What to do, what to doooo?
Discussion
Ok so as you all know I wan't to beef up my S a bit, aiming for 200bhp. Now, I can go the route of the 24 valve engine, but I've heard it can be quite difficult to fit?
My other option is a former Ford race engine, same 12valve 2.9 as what I've got, just tuned up. This will drop straight in, and cost £500.
Which is the best option?
My other option is a former Ford race engine, same 12valve 2.9 as what I've got, just tuned up. This will drop straight in, and cost £500.
Which is the best option?
TVR653X said:
Ok so as you all know I wan't to beef up my S a bit, aiming for 200bhp. Now, I can go the route of the 24 valve engine, but I've heard it can be quite difficult to fit?
My other option is a former Ford race engine, same 12valve 2.9 as what I've got, just tuned up. This will drop straight in, and cost £500.
Which is the best option?
What condition is the race engine and is it a race engine..My other option is a former Ford race engine, same 12valve 2.9 as what I've got, just tuned up. This will drop straight in, and cost £500.
Which is the best option?
If it is, it won't be the most user friendly. A milder cam and a remap will aid tractiblity, and then the retuned ex-race 2.9 would be the way to go.
At £500 I would guess its a bit tired. To freshen the engine, fit fast raod rather than race cam and remap would cost around 1200GBP (+ engine purchase). I'm quite sure you won't buy and fit a cosworth engine for that.
I'm not bothered about tractiblity too much....you're talking to an aspiring W112BHG owner here, do you think practicality ever cross my mind? ;-) In all seriousness, I'll be swapping the fly wheel and clutch for the road ones, but the rest will be fine. It's got 200bhp, so it isn't ridiculously tuned. Oh, and it uses carbs, not EFI.
TVR653X said:
I'm not bothered about tractiblity too much....you're talking to an aspiring W112BHG owner here, do you think practicality ever cross my mind? ;-) In all seriousness, I'll be swapping the fly wheel and clutch for the road ones, but the rest will be fine. It's got 200bhp, so it isn't ridiculously tuned. Oh, and it uses carbs, not EFI.
It will be horri-bubble on the road - trust me...race cam and triple carbs (assume 40 dcnfs) a heavy flywheel, no pick-up below 4000 rpm.....no, don't go there. On the good side, the petrol that it will use will deprive you of the oppurtunity of ever saving for the rediculous pig ugly automotive white elephant (all IMHO of course
) you aspire to, so maybe not so bad..TVR_owner said:
TVR653X said:
I'm not bothered about tractiblity too much....you're talking to an aspiring W112BHG owner here, do you think practicality ever cross my mind? ;-) In all seriousness, I'll be swapping the fly wheel and clutch for the road ones, but the rest will be fine. It's got 200bhp, so it isn't ridiculously tuned. Oh, and it uses carbs, not EFI.
It will be horri-bubble on the road - trust me...race cam and triple carbs (assume 40 dcnfs) a heavy flywheel, no pick-up below 4000 rpm.....no, don't go there. On the good side, the petrol that it will use will deprive you of the oppurtunity of ever saving for the rediculous pig ugly automotive white elephant (all IMHO of course
) you aspire to, so maybe not so bad..magpies said:
I'm fairly certain you can buy a Cossy Scorpio (whole car) for under £250 and it wont cost more than another £3-400 to fit the engine (assuming the exhaust manifolds can be sorted - re-used / modified to fit) as this is what I'm in the middle of doing.
Yes, I've heard the exhaust manifolds can be a problem. Please keep me updated on your build. It may be the quickest and cheapest way to me getting a quicker S.You certainly can get a 24v motor for a few hundred quid, but they can be costly to rebuild, this is my last parts bill
Engine gasket set. 270
Cam cover gaskets. 50
Head bolt set. 100
Timing chain. 160
Tensioner housing assembly, good used. 80
Tensioner blade assembly good used. 180
One factory oil pump good used. 100
im upto about 3k in parts and labour so far and i've not thrown an ecu and manifolds at it yet. Ok im putting the engine is a racer and im building it for reliability rather than out and out power so Im renwing everything, but a tensioner or a cam chain failure will scrap a motor.. so its all being replaced.
The stock 24v maniolds will nbot fit a taz, not sure on the S.
Nice little article on fitting one to a Taz here
http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/project_cars_coswor...
The 24v is certainly a good engine swap, but with your knowledge of engines I'd stick to something simple that you know will go in easily to start with..
Engine gasket set. 270
Cam cover gaskets. 50
Head bolt set. 100
Timing chain. 160
Tensioner housing assembly, good used. 80
Tensioner blade assembly good used. 180
One factory oil pump good used. 100
im upto about 3k in parts and labour so far and i've not thrown an ecu and manifolds at it yet. Ok im putting the engine is a racer and im building it for reliability rather than out and out power so Im renwing everything, but a tensioner or a cam chain failure will scrap a motor.. so its all being replaced.
The stock 24v maniolds will nbot fit a taz, not sure on the S.
Nice little article on fitting one to a Taz here
http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/project_cars_coswor...
The 24v is certainly a good engine swap, but with your knowledge of engines I'd stick to something simple that you know will go in easily to start with..
Graham said:
You certainly can get a 24v motor for a few hundred quid, but they can be costly to rebuild, this is my last parts bill
Engine gasket set. 270
Cam cover gaskets. 50
Head bolt set. 100
Timing chain. 160
Tensioner housing assembly, good used. 80
Tensioner blade assembly good used. 180
One factory oil pump good used. 100
im upto about 3k in parts and labour so far and i've not thrown an ecu and manifolds at it yet. Ok im putting the engine is a racer and im building it for reliability rather than out and out power so Im renwing everything, but a tensioner or a cam chain failure will scrap a motor.. so its all being replaced.
The stock 24v maniolds will nbot fit a taz, not sure on the S.
Nice little article on fitting one to a Taz here
http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/project_cars_coswor...
The 24v is certainly a good engine swap, but with your knowledge of engines I'd stick to something simple that you know will go in easily to start with..
Interesting, that article on fitting a 24v engine. I guess it's a better bet for a simpleton like me to fit a tuned 12valve. Engine gasket set. 270
Cam cover gaskets. 50
Head bolt set. 100
Timing chain. 160
Tensioner housing assembly, good used. 80
Tensioner blade assembly good used. 180
One factory oil pump good used. 100
im upto about 3k in parts and labour so far and i've not thrown an ecu and manifolds at it yet. Ok im putting the engine is a racer and im building it for reliability rather than out and out power so Im renwing everything, but a tensioner or a cam chain failure will scrap a motor.. so its all being replaced.
The stock 24v maniolds will nbot fit a taz, not sure on the S.
Nice little article on fitting one to a Taz here
http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/project_cars_coswor...
The 24v is certainly a good engine swap, but with your knowledge of engines I'd stick to something simple that you know will go in easily to start with..
I found that by just changing the cam on mine, the performance was noticeably faster and it actually revs.
However: If you are serious on making a truly fast S, then I suggest going for it and going the 24v route. Much improved fuel economy, a more tractable engine that has a nice torque curve and lots of room for expansion. Also, keeping EFI is a bonus.
However: If you are serious on making a truly fast S, then I suggest going for it and going the 24v route. Much improved fuel economy, a more tractable engine that has a nice torque curve and lots of room for expansion. Also, keeping EFI is a bonus.
The Lukas said:
I found that by just changing the cam on mine, the performance was noticeably faster and it actually revs.
However: If you are serious on making a truly fast S, then I suggest going for it and going the 24v route. Much improved fuel economy, a more tractable engine that has a nice torque curve and lots of room for expansion. Also, keeping EFI is a bonus.
How much does changing the cam cost, and does it have to be remapped to accomodate the change? However: If you are serious on making a truly fast S, then I suggest going for it and going the 24v route. Much improved fuel economy, a more tractable engine that has a nice torque curve and lots of room for expansion. Also, keeping EFI is a bonus.
TVR653X said:
The Lukas said:
I found that by just changing the cam on mine, the performance was noticeably faster and it actually revs.
However: If you are serious on making a truly fast S, then I suggest going for it and going the 24v route. Much improved fuel economy, a more tractable engine that has a nice torque curve and lots of room for expansion. Also, keeping EFI is a bonus.
How much does changing the cam cost, and does it have to be remapped to accomodate the change? However: If you are serious on making a truly fast S, then I suggest going for it and going the 24v route. Much improved fuel economy, a more tractable engine that has a nice torque curve and lots of room for expansion. Also, keeping EFI is a bonus.
But I also advise this: If you got that money, I suggest spending it on consumables like coolant hoses, brake lines, suspension, brakes, chassis protection ect ect
The Lukas said:
TVR653X said:
The Lukas said:
I found that by just changing the cam on mine, the performance was noticeably faster and it actually revs.
However: If you are serious on making a truly fast S, then I suggest going for it and going the 24v route. Much improved fuel economy, a more tractable engine that has a nice torque curve and lots of room for expansion. Also, keeping EFI is a bonus.
How much does changing the cam cost, and does it have to be remapped to accomodate the change? However: If you are serious on making a truly fast S, then I suggest going for it and going the 24v route. Much improved fuel economy, a more tractable engine that has a nice torque curve and lots of room for expansion. Also, keeping EFI is a bonus.
But I also advise this: If you got that money, I suggest spending it on consumables like coolant hoses, brake lines, suspension, brakes, chassis protection ect ect
It's going to cost as much for new cams and remap as it will for this whole new engine. The advantage of the new engine is that I can work on the old engine whilst still keeping the car running.
ks, did you have to show me that? I take it that that engine would drop straight in? haha, another option! Arghhhh my head will explode with options!TVR653X said:
I'm not bothered about tractiblity too much....you're talking to an aspiring W112BHG owner here, do you think practicality ever cross my mind? ;-)
OK so:http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ford-sierra-cosworth-400bhp-...
K
Russ35 said:
Have a look at the thread a few down from this headed 'I'm shore I can get it to fit some how' to see what the you could end up with.
No idea what would be involved but you would have to find the space to put the turbos and I've no idea how much extra pipe work there is.
Yes, it looks very nice. I was thinking of doing something like that with the current engine, WHILST the 200bhp engine is in the car. I can run my car, but also be working on a monstrous new powerplant to put in it, and do this slowly as I gain the knowledge to do it. No idea what would be involved but you would have to find the space to put the turbos and I've no idea how much extra pipe work there is.
ketvrin said:
TVR653X said:
I'm not bothered about tractiblity too much....you're talking to an aspiring W112BHG owner here, do you think practicality ever cross my mind? ;-)
OK so:http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ford-sierra-cosworth-400bhp-...
K
I fancied this route myself as an ex Cossie owner but wanted to keep the V6... How about a Nissan 350Z engine.. 3.5L V6 280Bhp.. swap in the Engine, Gearbox and Diff..
Cheers
Damian
Cheers
Damian
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