Locating a septic tank
Discussion
Has anyone got any advice on how to locate a septic tank? My drains appear to be blocked and the problem seems to stem from either the septic tank being full or a blockage in one of the connecting pipes. However, I've only got a general location for where it is. I've checked the land register plans and it's not included on there (it's an old property). Any ideas?
If it's an old tank, it probably has either a relatively large concrete or metal cover. Work out likely targets (any areas that show remarkably good grass/plant growth might hint to it being slightly above that spot). Get a spade/fork out and stab the areas hard to see if you hit anything. There obviously ought to be a fall to the tank and it will likely be some distance away.
Before you do anything find out what kind of tank it is.
Our old house had a 1960s concrete one with the lid made of 3 large slabs.
I spent a weekend uncovering it (the previous owner had buried it under about 3 feet of soil and some pavement edging slabs) and prising off one of the lid sections so we could get it emptied.
After it was emptied - for £200 - we still had a blockage and called a local plumber who told us it was a lifetime zero maintenance tank and it would simply need the pipes 'rodded' which he did for about £70.
There should be an access hole with a 6 inch square cover somewhere near where the soil pipe comes out of the house.
If you look inside it the pipe goes straight down but should then curve where it joins the soil pipe.
You might also have a larger inspection cover a bit closer to the tank that you can lift off (well, if it's concrete like ours was you can hurt your back moving it to the side) and there will be a chamber underneath with a simple lift off cover to the soil pipe.
Our one of these was full to the brim of something very unpleasant due to the blockage.
Buy a clothes peg for your nose
Our old house had a 1960s concrete one with the lid made of 3 large slabs.
I spent a weekend uncovering it (the previous owner had buried it under about 3 feet of soil and some pavement edging slabs) and prising off one of the lid sections so we could get it emptied.
After it was emptied - for £200 - we still had a blockage and called a local plumber who told us it was a lifetime zero maintenance tank and it would simply need the pipes 'rodded' which he did for about £70.
There should be an access hole with a 6 inch square cover somewhere near where the soil pipe comes out of the house.
If you look inside it the pipe goes straight down but should then curve where it joins the soil pipe.
You might also have a larger inspection cover a bit closer to the tank that you can lift off (well, if it's concrete like ours was you can hurt your back moving it to the side) and there will be a chamber underneath with a simple lift off cover to the soil pipe.
Our one of these was full to the brim of something very unpleasant due to the blockage.
Buy a clothes peg for your nose
The wastewater your home produces is referred to as effluent and consists of blackwater (toilet waste) and greywater (kitchen, shower, sink, and laundry waste). Effluent flows directly from your house into a "watertight", underground, two compartment (chamber) septic tank. Solid waste settles into a sludge layer on the bottom and fats float to the top of the first compartment. Between these two scum layers is a zone of clarified liquid effluent which is internally piped to the second compartment of the septic tank for additional settling. As incoming sewage from the house fills the first compartment, clarified liquids are forced to leave the second chamber of the septic tank and flow out to the leach field or leach pit. The typical leach field is a series of shallow rock filled trenches where effluent is "purified" as it slowly percolates through the soil. A leach pit is a deeper, larger hole filled with rock for disposing of wastewater.
The most common causes of older twin chamber tanks failing is a blocked inlet or a blocked internal feed between chambers and occasionaly a blocked outlet. A properly functioning twin chamber tank which is healthy and digesting solids should never need emptying.
Open the tank and check there is flow between the chambers and that the inlet and outlets are clear. If the blockage is further up the inlet pipe try and find a rodding eye along the fall pipe. If not accessible then try rodding from the inlet back along the fall pipe. Do not use a powerwasher, hosepipe or other pressure device in this direction (towards the house) unless you want to redecorate!
Hope this is of some help.
The most common causes of older twin chamber tanks failing is a blocked inlet or a blocked internal feed between chambers and occasionaly a blocked outlet. A properly functioning twin chamber tank which is healthy and digesting solids should never need emptying.
Open the tank and check there is flow between the chambers and that the inlet and outlets are clear. If the blockage is further up the inlet pipe try and find a rodding eye along the fall pipe. If not accessible then try rodding from the inlet back along the fall pipe. Do not use a powerwasher, hosepipe or other pressure device in this direction (towards the house) unless you want to redecorate!
Hope this is of some help.
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