Door Adjustment

[Gerald-TVR]

I think I'm being thick


nicked from earlier thread

I just dont see how the three bolts allow adjustment. As far as I can see the central bolt is the door hinge, is screwed through the captive nut on the plate into a captive nut in the body. First question should it turn or NOT turn with the door? What is the function of the other two bolts?

Just cant work it out D'oh

[Gerald-TVR]

Thanks Adrian

It's not Gerald but the whire fire damaged car. I will be asking you to do Gerlad's door when I ask you to do the dash (no idea whne)

Very helpful hate not understanding things

Norman

[Gerald-TVR]

Adrian

To remove the door from the body tub I would have thought that unbolting the central bolt would free the dooe BUTthey are bl:censore tight. On the near side door the bottom bolt came free fine, but when unboltinting the top it broke out the bobbin - no problem as noone seems to want the tub. The off side door is an other thing. The top bolt just wont turn except with the door the bottom bolt just turns and turns and turns - the boobin seems fixed. Would there be any benefit in undoing the two smaller bolts? Woul that help free up the pivot bolts?

Norman

[Gerald-TVR]

by hl OK noted Ta

[johnnywgk]

hi norman,
you seem to be alone on this thread, care to fill us in with
the parts that are missing from adrian, maybe he pm'd you the answers,
i tried doing my doors today, that middle bolt just keeps turning.
i think whatever its attached to inside the body has come loose.

think i read on here cutting the hinge off, but cant find it, and dont
really want to go there

cheers in advance

[Gerald-TVR]

Hi John

For personal reasons Adrian@ has removed all his responces from this and other threads so i cant fill in the missing bits too well.

But Adrian has told me he just takes an air saw (pneumatic hacksaw) to the hinge bolts then drills and taps them outdue to the extream difficulty in removing he bolts.

Its not something I would tackle, if the bobbins are loose in the shel then thats a fibreglassing jobbie. Not sure who to suggest you go to, perhaps a post on here asking who is the local S specialist. I would recommend Adrian but Coventry is a long haul for you

Norman

[Rustynail]

Hi John
Recently done both my doors and trust me all s series will eventually suffer if not already suffering from door hinge
problems!(b pillar scratch marks). The mild steel bolt used by tvr corrodes and the shank of the bolt seizes into the nylon bush causing the bolt and bobbin to turn in the body.A new bobbin and bush are available from tvrcarparts, but the bolts they supplied me were shorter with a full thread? but you need longer and stainless steel with a shank.The two bolts either side of the central bolt are just for door adjustment.Air hacksaw the main central bolts off (protect body and door).The bottom bolt and bobbin were ok on my car. I drilled around top bobbin and removed.Screw a threaded bar into the bottom bobbin by going up into the now larger hole made in the top and down into the bottom bobbin and now you can hold the top bobbin in exactly the right place!(measure location of original bobbin prior to removal).Now loosen dash to gain access inside.remove foam and 2" square fibre glass to see bobbin inside car and fibre glass new bobbin into place top and bottom and reset 2" square. When set cut bar at base and remove two halfs.Job done!. Not a job for the faint hearted but can be done if you are patient and carefull.

[johnnywgk]

cheers guys,
there's not much i wont attempt myself, but this can wait,
the doors aint that bad, adjusted them today, to stop bottom of door scraping, they'll do for now, just hope the cracking in the body dont get any
worse. i'll close the doors gently, no i'll lock them, and jump in
dukes style hehe

Edited by johnnywgk on Tuesday 17th March 10:12

[Adrian@]

Understanding the relationship between the bobbin and hinge bolt is important (IN THIS use only)...The bobbin has a 6 threads depth fibre-glassed into the shell (regardless of it being MK1 M8 or M10 MK2) and ANY bolt used as a hinge bolt should only then have 5 1/2 threads left on it so that the very first part of the shank locks onto the end of the bobbin. IF the hinge bolt does not lockout on the shank of the bolt, then you are relying on the threads to act as the pivot. In Norman's 1st picture you can see that shank length is not critical as the extension will just stick out of the bush.
Adrian@

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 17th March 09:15

[johnnywgk]

cheers for that adrian,
anyway woke up this morning, my wrists are iching like crazy, from rubbing
on the glass fibre doors, while doing the hinges, idea for next time,or anyone attempting this, stick some duct tape on inner door edge,the place where it rubs your wrists, should be much less of another horrible tvr
job, scratch scratch, this is horrible, hehe