Changing the oil seal on the propshaft flange
Discussion
Hello All,
The occasional drip from the front of the diff has turned into several drips and is now causing me serious concern. Has anyone changed one of these seals before. Is it a nightmare?
Normally I do all the maintenance on the car myself but I'm really busy at the mo and I don't want the car off the road for a couple of months during the summer. So I am considering having someone else do the job.
I used Perry Mott at the V8 Centre for a couple of things a few years ago but the V8 Centre is no longer open. Does anyone know a good reliable TVR knowledgeable workshop in the Reading area?
Thanks...Ralph
The occasional drip from the front of the diff has turned into several drips and is now causing me serious concern. Has anyone changed one of these seals before. Is it a nightmare?
Normally I do all the maintenance on the car myself but I'm really busy at the mo and I don't want the car off the road for a couple of months during the summer. So I am considering having someone else do the job.
I used Perry Mott at the V8 Centre for a couple of things a few years ago but the V8 Centre is no longer open. Does anyone know a good reliable TVR knowledgeable workshop in the Reading area?
Thanks...Ralph
Hi Ralph
This does not look like a difficult job to do with the diff in-situ...
Haynes describes it as follows
Remove Propshaft from flange (four bolts... mark position before removal)
hold flange stationary by bolting a long bar to two of the holes - or fit two long bolts and insert a long bar between them.
Unscrew self locking pinion flange nut
using a puller, pull the drive flange out
lever out the old seal using a screwdriver
grease area and fit new seal, using a tube of suitable diameter to drive it in squarely.
slide in drive flange and refit nut - ideally using a new self locking nut - torque to 130-150 Nm
refit propshaft... - torque to 57-67 Nm
I hope this helps either do the job yourself or gauge how much work a garage will need to do for pricing the job.
good luck
Kevin
This does not look like a difficult job to do with the diff in-situ...
Haynes describes it as follows
Remove Propshaft from flange (four bolts... mark position before removal)
hold flange stationary by bolting a long bar to two of the holes - or fit two long bolts and insert a long bar between them.
Unscrew self locking pinion flange nut
using a puller, pull the drive flange out
lever out the old seal using a screwdriver
grease area and fit new seal, using a tube of suitable diameter to drive it in squarely.
slide in drive flange and refit nut - ideally using a new self locking nut - torque to 130-150 Nm
refit propshaft... - torque to 57-67 Nm
I hope this helps either do the job yourself or gauge how much work a garage will need to do for pricing the job.
good luck
Kevin

Edited by ketvrin on Monday 19th May 14:25
Don't forget to have a container ready to catch the oil that will come out once the Flange is removed, and probably more when the seal comes.It may be a good time to do an oil change too, lets face it how often do any of us voluntarily get under and do this job unless we have to. I certainly don't (but I know I should).
You could probably find a socket the correct size to drive it in with.
You could probably find a socket the correct size to drive it in with.
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Thursday 22 May 06:00
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Thursday 22 May 06:00
Thanks for that. The frustrating thing is I did a body off three years ago and could have done it easily then but of course there was no sign of a problem. I think I'll bite the bullet and have it done by a pro so that car stays on the road for the summer.
Any recommendations for a good TVR indy around Reading?
R
Any recommendations for a good TVR indy around Reading?
R
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