Discussion
My engine has to come out of the chassis. I've removed most of the ancillaries at the front of the engine. I remember seeing photo's on here of the engine being taken out together with its manifolds, but on a closer look, it seems to be a very tight fit. Has anyone here taken the engine out together with the S2 manifolds? (the long ones) Is it possible?
The manifolds are the reasaon that the engine has to come out: the bolts on the manifolds have rusted away / rounded off, so I can't get them off with a spanner.
Under the car I still have to remove the exhaust, prop shaft, speedo sensor & reverse sensor, clutch cylinder and gearbox support. Anything I forget, or any special tricks for those?
The manifolds are the reasaon that the engine has to come out: the bolts on the manifolds have rusted away / rounded off, so I can't get them off with a spanner.
Under the car I still have to remove the exhaust, prop shaft, speedo sensor & reverse sensor, clutch cylinder and gearbox support. Anything I forget, or any special tricks for those?
Are you changing the manifolds? I had the same problem, but I chopped through the old manifolds with a hammer and chisel (angle grinders make too much sparks...) so that I could get a decent spanner on from above. See my web diary for September 2006.
Edited by tvrgit on Friday 4th September 14:18
The engine comes out of a S3 with manifolds attached but it is very close at the front top cross member. I used an engine level thingy to adjust the angle as I removed/refitted the engine.
If the only reason to remove the engine is to replace the manifolds then it might be easier to remove the heads with the manifolds attached. Chances are that some studs will snap and it is much easier to work on removing the broken studs with the heads off the engine.
Jed
If the only reason to remove the engine is to replace the manifolds then it might be easier to remove the heads with the manifolds attached. Chances are that some studs will snap and it is much easier to work on removing the broken studs with the heads off the engine.
Jed
Jed-S said:
If the only reason to remove the engine is to replace the manifolds then it might be easier to remove the heads with the manifolds attached. Chances are that some studs will snap and it is much easier to work on removing the broken studs with the heads off the engine.
Yep that's what I was trying to say. I decided that cutting the manifold off with a chisel was preferable to even removing the heads, and between careful use of penetrating oil, not-too-brutal spanners and taking my time, I managed to get all the bolts out without snapping any.Depends why the OP wants the engine out though - maybe it's for chassis work.
The main reason to get the engine out are the manifolds: The bolts are so rusty that some of them even fit in a 11mm spanner (it looks like they should be 13mm). Not enough room for a decent socket. mole grips or an angle grinder. Sawing the manifolds off (good idea, TVRgit) will be easier with the engine out or the heads off. A benefit of taking the engine out is that I can finally clean the engine and bay, and replace the weeping oil seal on the gearbox.
Hope to get the engine out tomorrow.
Hope to get the engine out tomorrow.
I didn't want to saw or angle grind the manifolds, for fear of getting little bits of swarf inside the exhaust ports and possibly into the valves or cylinders. Chopping them off with a chisel and a big hammer means no flying bits!
If that hadn't worked, I'd have taken the heads off, rather than take the engine out, unless I was doing other things at the same time.
If that hadn't worked, I'd have taken the heads off, rather than take the engine out, unless I was doing other things at the same time.
Are you removing the engine and gearbox together? If you are the propshaft is a pig of a job, or at least it was on my S3 There was no way it would go past the diff as it states in the "bible" Also remember as you lift and tilt the engine/gearbox all your oil in the gearbox will come out where the propshaft was, i used a plastic cap of a similar diameter as a stopper, good luck,Tom.
TJC46 said:
Are you removing the engine and gearbox together? If you are the propshaft is a pig of a job, or at least it was on my S3 There was no way it would go past the diff as it states in the "bible" Also remember as you lift and tilt the engine/gearbox all your oil in the gearbox will come out where the propshaft was, i used a plastic cap of a similar diameter as a stopper, good luck,Tom.
There is a trick for the propshaft and you can remove it in under 10 minutes (once the exhaust is off) see this link steps 3 to 7 inclusivehttp://www.gbsportscar.com/gearbox%20removal.htm
What TJC says about the gearbox oil is true tough - prepare to clean the garage floor!!!!
Mark
mep12345 said:
trick for the propshaft
I'll use that when the engine goes back, thanks!
mep12345 said:
What TJC says about the gearbox oil is true tough - prepare to clean the garage floor!!!!
So I found out. Half the oil ended up in the drain pan, the rest went down my sleeve while getting the propshaft out.Engine was out yesterday just before lunch. Of the 12 exhaust bolts, one came out without a problem. The others had either rounded off, or they had seized solid so that the head of the bolt turned while the thread didn't, so I ground the heads off. This way it's possible to take the manifolds off, and it leaves the studs sticking out off the head without tension. After much use of penetrating oil, blow torch and blows of a big hammer I used vice grips to get the remains of the bolts out, but these bolts seem to be made of butter: they snap off when you do so much as look at them! So it's out with the stud extractors today.
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