Discussion
Try Neil at TVR Car Parts http://www.tvrcarparts.com/pages/partdetail.asp?id...
Or Steve Reid http://www.classictvr.co.uk/ for Stainless
Or Steve Reid http://www.classictvr.co.uk/ for Stainless
If you are going to get one made from scratch, then why wouldn't you 'grow' a header tank onto the side. This would remove the unsightly plastic unit freeing up space above the oil filter and take out a 3 foot (1 meter if you prefer) hose.
Mike (Philpot) has repositioned his header tank on a bracket off the battery tray and I'm thinking of having my swirlpot reworked to carry the header tank.
Bob
Mike (Philpot) has repositioned his header tank on a bracket off the battery tray and I'm thinking of having my swirlpot reworked to carry the header tank.
Bob
i think im probably missing something, but isn't the header bottle needing to be positioned such that (at least the coolant level within) it is higher than the swirl pot top....otherwise it's not going to provide the head that its name suggests.....and will that not lead to air problems in the top of the engine?
apologies if ive missed the point....and sorry about the inevitible rad cap locations that are probably required to explain this to my simple brain.
bil
apologies if ive missed the point....and sorry about the inevitible rad cap locations that are probably required to explain this to my simple brain.
bil
tozerman said:
bil said:
isn't the header bottle needing to be positioned such that (at least the coolant level within) it is higher than the swirl pot top....otherwise it's not going to provide the head that its name suggests.....and will that not lead to air problems in the top of the engine?
It depends which cap he has on which 
as if the pressure cap is on the swirl pot the plastic tank becomes an expansion tank not a header tank and as long as the water level never drops to the bottom (plastic tank) when contracting the swirl pot will still suck water in and when expanding will blow water to the plastic tank when the pressure cap relieves.
If the caps are the other way around then when the engine is cold the water level will settle at the same point in each tank and both should have air in although "water locking" and the syphon effect of the expansion hose may stop this unless the cap is removed from the swirl pot; but bleeding will prove very difficult unless you overfill on refilling and accept coolant loss on first temperature cycle until the system has settled.
Crux is it should be higher using fluid system theory for either way around but it is not essential
Mark
as if the pressure cap is on the swirl pot the plastic tank becomes an expansion tank not a header tank and as long as the water level never drops to the bottom (plastic tank) when contracting the swirl pot will still suck water in and when expanding will blow water to the plastic tank when the pressure cap relieves.If the caps are the other way around then when the engine is cold the water level will settle at the same point in each tank and both should have air in although "water locking" and the syphon effect of the expansion hose may stop this unless the cap is removed from the swirl pot; but bleeding will prove very difficult unless you overfill on refilling and accept coolant loss on first temperature cycle until the system has settled.
Crux is it should be higher using fluid system theory for either way around but it is not essential
Mark
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