Waxoil or Underbody seal?
Waxoil or Underbody seal?
Author
Discussion

Craigfa

Original Poster:

41 posts

235 months

Friday 19th December 2008
quotequote all
I have cleaned, rust cleared (using Bilthamber hydrate 80), and hammerited the chassis (well, at least the main sections whilst the exhaust is off!) and am now ready to put a final protection on them.

Lots of people seem to refer to Waxoyl as the final layer to use, but I am not sure if that is because it can be sprayed into difficult areas. The sections I am trying to protect can all be accessed with a paint brush.

Can anyone recommend which is best to use - Waxoyl, or Underbody Seal with added Waxoyl (the latter is also a Hammerite product, but in a traditional type of paint tin)

When I get this done I can finally get the exhaust on then hope for some dry winter days rotate

mep12345

2,061 posts

231 months

Friday 19th December 2008
quotequote all
I waxoyl the upper and sides of the box sections and underseal the bottom. For the round sections I underseal the lower half and for the sections behind the front wheels I do the whole front (this is just continuing what the previous owners also did). Be aware the underseal is a bcensoredd to get off if you need to to repaint/do repairs.

Mark

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Friday 19th December 2008
quotequote all
I bought Bilt Hamber Dynax UB - its a new product not on their website yet.
You have to ring them up to order it, about £13 for a 1 litre tin delivered.
Dead easy to paint on with a brush it covers really well - it's quite runny so it would easily go in some sort of sprayer if thats your thing.
Once its dried it forms a tough coating - though out in my garage its quite cool so it took about a week to dry - I thought initially I had made a mistake but now I'm convinced it was the right product to use.
Its a dark brown almost black coating once dry.
It does need a couple of coats though I've done 3.

It is basically Dynax S50 adapted to withstand impact from stones etc.

Apparently this product has been 3 years in development.

Edited by Barkychoc on Friday 19th December 22:41

M&S

393 posts

273 months

Saturday 20th December 2008
quotequote all
Waxoil for the main bits, not keen on underseal - it IS a bcensoredd to get off. For getting in those hard to get at places I use Dinitrol 3125 cavity wax(@£12 delivered), its in a 400ml spray can and comes with a longer nozzle aplicator tube, its quite fluid when sprayed then forms a waxy coating, as described on its website "this product has the ability to creep into the small nooks and crannies that the thicker product is not able to." It seems to do that ok for me

Ian

http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/classic_cars.aspx

EdT

5,239 posts

314 months

Sunday 21st December 2008
quotequote all
Is POR15 still looked at with a favourable light? I've got a load kicking around (plus their cleaner, and metal ready etcher). At some point will want to protect RayS's handiwork with a good layer of something, and as I've already got it makes sense - unless anyone knows otherwise?
Ed

wiz 1

2,474 posts

244 months

Monday 29th December 2008
quotequote all
Barkychoc said:
I bought Bilt Hamber Dynax UB - its a new product not on their website yet.
You have to ring them up to order it, about £13 for a 1 litre tin delivered.
Dead easy to paint on with a brush it covers really well - it's quite runny so it would easily go in some sort of sprayer if thats your thing.
Once its dried it forms a tough coating - though out in my garage its quite cool so it took about a week to dry - I thought initially I had made a mistake but now I'm convinced it was the right product to use.
Its a dark brown almost black coating once dry.
It does need a couple of coats though I've done 3.

It is basically Dynax S50 adapted to withstand impact from stones etc.

Apparently this product has been 3 years in development.

Edited by Barkychoc on Friday 19th December 22:41
On with cleaning up the chassis myself at the moment, body on so lots of fiddly bits to get to. Have some of the B.H. rust converter and after a couple of coats of Hammerite was wondering about using their wax products. Guess the Dynax S50 would do the bulk of the chassis then cover the exposed edges with the new stuff. Does it dry to a finsh or is it still waxy?


Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Monday 29th December 2008
quotequote all
wiz 1 said:
Barkychoc said:
I bought Bilt Hamber Dynax UB - its a new product not on their website yet.
You have to ring them up to order it, about £13 for a 1 litre tin delivered.
Dead easy to paint on with a brush it covers really well - it's quite runny so it would easily go in some sort of sprayer if thats your thing.
Once its dried it forms a tough coating - though out in my garage its quite cool so it took about a week to dry - I thought initially I had made a mistake but now I'm convinced it was the right product to use.
Its a dark brown almost black coating once dry.
It does need a couple of coats though I've done 3.

It is basically Dynax S50 adapted to withstand impact from stones etc.

Apparently this product has been 3 years in development.
On with cleaning up the chassis myself at the moment, body on so lots of fiddly bits to get to. Have some of the B.H. rust converter and after a couple of coats of Hammerite was wondering about using their wax products. Guess the Dynax S50 would do the bulk of the chassis then cover the exposed edges with the new stuff. Does it dry to a finsh or is it still waxy?
I spoke to Bilt Hamber about S50 and they said that is designed for box sections - it is not designed to withstand impact from stones and is not UV stable so exposure to sunlight causes it to break down over time. The UB product has been designed to fill that gap.

wiz 1

2,474 posts

244 months

Tuesday 30th December 2008
quotequote all
Not sure if their open at the moment, will give them a ring in the new year. Think the S50 will be better for getting to the hard to reach parts unless the new stuff comes in a spray can. Don't like covering every thing up but want something on to stop the rust going any further. Lots of place's where a paint brush just won't go.