Wish to get car lower

[Orophin]

My car is sitting a little high, there is took much space in between the arch and the wheel for my liking. I don't want to lower it at the moment because ground clearance can be a nightmare (depending on where you go of course) and the ride is quite rough anyway and shakes the car to pieces.

It has fully adjustable koni suspension fitted about two years ago, I'll clarify that as I go through some history the old owner left me. But I'm thinking maybe a custom exhaust to give more ground clearance and a nitron suspension kit? That's like 1500 bucks though isn't it? Are they really that good???

[GreenV8S]

The Nitrons really are that good, but to get any real improvement in ground clearance you'd need to raise the spring rates (luckily the Nitrons are good enough for you to do that without compromising the ride quality). However, as soon as you drop the ride height down you'll wipe out all those gains and be scraping the ground again. If it's any consolation, the V8S is virtually the same car but with substantially better ground clearance and lots more grunt. You know it makes sense ...

[Orophin]

that white one for 5k looks interesting

hasn't Longers got a custom exhaust? Where can you get custom exhausts...? 3cm might make all the difference.

[Longers]

Yes he has, and yes, 3cm (with correctly set suspension) does make a huge difference

Mine was on the car when I got it and was made by the company that also made the roll bar. I'll check the doc's when home tonight and give you their contact details. Alternatively if you ring Guglielmi Motorsport on 01327 878425 and ask for Dave (it used to be his car) I'm sure he can put you in touch.

Cheers,
Longers

[Chris71]

I was about to say - even at standard ride height you get used to grimacing at unpleasant grinding noises coming from below when you go over a bit of a bump - make sure your spring rates and bump stops are adjusted accordingly! Also make sure you definitely want to do it - on the road a car which is too soft is usually less of a problem than one which is too stiff.

[CTE]

You really do not want to lower the suspension much if at all because it ruins the geometry and the steering, and what little ground clearance you have. I had a custom system made by Powerflow, and its great, but it still crashes out on horrible B roads, and I have 600lb in springs at the rear! It would be Ok perhaps for very hard suspension and track use, but otherwise you will regret it. Do`nt forget your tracking will need resetting as a minimum. No doubt the V8S is better developed being a bit newer, although I guess the exhaust still has to run under the chassis around the differential area, which is where it catches, or at least mine does.
I agree though, they do look a bit high, but they are 20 year old cars now....how tastes have changed.

[zombeh]

There's a scarily huge amount of room under mine. Buy the white one

[Mike Robo]

600lb in springs? I use to have that, then I changed (on the advice of Dave at Gugilemi) to 375lb a corner. I was a bit surprised by the amount he suggested, it didn't seem right considering the weight of the car. It is better now than it ever has been, a bit of tweeking to stop it looking like a monster truck but now I'd happily challenge another 'S' owner to a race over country roads! I'd had 300lb springs for about 12 months, when I took them off they measured an inch less than when fitted, so obviously time is a factor. I'm running AVO's with a 9375 spring.

[Orophin]

Mmmm, 3 cm would make all the difference. What does you're exhaust sound like Longers? And how much was the roll bar and exhaust (if you don't mind me asking), i'm thinking about them both...

Like you said 3cm will make one hell of a difference

Edited by Orophin on Saturday 25th October 14:32

[Barkychoc]

I have never looked at the V6, but the V8 exhaust manifolds join in a 'Y' in front of the engine, then a single downpipe (big) runs down the passenger side of the engine before dropping through the chassis & under the car, well behind the front wheels so it doesn't get bashed on speed bumps.

What I'm saying is it may be worth checking if there is any room down the passenger side of the engine, and if so maybe attempt to copy this setup which will solve the exhaust grounding problem.

Here's a few pics before I took the car to bits that may help - click on the pic for a larger version

[Orophin]

Sounds like a good idea.

[tvrgit]

Think you'll find the V6 starter is in the way and sits almost on top of a crossmember, leaving no space to get an exhaust pipe through. Then the engine mounting is right above that and then the exhaust manifold is almost on top of that again.

Can't visualise the driver's side - perhaps if you can avoid the oil filter and the engine mounting - and get past the steering column...

Edited by tvrgit on Sunday 26th October 15:18

[Barkychoc]

I can't see that it matters which side it is - though on the drivers side will you have the clutch pipework to contend with? Could be rerouted though I guess.
It won't be the easiest project in the world though I guess.

Edited by Barkychoc on Sunday 26th October 18:10

[tvrgit]

Barkychoc said:

I can't see that it matters which side it is - though on the drivers side will you have the clutch pipework to contend with? Could be rerouted though I guess.
It won't be the easiest project in the world though I guess.

Edited by Barkychoc on Sunday 26th October 18:10

V6 clutch arm is on the passenger side behind the starter

[mep12345]

tvrgit said:

Barkychoc said:

I can't see that it matters which side it is - though on the drivers side will you have the clutch pipework to contend with? Could be rerouted though I guess.
It won't be the easiest project in the world though I guess.

Edited by Barkychoc on Sunday 26th October 18:10

V6 clutch arm is on the passenger side behind the starter

We've been round this one before - some are on passenger and some on the drivers side - my clutch arm and clutch hydraulics is on the drivers side. A similar discussion has also been had on starter motor position. Mine is on passenger side but I've seen photos of them on the drivers side as well.



Moral - look and don't assume with a TIV

Mark

Edited by mep12345 on Sunday 26th October 22:01

[Barkychoc]

I presume the side changes must be 2.8 / 2.9 surely??

[Barkychoc]

V8 has starter and clutch slave cylinder on drivers side, exhaust down passenger side.

Steve Heaths book says that the exhaust runs right near the starter on the V8S - but it doesn't its the other side of the engine I think he was referring to earlier wedges and assumed the V8S was the same.

[tvrgit]

Barkychoc said:

I presume the side changes must be 2.8 / 2.9 surely??

I think so - I've just been checking my Granada book - 2.8 has it on the right, 2.9 on the left in the original Ford application. I guess that means that there are two different bellhousings for the type N gearbox, which in theory should both fit the 2.8 or 2.9 block.

Since Orophin's car is a 2.9 (same as mine) I assumed it would be the same. Who knows what bits TVR used though?

Still, if posters want to because they've read a post I haven't, that's entirely up to them. Wish I was clever.

Edited by tvrgit on Sunday 26th October 22:26

[tvrgit]

I found a photo I took a couple of years ago (primarily to show my flattened downpipes!) that shows that there might just about be a route for a pipe through the right hand side of the engine:

[mep12345]

tvrgit said:

Still, if posters want to because they've read a post I haven't, that's entirely up to them. Wish I was clever.

Having re-read my post it could be taken that way, sorry this wasn't what I intended as I was at the number of differences in the same cars (and certainly didn't mean to offend you as you are one of the many who help on this forum)!! My car is the S3 2.9 V6 with starter on left and clutch arm on right.

Therefore I assume (and IIRC from the removal of my box) the only difference is where they sourced the bell housing (i.e. Transit, Capri, Granada/Scorpio or Sierra) as the engine mating face is able to take the starter on both sides with a metal blanking plate covering the part that isn't used and the clutch arm has space on both sides so just pipework routing would affect that.

TVRGit please accept my apology for any inadvertant offence caused

Mark

Edited by mep12345 on Monday 27th October 07:08

Edited by mep12345 on Monday 27th October 07:26