trailer brake set up help

[Setch993]

Hi all

Got back into rallying and have bought a twin axle trailer that needs a bit of work (bought from a reliable source).
It has a Bradley Hydatow hitch, which operates a rod system, which in turn operates cams within the brake hubs (all 4 wheels).
Just stripped all the brakes ready for new shoes and freed all the cranks and rods etc,

Any body got any tips on basic set up ?

Cheers

Nick

Edited by Setch993 on Monday 7th December 17:51

[Jez64]

My next door neighbour services trailers, can ask him tomorrow if you want?

[Setch993]

Jez64 said:

My next door neighbour services trailers, can ask him tomorrow if you want?

Thanks Jez64

That would be helpful.
I suspect it will be easier to do rather than explain ?
I might end up getting your neighbour to sort if I struggle (where in Yorks are you)?

Nick

[Jez64]

Not had chance to see him today, will try again tomorrow.

Setch993 said:

Where in Yorks are you?

Near Halifax.

[oliverjthomas]

Firstly, wire brush all the backing plates and the internal faces of the hubs. Once the new shoes are in, give all the springs and the actuator arm a coat of copper grease to keep them lubricated. Copper grease doesn't tend to run off and get onto the contact faces like other lubricants.

Once everything is built back up, (don't forget to pack the wheel bearing with grease), check the bowden cables that are running to each hub to make sure they're all operating freely. Frost Restoration will supply an oiler for the cables, but in my honest opinion it's better to replace them if they're refusing to move. It'll only cause problems later.

I've not had recent experience working on anything with a Bradley, so this bit presumes you're on auto-reverse brakes that are similar to the Avonride, etc. You should have an adjuster on the back of each wheel hub, or an access hole on the back of each that allows you to insert a screwdriver and turn the tensioner. Put the handbrake on an adjust the adjuster / tensioner wheel on each hub until the brakes bite. At this point you shouldn't be able to turn the wheel in the forward direction with a reasonable amount of force applied. You now know the brakes are working, but you need to check the auto-reverse dis-engagement. Turn the wheel in therverse direction and it should slip slightly and then stop. If it won't move at all, back off the adjuster / wheel tensioner slightly, but make sure the wheel still doesn't rotate in the forward direction. I generally use the spanner or socket on the hub retaining nut to turn the wheel in the revese direction, because it should take a reasonable amount of force to dis-engage the brake in order to reverse the trailer. Once you know the wheels won't rotate forward but will slip backwards slightly and then stop, you're done.

Depending on what type of hubs you're dealing with, you may or may not have a split-pin that retains the hub onto the shaft. If there isn't a split-pin, it's a fair bet that if you examine the top of the nut, it will be slightly oval. If this is the case, you'd be advised to replace the nuts, because they're supposed to be a one shot deal and you don't know how many times they've been used on a second hand trailer.

[Setch993]

oliverjthomas said:

Firstly, wire brush all the backing plates and the internal faces of the hubs. Once the new shoes are in, give all the springs and the actuator arm a coat of copper grease to keep them lubricated. Copper grease doesn't tend to run off and get onto the contact faces like other lubricants.

Once everything is built back up, (don't forget to pack the wheel bearing with grease), check the bowden cables that are running to each hub to make sure they're all operating freely. Frost Restoration will supply an oiler for the cables, but in my honest opinion it's better to replace them if they're refusing to move. It'll only cause problems later.

I've not had recent experience working on anything with a Bradley, so this bit presumes you're on auto-reverse brakes that are similar to the Avonride, etc. You should have an adjuster on the back of each wheel hub, or an access hole on the back of each that allows you to insert a screwdriver and turn the tensioner. Put the handbrake on an adjust the adjuster / tensioner wheel on each hub until the brakes bite. At this point you shouldn't be able to turn the wheel in the forward direction with a reasonable amount of force applied. You now know the brakes are working, but you need to check the auto-reverse dis-engagement. Turn the wheel in therverse direction and it should slip slightly and then stop. If it won't move at all, back off the adjuster / wheel tensioner slightly, but make sure the wheel still doesn't rotate in the forward direction. I generally use the spanner or socket on the hub retaining nut to turn the wheel in the revese direction, because it should take a reasonable amount of force to dis-engage the brake in order to reverse the trailer. Once you know the wheels won't rotate forward but will slip backwards slightly and then stop, you're done.

Depending on what type of hubs you're dealing with, you may or may not have a split-pin that retains the hub onto the shaft. If there isn't a split-pin, it's a fair bet that if you examine the top of the nut, it will be slightly oval. If this is the case, you'd be advised to replace the nuts, because they're supposed to be a one shot deal and you don't know how many times they've been used on a second hand trailer.

Brilliant, thanks very much..
I now have the brakes in bits and refurbing. Will refit as you describe and hope all goes well.

Excellent support, thanks again

Nick