Discussion
I have a small leak from the cap on the underside of the fuel outlet bowl, which has to be repaired for its now due MOT. The problem essentially (other than the rubbish design), is that the mating surfaces of both the cap and the flange of the tank are pitted due to corrosion, and therefore the rubber sealing washer will not seal. I have tried a pretty good sealing compound, but cannot remember the name right now, it might have been Hermitite blue...worked for a while, but not any more, and besides, I want a permentant solution.
One solution is to make up a new circular flange from say 5mm thk with a series of tapped holes, and weld this to the underside of the outelt. A new disc with the corresponding holes can then be bolted up to the new flange.
Another solution is to buy an aluminium tank from TVR Car parts, but apart from the actual cost, the other big problem with this tank is that you have to fit a remote filter, and replumb the fuel pipes accordingly, which is more cost and hassle, oh yes, and if the tank is low on fuel, there is a good possiblity that you`ll suffer from fuel starvation when cornering hard.
The other option I have noticed, is that a company called DC Developments can make a tank from Stainless steel, for a worthwhile amount less than the aluminium tank. Eric is the contact, who was not there due to illness when I called. Does anyone know whether this tank has the fuel outlet bowl just like the standard tank, making it a direct replacement or not? I got the impression that they simply copy the tank you supply, but as a result of this the price quoted on the "links" section, seems quite good deal. Does anyone have any experience of this route?
Many thanks
Mark
One solution is to make up a new circular flange from say 5mm thk with a series of tapped holes, and weld this to the underside of the outelt. A new disc with the corresponding holes can then be bolted up to the new flange.
Another solution is to buy an aluminium tank from TVR Car parts, but apart from the actual cost, the other big problem with this tank is that you have to fit a remote filter, and replumb the fuel pipes accordingly, which is more cost and hassle, oh yes, and if the tank is low on fuel, there is a good possiblity that you`ll suffer from fuel starvation when cornering hard.
The other option I have noticed, is that a company called DC Developments can make a tank from Stainless steel, for a worthwhile amount less than the aluminium tank. Eric is the contact, who was not there due to illness when I called. Does anyone know whether this tank has the fuel outlet bowl just like the standard tank, making it a direct replacement or not? I got the impression that they simply copy the tank you supply, but as a result of this the price quoted on the "links" section, seems quite good deal. Does anyone have any experience of this route?
Many thanks
Mark
Hi Mark
Fuel tanks are my specialist subject as they have been the bane of my life for a while.I finally got mine sorted last year:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
That thread will decribe how I repaired mine ~ it also gives recent prices for replacements (around £500+).
My problem was rust in the tank rather than a hole. I don't think that the method I used will be a permanent solution to your problem.
As far as I understand it the bowl in the bottom of the original tank is there to house the strainer (which is pretty useless in my opinion) and act as a bit of a baffle when cornering.
Whenever I see new tanks advertised they state that there is no strainer and I suppose that is why so an extra filter is required.
If you do what you propose (ie. blank off the bottom) you will end up with the same situation.
This is the filter I used:
http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=v...
Not, cheap I admit, but I couldn't find any cheaper that would accommodate the large hose diameter.
If you blankl off the bowl you would be strongly advised to fit a filter anyway. Without it you run the risk of getting muck in the pump and possibly the rest of the system. If a hole has developed in the bowl there is a strong chance that the rest of the tank is begining to corrode too.
If that is the case then you may be thinking of lining your tank anyway.
I didn't need to replumb the fuel hose ( except to put filter in) and as far as I can see there is no lessening in performance.
Another thought ~ you are using new rubber seals aren't you? I use the thick Landrover ones and they give a tight fit.
I also have a spare refurbished tank if that is of any use.
Cheers
Tim
Fuel tanks are my specialist subject as they have been the bane of my life for a while.I finally got mine sorted last year:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
That thread will decribe how I repaired mine ~ it also gives recent prices for replacements (around £500+).
My problem was rust in the tank rather than a hole. I don't think that the method I used will be a permanent solution to your problem.
As far as I understand it the bowl in the bottom of the original tank is there to house the strainer (which is pretty useless in my opinion) and act as a bit of a baffle when cornering.
Whenever I see new tanks advertised they state that there is no strainer and I suppose that is why so an extra filter is required.
If you do what you propose (ie. blank off the bottom) you will end up with the same situation.
This is the filter I used:
http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=v...
Not, cheap I admit, but I couldn't find any cheaper that would accommodate the large hose diameter.
If you blankl off the bowl you would be strongly advised to fit a filter anyway. Without it you run the risk of getting muck in the pump and possibly the rest of the system. If a hole has developed in the bowl there is a strong chance that the rest of the tank is begining to corrode too.
If that is the case then you may be thinking of lining your tank anyway.
I didn't need to replumb the fuel hose ( except to put filter in) and as far as I can see there is no lessening in performance.
Another thought ~ you are using new rubber seals aren't you? I use the thick Landrover ones and they give a tight fit.
I also have a spare refurbished tank if that is of any use.
Cheers
Tim
Edited by Elfit on Friday 9th January 20:33
Thanks Tim for your experience...I remember the thread now I have looked at it.
Suction filters are tricky things, and it is critcal they are sized correctly otherwise you end up with starvation etc....but you seem to be ok with the filter you have chosen. I for a couple of years had a problem with the car cutting out, and eventually after my other half had said "whats that strange noise", to which I replied..."nothing stupid woman, go and talk about bunny rabbits", the fuel pump failed. Doh (not much egg on my face then)!! Anyhow, I replaced the pump (fault cured), and sometime later removed the tank (probably last year for the MOT) whereupon, I found the guaze had fallen off the end of the suction pipe. This would obviously not help the fuel pumps efficiency!
I am heavily involved with fabrication and hydraulics for that matter, and I will put it to one of our fabrication suppliers, who are experts in aluminium and stainless steel, the possibility of copying the existing style tank, and obtain a price for 1 off and say 10 off...might take a week or two, but I`ll post the results if anyone is interested.
Suction filters are tricky things, and it is critcal they are sized correctly otherwise you end up with starvation etc....but you seem to be ok with the filter you have chosen. I for a couple of years had a problem with the car cutting out, and eventually after my other half had said "whats that strange noise", to which I replied..."nothing stupid woman, go and talk about bunny rabbits", the fuel pump failed. Doh (not much egg on my face then)!! Anyhow, I replaced the pump (fault cured), and sometime later removed the tank (probably last year for the MOT) whereupon, I found the guaze had fallen off the end of the suction pipe. This would obviously not help the fuel pumps efficiency!
I am heavily involved with fabrication and hydraulics for that matter, and I will put it to one of our fabrication suppliers, who are experts in aluminium and stainless steel, the possibility of copying the existing style tank, and obtain a price for 1 off and say 10 off...might take a week or two, but I`ll post the results if anyone is interested.
..... Useful links
http://www.dcdevs.co.uk/ for Stainless steel fuel tanks (£295 inc VAT) DC Developments, in Ashwellthorpe, Norfolk, NR16 1ER Contact Eric Neave, ERIC@DCDEVS.CO.UK
Make sure you follow appropriate Health & Safety precautions if you weld that tank!
http://www.dcdevs.co.uk/ for Stainless steel fuel tanks (£295 inc VAT) DC Developments, in Ashwellthorpe, Norfolk, NR16 1ER Contact Eric Neave, ERIC@DCDEVS.CO.UK
Make sure you follow appropriate Health & Safety precautions if you weld that tank!
Hi,
I originally asked DC developments to make a replacement stainless tank, after being less than impressed with the prices of alternatives (Steve Reid had stopped doing them at the time). DC Developments is a marine fabrications business not far from where I work and have done boat tanks amongst other stuff. My tank was the first S tank they had done, so I gave them mine as a pattern. They copied it very accurately, and I believe they kept all the dimensions, so they may not need another pattern. One change they did make was to replace the sealing plate locking ring (source of many seepage problems due to corrosion) with a plate located on several studs around the circumference. Obviously these need a little care when tightening to ensure an even pressure on the whole of the sealing ring, however it works very well, and hopefully will give a more reliable seal, especially if I have to remove the sender unit in the future.
These were fitted to both the sender unit hole and the bowl at the bottom of the tank (Metal ring used for sender unit, and plate for the bowl).
Dimensionally the tank was very accurate and all connections are as per the original tank.
They are a reasonable sized small business (not a one man band) so even if Eric isn't around I would have thought someone ought to be able to help you.
I originally asked DC developments to make a replacement stainless tank, after being less than impressed with the prices of alternatives (Steve Reid had stopped doing them at the time). DC Developments is a marine fabrications business not far from where I work and have done boat tanks amongst other stuff. My tank was the first S tank they had done, so I gave them mine as a pattern. They copied it very accurately, and I believe they kept all the dimensions, so they may not need another pattern. One change they did make was to replace the sealing plate locking ring (source of many seepage problems due to corrosion) with a plate located on several studs around the circumference. Obviously these need a little care when tightening to ensure an even pressure on the whole of the sealing ring, however it works very well, and hopefully will give a more reliable seal, especially if I have to remove the sender unit in the future.
These were fitted to both the sender unit hole and the bowl at the bottom of the tank (Metal ring used for sender unit, and plate for the bowl).
Dimensionally the tank was very accurate and all connections are as per the original tank.
They are a reasonable sized small business (not a one man band) so even if Eric isn't around I would have thought someone ought to be able to help you.
It would probably be a lot of hassle (its never stopped me before!) but my thoughts were that if my tank ever needed replacing I'd consider getting a tank made with no hole for the sender or outlet at the bottom and get something like a range rover fuel pump that drops in the tank from the top.
I may be talking out my ass and it wouldn't work but you get what I'm thinking (yes stupid TVR design thats what).
You'd have to mess with the wiring & fuel pipes & have the fuel pipes running in the boot to the top of the tank (through a hole in the body
) but I think it could be done.
I may be talking out my ass and it wouldn't work but you get what I'm thinking (yes stupid TVR design thats what).
You'd have to mess with the wiring & fuel pipes & have the fuel pipes running in the boot to the top of the tank (through a hole in the body
) but I think it could be done.Barkychoc said:
It would probably be a lot of hassle (its never stopped me before!) but my thoughts were that if my tank ever needed replacing I'd consider getting a tank made with no hole for the sender or outlet at the bottom and get something like a range rover fuel pump that drops in the tank from the top.
Very smart move IMO.Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff