife blade, smooth the sealant around the edge of the grommet so it forms a seal over the floor and grommet. If necessary, add some more sealant and repeat this sealing process underneath the car with another bead of sealant.
When this process is completed, the grommet should he sealed in place at the top and bottom. Allow the sealant to dry before replacing the carpets or driving the car to prevent the new seal from being damaged. A couple of strips of gaffer tape (carpet stores sell it for joining carpet pieces together; music stores sell it for taping cables and equipment together) can be used over the top of the grommet give further protection to the seal.'

The volt meter is retained by a couple of brackets at the back of the meter, see pic below.



However the internal light is just a push fit and you should be able to get at it easily if you follow the instructions above

Edited by Gerald-TVR on Friday 9th May 12:11

SteveOS3

Original Poster:

503 posts

220 months

Friday 9th May 2008
quotequote all
Gerald,

I'll have a copy of the Steve Heath book with me next week. At the moment I'm like a kid with a new toy and just want to get on and fix all the minor things like bulbs!!

One problem with the grommet is that there is a layer of foam, topped by underlay that is glued to the floorpan so I may have to cut a small circle in the underlay/foam to refit and seal the grommet. The carpet lifts out just like a normal rubber car mat.

Steve

tubbystu

3,846 posts

289 months

Friday 9th May 2008
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SteveOS3 said:
Gerald,

I'll have a copy of the Steve Heath book with me next week. At the moment I'm like a kid with a new toy and just want to get on and fix all the minor things like bulbs!!

One problem with the grommet is that there is a layer of foam, topped by underlay that is glued to the floorpan so I may have to cut a small circle in the underlay/foam to refit and seal the grommet. The carpet lifts out just like a normal rubber car mat.

Steve
Blimey in the pedal box floor all I've got is a GRP floor under the loose fitted carpet mat - when that foam & undelay gets wet now wonder it takes so long to dry out.

Oh yes wavey welcome.