Oh no it doesn't !
Oh no it doesn't !
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phillpot

Original Poster:

17,511 posts

213 months

Thursday 23rd April 2009
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Had a week off work to get a few jobs done on my S3, exhaust came off to repair split, prop shaft off to check uj's and thought blow it lets drop the g'box out and check clutch and change rear main oil seal (v slight leak, don't they all ? )
Anyway, contrary to what you may read in any books, gearbox WILL NOT come out from underneath, its an engine out job, unless you fancy cutting out the cross member support brackets !
Bit annoyed that such a big error was not rectified when book was re-issued read

Hoover.

5,993 posts

272 months

Friday 24th April 2009
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had an S2 4yrs ago..... and was always under the impression that you had to remove engine to take gearbox unless you cut some chasis members

shpub

8,507 posts

302 months

Friday 24th April 2009
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Ok, I've just spoken to Dave Wallis (ex of Tower View) and he has confirmed that:

It is possible to remove the gearbox without taking the engine out but the gearbox must be separated from the bell housing & the bell housing dropped out, followed by the gearbox.
It is a tricky job because of the access to the internal bolts.

The alternative is to remove the engine complete — which may be easier, depending on the facilities available.

So...

1. The description in the book needs to be clarified and the order of bolt removal changed.
2. A point about considering an engine out needs to be added.

I'll update it for the next print run and then put the updated page ( PDF) up on my website so you can print it out and include it in older copies.

In my defence, the S book was first published in 1997 and this is the first time I have heard/seen anything about this issue. Also, each edition was reviewed by around 10 owners and independents prior to publication and they didn't pick up it up.

Unless I am told about an error, I can't do anything about it. Contrary to popular belief, I don't read every TVR post on Pistonheads.

Sorry: I'm not infallible!

Edited by shpub on Friday 24th April 09:35

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

227 months

Friday 24th April 2009
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Steve the book is brillent brilliant couldnt do without it please keep up the good work, thanks

Norman (and gerald)

Edited 'cos I can't speel

Edited by Gerald-TVR on Friday 24th April 13:19

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Friday 24th April 2009
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Steve the book is a brilliant resource and I think it would be unfair to expect it to be perfect, especially given TVR's tendency to change things when they felt like it.

mep12345

2,061 posts

231 months

Friday 24th April 2009
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phillpot said:
Anyway, contrary to what you may read in any books, gearbox WILL NOT come out from underneath, its an engine out job,
Philpott,

Sorry Mate but YOU ARE WRONG

I have personnally done it see here.

It is not possible on an S2 or earlier but on the S3 and S4 with the unbolting gearbox mount IT IS POSSIBLE - it is just bcensoredy difficult. I did it in a tight garage with no ramp or pit as well and the photos are evidence.

Sorry, but I don't want others to avoid this job and do twice as much work because they are led to believe something is not possible when it clearly is.

Mark

ETA: Of course your chassis may be different to other S3s as TVR were not that reliable for consitency but your statement may only apply to your car, I know of at least 2 other S3s that have taken the box out without cutting and without engine removal, unfortunately neither are PHers (one is Portsmouth and one Plymouth based - and I assisted with both)

Edited by mep12345 on Friday 24th April 16:20

phillpot

Original Poster:

17,511 posts

213 months

Friday 24th April 2009
quotequote all
Thanks for your comments and suggestions !
Not convinced about the bell housing removal, reckon would be a pig to get bolts out and a total mother of a job to put back, but not saying couldn't be done.
As for clearing cross member brackets I thought I had engine and box dropped down as far as would go, drops down under its own weight, but maybe something was stopping it coming all the way (had removed dizzy cap) ?
In my defence, after struggling/scratching head for an hour or so did phone David Gerald and they reckoned no way without cutting out cross member brackets. But as we all know no two TVR's are the same so perhaps some will and some won't !

irked

Edited by phillpot on Friday 24th April 17:41

mep12345

2,061 posts

231 months

Friday 24th April 2009
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phillpot said:
had removed dizzy cap
Did you remove the nearside rocker cover as the oil filler spout also fouls the bulkhead as you tilt the engine back on the mounts. Also the downpipes can contact the front chassis member - mine didn't but were only a mm or so off it when fully tilted, and the ARB can also stop the engine tilt (again mine was only mm away from it - check all three for clearance.

Wrt removing the bellhousing in situ I can't see how you can get to the bolts to undo them because their heads are inside the bellhousing (and they are beedin tight) and the clutch assembly stops you getting a tool in there when the box is pulled as far to the rear as the chassis will let you - but again there may be a method I am not aware of. I did try this when I was struggling to get the box past the chassis bracket but then removed the rocker cover, tilted a bit further and hey presto it all dropped.

Mark

Edited by mep12345 on Friday 24th April 20:00

tubbystu

3,846 posts

290 months

Friday 24th April 2009
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Barkychoc said:
Steve the book is a brilliant resource and I think it would be unfair to expect it to be perfect, especially given TVR's tendency to change things when they felt like it.
Indeed. Any owner should be glad of such a well written all-encompassing manual especially for such a run small production run vehicle. Thanks Steve thumbup

Still you can't please all the people all the time can you.

To the OP. If you are unhappy with the details for this procedure, do not try and fathom the snakes nest TVR call the electrics and fuse box arrangement biggrin Or even consider thinking think about which way round the caps should go on the expansion tank and swan neck. hehe


pies

13,116 posts

286 months

Friday 24th April 2009
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tubbystu said:
do not try and fathom the snakes nest TVR call the electrics and fuse box arrangement biggrin Or even consider thinking think about which way round the caps should go on the expansion tank and swan neck. hehe
biggrin

You're a little troublemaker biggrin

tubbystu

3,846 posts

290 months

Friday 24th April 2009
quotequote all
pies said:
tubbystu said:
do not try and fathom the snakes nest TVR call the electrics and fuse box arrangement biggrin Or even consider thinking think about which way round the caps should go on the expansion tank and swan neck. hehe
biggrin

You're a little troublemaker biggrin
judge Guilty as charged hehe

phillpot

Original Poster:

17,511 posts

213 months

Friday 24th April 2009
quotequote all
Really wasn't out to knock Steves book, guess was just a bit pcensoredd off, had a bad day, couldn't get box out and having hassle bleeding brakes and sun was shining and wanted my little car back together.

Many thanks for all your advice Mark, will try again one day,maybe next time exhaust comes off to overhaul fuel tank and brackets and replace very "tired" looking fuel pipes.

Brake problem cured with one of those "easi bleed" things that pressurise reservoir, 16 quid well spent !

TJC46

2,199 posts

236 months

Saturday 25th April 2009
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The gearbox does come out, mine was a 1990 s3 and i did it twice. Its a pig of a job and you have to really tilt the engine back as far as poss and slide the complete gearbox and bellhousing out as one unit, and be careful its very heavy. Another infamous job as described in the bible is the propshaft removal. Its suppose to slide up and over the rear diff, it does but only if you undoe the various bolts and lower the diff slightly. Oh the joys of s ownership i do miss them.

mep12345

2,061 posts

231 months

Saturday 25th April 2009
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TJC46 said:
Another infamous job as described in the bible is the propshaft removal. Its suppose to slide up and over the rear diff, it does but only if you undoe the various bolts and lower the diff slightly.
yes What to do for this is also on my website, it only takes 10mins when you know how, but it took me an hour to figure out having even been given a rough description.