Waxoil tips

[Johnny P]

Hi all,

looking to waxoil over the coming weeks and as being my first time with it - just wanted any tips, ie do you remove all old waxoil first ?, if so, any tips on what you use for it (ie stiff brush/wire brush etc) ?

If not, do you hose down the underneath beforehand and then paint/spray over ?

Have seen the tip on white spirit mix to ensure the sprayer doesn't get clogged, but any other tips from you experienced guys will be much appreciated.

many thanks

[Steve H]

watching with interest as I am in same boat as OP, although I have been advised to forget Waxoyl and just Hammerite everything.

OP, I have read that it is also a good idea to waxoyl inside the outriggers as well but I am sure someone more educated will be along to confirm.

Steve

[GreenV8S]

Waxoil goes on top of the paint, not instead of. If the paint is flaking off you need to go back to metal and start again (rust inhibitor, degrease, [prime,] paint) not just wire brush and cover with waxoil.

[Steve H]

my is to wire brush and then hammerite....would that be enough?
Cheers
Steve

[Wiz]

Have a look at this company. http://www.bilthamber.com/howtoshop.html

Very good stuff the rust converter works well and the waxoil equivalent 'Dynax 50' is excellent and comes in an aerosol so easy to use.

[tvrgit]

Steve H said:

my is to wire brush and then hammerite....would that be enough?
Cheers
Steve

Hammerite won't take on top of waxoyl - you'd need to get all that off before painting - through a combination of scrapers, wire brushes, white spirit and rags. It's a messy job.

And somebody mentioned waxoyling the inside of the chassis tubes... well the idea (AIUI) was that the chassis would be sealed at manufacture - that's why everything is held on with tie wraps not self-tappers - so that there would be no moisture inside... no moisture means it can't corrode.

To waxoyl inside the tubes you'd have to drill holes, which lets moisture in... so you might do more harm than good.

[phillpot]

tvrgit said:

[
And somebody mentioned waxoyling the inside of the chassis tubes... well the idea (AIUI) was that the chassis would be sealed at manufacture - that's why everything is held on with tie wraps not self-tappers - so that there would be no moisture inside... no moisture means it can't corrode.

To waxoyl inside the tubes you'd have to drill holes, which lets moisture in... so you might do more harm than good.

BIt of a "catch 22"
until you drill a hole you don't know if dry or wet inside ! Didn't somebody on here recently mention water coming out when chassis cut for repairs but could, of course, have gotten in through rust holes.
Planning a two inch body lift soon to check out my outriggers (what I can see looks fine, but its the bit you can't see)Thought I might drill a hole, weld a nut on, pump loads of waxoyl in so that it literally sloshes around in there when accelerating/braking/cornering and can then be "re-sealed" with a short bolt and fibre washer (just the main outrigger tubes, not every tube in the chassis)

[sleeptalker]

Yes it was me that mentioned it - as part of some repairs the garage have waxoyled inside and out and found that water had gotten into a tube (about a half cup full) at some point so it was worth doing.

I can see your point though about them having been factory sealed etc!

[phillpot]

How did they seal the holes they must have drilled to squirt it in, a grommet or bung of some sort ?

[tvrgit]

phillpot said:

How did they seal the holes they must have drilled to squirt it in, a grommet or bung of some sort ?

Who, the factory? There was nothing inside the tubes - sealed = no moisture = no corrosion, simple eh?

[phillpot]

Who, the factory? There was nothing inside the tubes - sealed = no moisture = no corrosion, simple eh?
[/quote]

No, the garage that Waxoyled Sleeptalkers car