Trustworthy Second-Hand car in York?
Discussion
Hi there,
I have just moved to York and am a student, and am after a cheap second hand car to use for a year or two. Obviously I have been all over the internet looking at autotrader etc but some of the deals seem too good to be true and I am wary of being ripped off. Therefore, I am after a second hand car dealer in the York CITY area that is trustworthy so I can go and view available cars at peace. Any recommendations?
What about the top gear episode where they bought 3 used cars for under £100 all road worthy and they managed this by going direct to the VW/Volvo/Ford dealer and picking up part exchange cars that they would otherwise have had to pay to get recycled?
Needs to be automatic for my partner and I have a budget of £1000 (MAX) and I know that is not much at all. I would love an old Beetle or Mini (the former of which I have back home and restored myself) but they seem pricey!
Advice very much appreciated! Thanks.
I have just moved to York and am a student, and am after a cheap second hand car to use for a year or two. Obviously I have been all over the internet looking at autotrader etc but some of the deals seem too good to be true and I am wary of being ripped off. Therefore, I am after a second hand car dealer in the York CITY area that is trustworthy so I can go and view available cars at peace. Any recommendations?
What about the top gear episode where they bought 3 used cars for under £100 all road worthy and they managed this by going direct to the VW/Volvo/Ford dealer and picking up part exchange cars that they would otherwise have had to pay to get recycled?
Needs to be automatic for my partner and I have a budget of £1000 (MAX) and I know that is not much at all. I would love an old Beetle or Mini (the former of which I have back home and restored myself) but they seem pricey!
Advice very much appreciated! Thanks.
Well I've got a good idea of places to avoid buying from, but won't mention them on the forum for name & shame reasons.
There's a cheap dealer round the back of Morrisons on Hallfield Road, similarly, Paul Garland on Lawrence Street/Hull road always has some cheap cars in. There's a 'private' trader just by the flats on Hull Road near the Shell Garage who always has something for about £500 on the road.
Feel free to PM me if you want my opinion on which garages to avoid, but I think your best bet is to buy privately - The Press might be worth a look?
Cheers,
Tom
There's a cheap dealer round the back of Morrisons on Hallfield Road, similarly, Paul Garland on Lawrence Street/Hull road always has some cheap cars in. There's a 'private' trader just by the flats on Hull Road near the Shell Garage who always has something for about £500 on the road.
Feel free to PM me if you want my opinion on which garages to avoid, but I think your best bet is to buy privately - The Press might be worth a look?
Cheers,
Tom
emu88 said:
What about the top gear episode where they bought 3 used cars for under £100 all road worthy and they managed this by going direct to the VW/Volvo/Ford dealer and picking up part exchange cars that they would otherwise have had to pay to get recycled?
Believe it or not a dealer can't do that any more as no matter how cheap they are leaving themselves open to claims under the Sale of Goods Act. Dealers used to sell cars with "trade sale, no warranty" on the paperwork or similar, now they can't do it, a trade sale is only open to a member of the trade (eg the invoice is made out to a company). It is silly I know, there are loads of buyers who would happily buy a cheap runner from a dealer on the understanding that if it broke they would be on their own. Sadly there are a higher number of idiots who would run along to Watchdog or that annoying Dominic Littlewood whining that their £500 car had only lasted 11 months before the cigarette lighter stopped working or whatever.
darkyoung1000 said:
Well I've got a good idea of places to avoid buying from, but won't mention them on the forum for name & shame reasons.
There's a cheap dealer round the back of Morrisons on Hallfield Road, similarly, Paul Garland on Lawrence Street/Hull road always has some cheap cars in. There's a 'private' trader just by the flats on Hull Road near the Shell Garage who always has something for about £500 on the road.
Feel free to PM me if you want my opinion on which garages to avoid, but I think your best bet is to buy privately - The Press might be worth a look?
Cheers,
Tom
Is the dealer behind Morrisons on Hallfield road that you mentioned called Faber Garage by any chance? If so, I'll give them a ring.There's a cheap dealer round the back of Morrisons on Hallfield Road, similarly, Paul Garland on Lawrence Street/Hull road always has some cheap cars in. There's a 'private' trader just by the flats on Hull Road near the Shell Garage who always has something for about £500 on the road.
Feel free to PM me if you want my opinion on which garages to avoid, but I think your best bet is to buy privately - The Press might be worth a look?
Cheers,
Tom
markmullen said:
Believe it or not a dealer can't do that any more as no matter how cheap they are leaving themselves open to claims under the Sale of Goods Act. Dealers used to sell cars with "trade sale, no warranty" on the paperwork or similar, now they can't do it, a trade sale is only open to a member of the trade (eg the invoice is made out to a company).
It is silly I know, there are loads of buyers who would happily buy a cheap runner from a dealer on the understanding that if it broke they would be on their own. Sadly there are a higher number of idiots who would run along to Watchdog or that annoying Dominic Littlewood whining that their £500 car had only lasted 11 months before the cigarette lighter stopped working or whatever.
Hmm that's annoying, so I guess the dealers now have to pay to get them recycled if they can't shift them.It is silly I know, there are loads of buyers who would happily buy a cheap runner from a dealer on the understanding that if it broke they would be on their own. Sadly there are a higher number of idiots who would run along to Watchdog or that annoying Dominic Littlewood whining that their £500 car had only lasted 11 months before the cigarette lighter stopped working or whatever.
The guy I bought my 3.0 V6 Honda Accord coupe from has another one for sale, but it's a bit above your budget, at £1400, but if you EVER wanted a reliable car, this is it ! Mine has had an extra 25000 miles put on it this year, and not missed a beat, nor cost me anything other than oil and filter changes.
Local to York too !
Local to York too !
It's the dealer opposite Faber Garage that I mean Hallfield Road Motors (http://g.co/maps/zz2ug) - plenty of cheapness there (although I've never bought anything from him).
A friend of mine works at Faber though, and they can be pretty good for the run of the mill repair work.
Good luck,
Cheers,
Tom
A friend of mine works at Faber though, and they can be pretty good for the run of the mill repair work.
Good luck,
Cheers,
Tom
darkyoung1000 said:
It's the dealer opposite Faber Garage that I mean Hallfield Road Motors (http://g.co/maps/zz2ug) - plenty of cheapness there (although I've never bought anything from him).
A friend of mine works at Faber though, and they can be pretty good for the run of the mill repair work.
Good luck,
Cheers,
Tom
Well damn, I walked all the way to Faber garage but it didn't seem right, so I walked home. I missed the one right opposite filled with used cars! Thanks, I'll give them a ring.A friend of mine works at Faber though, and they can be pretty good for the run of the mill repair work.
Good luck,
Cheers,
Tom
Well I have found a nice car and will go and see it this afternoon:
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2011...
I have done the vehicle check via autotrader (paid for it) and it said No Adverse Data has been Recorded. The mileage checks out too.
It does say 'Vehicle Check Data Insurance has not been registered against this vehicle.' and 'If you purchase this vehicle we recommend that you register the insurance.' What does this mean?
It also says I should also confirm the VIN which I would have to ring up the seller for again, is this neccessary or is it a bit of a cheek to ask for over the phone?
I Google mapped the address on the dealers website and a residential street came up with some semidetatched house marked. Something to be concerned about? When I rang up the guy did say that the car is currently on council property as all his other vehicles seem to be, so he doesn't seem to have a showroom as such, but his website looks proper. He also mentioned I could leave a small deposit to reserve the car for a bit but would lose it if the car sold afterwards. Are these things I ought to be concerned about?
Seeing as the check done via Autotrader came out all ok and matched the advert and the guys descriptions, I guess I am safe?
Thanks in advance!
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2011...
I have done the vehicle check via autotrader (paid for it) and it said No Adverse Data has been Recorded. The mileage checks out too.
It does say 'Vehicle Check Data Insurance has not been registered against this vehicle.' and 'If you purchase this vehicle we recommend that you register the insurance.' What does this mean?
It also says I should also confirm the VIN which I would have to ring up the seller for again, is this neccessary or is it a bit of a cheek to ask for over the phone?
I Google mapped the address on the dealers website and a residential street came up with some semidetatched house marked. Something to be concerned about? When I rang up the guy did say that the car is currently on council property as all his other vehicles seem to be, so he doesn't seem to have a showroom as such, but his website looks proper. He also mentioned I could leave a small deposit to reserve the car for a bit but would lose it if the car sold afterwards. Are these things I ought to be concerned about?
Seeing as the check done via Autotrader came out all ok and matched the advert and the guys descriptions, I guess I am safe?
Thanks in advance!
The Micra is running well, done a 170 mile round trip in it and it was fine. Going to drive down to London soon though and tomorrow I'll do a check on all the fluids, but I know the oil is a dark brown colour so I reckon I ought to change the oil. Any good, reliable garages in the Holgate area of York anyone can recommend doing it at short notice? (ie. tomorrow)
Can someone answer any or all of the below for me please?
Taking into account the car passed it's MOT in early October 2011, I have the following concerns:
1. The oil level is fine but the colour is darkish. Should be okay though as it passed it's MOT?
2. The brake fluid level AND automatic trans fluid are both filled to OVER the max mark. Is this bad? Should I draw out some from the filler resevoir.
3. I know the colour of auto trans fluid should be pinky red. Mine is darker. Bad?
4. When I turn the ignition on, various dash lights come on and then go out when the engine starts. HOWEVER, when I read the cars manual, it listed some lights that should be lit when the ignition is on that are NOT lit on mine. Issue or is the manual just a general one for various models?
Thanks in advance!
Taking into account the car passed it's MOT in early October 2011, I have the following concerns:
1. The oil level is fine but the colour is darkish. Should be okay though as it passed it's MOT?
2. The brake fluid level AND automatic trans fluid are both filled to OVER the max mark. Is this bad? Should I draw out some from the filler resevoir.
3. I know the colour of auto trans fluid should be pinky red. Mine is darker. Bad?
4. When I turn the ignition on, various dash lights come on and then go out when the engine starts. HOWEVER, when I read the cars manual, it listed some lights that should be lit when the ignition is on that are NOT lit on mine. Issue or is the manual just a general one for various models?
Thanks in advance!
emu88 said:
Can someone answer any or all of the below for me please?
Taking into account the car passed it's MOT in early October 2011, I have the following concerns:
1. The oil level is fine but the colour is darkish. Should be okay though as it passed it's MOT?
2. The brake fluid level AND automatic trans fluid are both filled to OVER the max mark. Is this bad? Should I draw out some from the filler resevoir.
3. I know the colour of auto trans fluid should be pinky red. Mine is darker. Bad?
4. When I turn the ignition on, various dash lights come on and then go out when the engine starts. HOWEVER, when I read the cars manual, it listed some lights that should be lit when the ignition is on that are NOT lit on mine. Issue or is the manual just a general one for various models?
1. Oil can go dark within days of it being changed, as it picks up carbon and metal oxides etc Taking into account the car passed it's MOT in early October 2011, I have the following concerns:
1. The oil level is fine but the colour is darkish. Should be okay though as it passed it's MOT?
2. The brake fluid level AND automatic trans fluid are both filled to OVER the max mark. Is this bad? Should I draw out some from the filler resevoir.
3. I know the colour of auto trans fluid should be pinky red. Mine is darker. Bad?
4. When I turn the ignition on, various dash lights come on and then go out when the engine starts. HOWEVER, when I read the cars manual, it listed some lights that should be lit when the ignition is on that are NOT lit on mine. Issue or is the manual just a general one for various models?
2. A little bit over is fine so long as it doesn't spill.
3. No idea. Is the transmission slipping or reluctant to kick down?
4. Which lights specifically? Handbrake?
5. The MoT is solely concerned with vehicle safety and emissions. It isn't a service, they don't check levels, quality etc.
6. I would expect an oil change at a local garage using generic oil to be about half what you quoted.
Thanks a lot Tom for the offer! I may well take you up on it.
Well, we did the 380 mile round trip to London and back to York. It was not uneventful:
1. Drove fine for over 2 hours, then the orange engine shaped light came on on the dash. Quickly looked it up in the manual and it said that it indicated a possible malfunction with the emissions control system and that while the car was still drivable, I ought to get it sorted to avoid damage to the emissions control system. Got to London, next morning started up car and the light stayed on after engine started, but then went off 5 mins later or so and stayed off all the way back to York. What are your thought on this?? Emission stuff doesn't sound as though it has any bearing on the safety or functionality of the car to me - plus the light has gone off now.
2. On the return journey however, different issues arose: Drove back fine for 1 hour, went up to 80mph comfortably. Then stopped for lunch for 20 mins, got back in car, turned key but it just cranked over and ALMOST started. Tried a few times and eventually got it started by just revving whilst turning the key. Had to keep on the gas for a few mins to keep it idling by itself. Could this be a battery issue, low voltage hence the starter spins slower? I say this because now only the fastest setting on the heater works (used to be fastest 2 settings) and because when I turned on the rear window de-mister the engine seemed to struggle a little at idle.
After it started, drove it home with no issues whatsoever for the last 2 hours, so now it appears fine..
The t
t that sold the car to me failed to mention the heater not working on most of the settings, the drivers door speaker working intermittently and now I am beginning to suspect gave the car to me with a host of other hidden problems.
I am thinking of taking it for a service at Kwik Fit to get the oil changed, fluids changed and electrical faults fixed. Any advice, possible causes and simple remedies for the above - and how much I should worry - would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Well, we did the 380 mile round trip to London and back to York. It was not uneventful:
1. Drove fine for over 2 hours, then the orange engine shaped light came on on the dash. Quickly looked it up in the manual and it said that it indicated a possible malfunction with the emissions control system and that while the car was still drivable, I ought to get it sorted to avoid damage to the emissions control system. Got to London, next morning started up car and the light stayed on after engine started, but then went off 5 mins later or so and stayed off all the way back to York. What are your thought on this?? Emission stuff doesn't sound as though it has any bearing on the safety or functionality of the car to me - plus the light has gone off now.
2. On the return journey however, different issues arose: Drove back fine for 1 hour, went up to 80mph comfortably. Then stopped for lunch for 20 mins, got back in car, turned key but it just cranked over and ALMOST started. Tried a few times and eventually got it started by just revving whilst turning the key. Had to keep on the gas for a few mins to keep it idling by itself. Could this be a battery issue, low voltage hence the starter spins slower? I say this because now only the fastest setting on the heater works (used to be fastest 2 settings) and because when I turned on the rear window de-mister the engine seemed to struggle a little at idle.
After it started, drove it home with no issues whatsoever for the last 2 hours, so now it appears fine..
The t
t that sold the car to me failed to mention the heater not working on most of the settings, the drivers door speaker working intermittently and now I am beginning to suspect gave the car to me with a host of other hidden problems.I am thinking of taking it for a service at Kwik Fit to get the oil changed, fluids changed and electrical faults fixed. Any advice, possible causes and simple remedies for the above - and how much I should worry - would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Engine light can be a number of things but if gone off don't worry too much. You could get the fault codes read if you were worried.
When did it last have a new battery? Is it charging ok? Google how to check or Kwik Fit will do it... But personally I would take it to a local garage rather than that lot.
When did it last have a new battery? Is it charging ok? Google how to check or Kwik Fit will do it... But personally I would take it to a local garage rather than that lot.
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