Partial Body Lift

[Griffinr]

Just preparing for a partial body lift to repair and repaint the outriggers. Thought I would change all the body fixings to stainless first so that when I come to do the lift I know they will come out easily and quickly as I am planning to get it done over a weekend.
So far all the bolts have come out including the M12 ones next to the seat belts so am hopeful this is a sign that chassis is not too bad. (I can’t see any holes)
I need to get hold of some steel tube for the outriggers (just in case) and was wondering what others have used. I was thinking of using galvanized 38mm O/D conduit if I can get hold of any.
Also if someone could point to a good forum guide that would be useful as the search facility has been offline the last couple of times I tried.

Rob

[tvrgit]

I am just starting this job myself. There have been a couple of threads on here in the last week or so, I think I posted on one called "chassis restoration".

I am adding a "how to" as I go, to my own site at http://www.tvrgit.com (see the menus on the left hand side of the home page).

The original tubing is 1.5" ERW steel tube, 1.6mm wall thickness. I have found a local stockist who will sell it in any length I want, cost is about £20 for 6 metres, which would replace both outriggers, but (I hope) I don't need that much.

I wouldn't use galvanised steel for 3 reasons:

1. It's harder to weld to mild steel, ad for me, welding mild steel to mild steel is hard enough;

2. Welding galvanised releases a toxic gas that doesn't do you any good at all; and

3. Although I am no physicist, I wonder if that would set up a sacrificial electolytic reaction between the unprotected steel bits and the galvanised bits, leading to even more accelerated corrosion on one bit or the other?

I might be wrong about some of these (or even all of them!) but I'll stick with ordinary steel tubing.

[phillpot]

+1 for not using galv tubing,

the galv would have to be ground off to get a good weld where, for example, the body mounting triangles attach and these are the areas most prone to rust so no benefit ?

[mep12345]

I used galvanised but simply because that was what my welder suggested. It is more difficult to weld but if the welder has the correct gear (air fed mask) and welds in a freely ventilated space then it shouldn't cause a problem. With regards to galvanic corrosion this should not be an issue any more than when the galvanising is damaged, also stainless exhausts, aluminium engine parts etc all have the same effect

Mark

[S3Paulo]

Had my rear outriggers done at Guglielmi Motorsport...they charged £750 inc VAT to do both sides.
The tube they used was 14 swg which I believe is 2mm thick...thicker than existing tube.
They also welded in a short lengths of steel bar which fitted snugly within the tube giving the joins
extra strength. The welding was continuous all round the tube to prevent water ingress...leastways I hope it was.

Expensive...maybe...but then I'm a wky welder.

Paul

[TJC46]

Griffinr said:

Just preparing for a partial body lift to repair and repaint the outriggers. Thought I would change all the body fixings to stainless first so that when I come to do the lift I know they will come out easily and quickly
So far all the bolts have come out including the M12 ones next to the seat belts

Rob

Excellent idea to prep your car ready for a bodylift, and im sure refitting the stainless bolts at the body fixing points, would also be a good idea, but im sure there is a thread on here somewhere that says use mild steel for the seatbelt anchor points, as stainless can be too brittle, or am i having a "senior" moment again.

[tvrgit]

S3Paulo said:

Had my rear outriggers done at Guglielmi Motorsport...they charged £750 inc VAT to do both sides.
The tube they used was 14 swg which I believe is 2mm thick...thicker than existing tube.
They also welded in a short lengths of steel bar which fitted snugly within the tube giving the joins
extra strength. The welding was continuous all round the tube to prevent water ingress...leastways I hope it was.

Expensive...maybe...but then I'm a wky welder.

Paul

Agree, that's exactly how you would weld tube for strength, wky welder or not. Drill holes through outer tube, sleeve inside, then weld through holes to inner tube, then seam weld the outer join. You can't sleeve the outside because the body wouldn't go back on!

TJC46 said:

Excellent idea to prep your car ready for a bodylift, and im sure refitting the stainless bolts at the body fixing points, would also be a good idea, but im sure there is a thread on here somewhere that says use mild steel for the seatbelt anchor points, as stainless can be too brittle, or am i having a "senior" moment again.

Yep I am listing bolts as I go, with new stainless for the body - but as you say, I don't think you should use stainless for the seat belt mounts, too brittle under shear forces.

[mep12345]

The seat belt mounts for the buckle part are a much finer thread than the other bolts and are specifically higher rated steel. I found it a real bugger to find any and used a specialist bolt supplier in the end. Be careful though as you can "force" a standard metric thread in there quite a way before it tightens right up.

When I took the bolts to the supplier - his comment was "Ah seat belt bolts eh!!!" so clearly this is common I presume to ensure the higher tensile steel is used.

I await the greater and better informed to correct me but that is my recollection from my rebuild.

Mark

[Barkychoc]

Seat belt bolts are UNF thread - 7/16 comes to mind.
I can get hold of all metal locking nuts if you need them - but have a look somewhere like http://www.namrick.co.uk you may find they are on there.

[tvrgit]

Barkychoc said:

Seat belt bolts are UNF thread - 7/16 comes to mind.
I can get hold of all metal locking nuts if you need them - but have a look somewhere like http://www.namrick.co.uk you may find they are on there.

yes they are 7/16ths, according to the bolt list wiki up there ^^^

Namrick is a great resource - I've ordered loads of bits from there before

[Griffinr]

Thanks for the replies, I'm hoping to get the job done in a couple of weekends time if the weather's ok as I'll be working outside. All the seat belt bolts will come out and are in good nick so will re-use, just changing the body fixings to stainless. Oh and the tank filler jubilee clips as I had to cut the old ones off.
Anymore advice and tips always welcome.

[orange_dodo]

I'm thinking of doing a partial this winter so keep the information coming!!

[Griffinr]

All set for the body lift next weekend, weather permitting. One thing that’s confusing me slightly is how to remove the handbrake, do I just remove the small bolt from the ratchet plate inside the car then the pinch bolt on the lever inside the tunnel and pull the handbrake lever and pivot shaft away from the tunnel side?

Rob.

[tvrgit]

Griffinr said:

All set for the body lift next weekend, weather permitting. One thing that’s confusing me slightly is how to remove the handbrake, do I just remove the small bolt from the ratchet plate inside the car then the pinch bolt on the lever inside the tunnel and pull the handbrake lever and pivot shaft away from the tunnel side?

Rob.

Yes. That's all you do.

Took me a sodding hour just to do that though - the pinch bolt is not exactly accessible. You can (just) get to it through the gear lever hole. Don't tear the rubber gear gaiter, like I did thinking it would be easy to replace - you can't get them no more - I've been trying!

[ketvrin]

tvrgit said:

Don't tear the rubber gear gaiter, like I did thinking it would be easy to replace - you can't get them no more - I've been trying!

I fitted one from a Discovery...

K

[Griffinr]

tvrgit said:

Griffinr said:

All set for the body lift next weekend, weather permitting. One thing that’s confusing me slightly is how to remove the handbrake, do I just remove the small bolt from the ratchet plate inside the car then the pinch bolt on the lever inside the tunnel and pull the handbrake lever and pivot shaft away from the tunnel side?

Rob.

Yes. That's all you do.

Took me a sodding hour just to do that though - the pinch bolt is not exactly accessible. You can (just) get to it through the gear lever hole. Don't tear the rubber gear gaiter, like I did thinking it would be easy to replace - you can't get them no more - I've been trying!

Thanks for that, putting it back will probably be even more fun. Its Always the little jobs that cause the most trouble. Still I know all the other bolts will come out ok.

Rob.

[tvrgit]

ketvrin said:

tvrgit said:

Don't tear the rubber gear gaiter, like I did thinking it would be easy to replace - you can't get them no more - I've been trying!

I fitted one from a Discovery...

K

Kevin

I've been searching ebay, and thought that a discovery or freelander one looked close, was going to have a look at one to gauge the size (was going to ask the wife but she always underestimates).

Very helpful ta.

[phillpot]

If you are removing the fuel tank bracket you may find that the bolt heads are not exactly inline with the holes in the box section making it aukward to get a socket on.
I replaced them with stainless cap head (allen key) bolts for easier re-assembly.

Have a good look at rear diff mount while body lifted, rubber has a habit of parting company with the metal bit, its a lot easier to access the bolts into the diff with tank out.

[Griffinr]

Well today is the day for the lift, not raining yet so will get started. Got tube and plate (just in case) but it will probably need just a light dust and paint

[tvrgit]

Good luck with the lift. It's not that hard, there's plenty of advice here, and out there on various owner web sites in the "links" topic above.

I'm having a day off today. I've finished my "light dusting" with an angle grinder and wire brush, and am just about to embark on cosmetic renovation of some light surface scratches with a cutting disk, some tubing, and a welder.