Discussion
I anm having a new swan neck made for my 400 but the chap doing the job has told me 35mm pipe is not something that they stock and will 38mm be ok?
Bearing in mind the outlet from the thermostat is 38mm do you think this would be a problem or even a benefit? Would the extra size pipe cause less pressure in the system? I have no cooling problems at all this is purley cosmetic, although when the original was removed the build up of rust on the seams inside the pipe could cause blocked cores in the rad when they break loose!
Cheers
Andy
Bearing in mind the outlet from the thermostat is 38mm do you think this would be a problem or even a benefit? Would the extra size pipe cause less pressure in the system? I have no cooling problems at all this is purley cosmetic, although when the original was removed the build up of rust on the seams inside the pipe could cause blocked cores in the rad when they break loose!
Cheers
Andy
I would strongly advise against a swan neck, They bring no luck what so ever... Stick with the more traditional rabbits foot or even try throwing some salt behind you....!!! I personaly make sure i put my right sock and shoe on first in the morning this will almost garantee my car wedge makes it to work, It has not let me down yet...Good luck...!!!
The cooling system on my wedge is currently being upgraded in a number of ways - one of which is increasing pipework diameter wherever possible. It was found that several reducers / couplers and various fittings were severely restricting flow with some of them being DIY plumbing fittings that reduced what should have been a 20mm i.d. pipe connection down to 8mm.
Won't have any effect on pressure as the system is closed and the amount of air available for expansion and the pressure cap rating are the only things that will affect that.
Will provide less resistance to the water pump which should improve flow through the system which is neither here nor there if it is working ok (will lower rad inlet temp and increase rad outlet temp slightly)but will help if cooling was borderline.
Won't have any effect on pressure as the system is closed and the amount of air available for expansion and the pressure cap rating are the only things that will affect that.
Will provide less resistance to the water pump which should improve flow through the system which is neither here nor there if it is working ok (will lower rad inlet temp and increase rad outlet temp slightly)but will help if cooling was borderline.
AM400 said:
I anm having a new swan neck made for my 400 but the chap doing the job has told me 35mm pipe is not something that they stock and will 38mm be ok?
Cheers
Andy
I would have thought so. The Otter switch is not the easiest of things to replace. On my car the factory welded the rad shut and fitted a threaded otter switch in the swan neck similar to the Griff to mine. They also mentioned that it was better to measure the water temp as it exits the cyl head.
19560 said:As before, I don't understand this. Measuring the temperature of the water as it exits the cylinder-head gives no indication of the cooling efficiency of the radiator at the time. The water temperature exiting the radiator could be (say) 70C and if the input temperature is (say) 140C, then the radiator is very efficient and no additional cooling is needed. Overcooling is almost a bad as undercooling and an "extreme" thermal gradient across the engine can't be good for the engine. Doesn't make sense to me. What do others think? - Streaky
... On my car the factory welded the rad shut and fitted a threaded otter switch in the swan neck similar to the Griff to mine. They also mentioned that it was better to measure the water temp as it exits the cyl head.
Streaky I know that you raised concerns last time; consider also that the later engines (Griff and Chimp) measure the temp at the end of the cylinder head. Two further points seem to come into play: the cooling system will only knock a few degrees off the temp, not 70 and if the temp is too high then it is important to cool it as fast as possible - the possiblility of thermal shock will not arise.
The figures I used were extreme for illustrative purposes. I accept that with certain engines it is important to measure cylinder-head temperature because of the risk of distortion caused by overheating but in normal use, a radiator fan is only needed when the vehicle is (generally) either stationary or slow-moving preventing natural airflow through the radiator. If the fan is needed to cool the radiator when the vehicle is travelling at better than (about) 20mph, then there is likely something wrong with the design, construction or maintenance of the cooling system.
I'm not an expert, but it still seems to me that switching the fan on the basis of radiator return temperature is more "appropriate" than switching it on the basis of cylinder-head temperature. After all, the temperature starts dropping the moment the water leaves the cylinder-head and continues dropping across the radiator.
Anyway, I'll let the factory have their way. Mind you, they took the otter switch out of mine when they replaced the radiator in the early '90s! There's only an "override" switch which the driver can use to turn the fans on whilst monitoring the temperature gauge.
Streaky
I'm not an expert, but it still seems to me that switching the fan on the basis of radiator return temperature is more "appropriate" than switching it on the basis of cylinder-head temperature. After all, the temperature starts dropping the moment the water leaves the cylinder-head and continues dropping across the radiator.
Anyway, I'll let the factory have their way. Mind you, they took the otter switch out of mine when they replaced the radiator in the early '90s! There's only an "override" switch which the driver can use to turn the fans on whilst monitoring the temperature gauge.
Streaky
- Streakychunder said:
The cooling system on my wedge is currently being upgraded in a number of ways - one of which is increasing pipework diameter wherever possible. It was found that several reducers / couplers and various fittings were severely restricting flow with some of them being DIY plumbing fittings that reduced what should have been a 20mm i.d. pipe connection down to 8mm.
Won't have any effect on pressure as the system is closed and the amount of air available for expansion and the pressure cap rating are the only things that will affect that.
Will provide less resistance to the water pump which should improve flow through the system which is neither here nor there if it is working ok (will lower rad inlet temp and increase rad outlet temp slightly)but will help if cooling was borderline.
Cheers for that Chunder, looks like I will be going for the larger pipe then.
Andy
dickymint said:
Just a thought, why not use some nice coloured hose?
with a very short section of pipe for the cap. Make it easier to expel the air maybe.
Its going to be mirror finished stainless steel but I have got silicon hoses lined up for both ends
>> Edited by AM400 on Friday 28th May 11:00
AM400 said:What's he charging and will he make more? - Streaky
Just a thought, why not use some nice coloured hose?
with a very short section of pipe for the cap. Make it easier to expel the air maybe.
Its going to be mirror finished stainless steel but I have got silicon hoses lined up for both ends
>> Edited by AM400 on Friday 28th May 11:00
streaky said:
dickymint said:
Just a thought, why not use some nice coloured hose?
with a very short section of pipe for the cap. Make it easier to expel the air maybe.
Its going to be mirror finished stainless steel but I have got silicon hoses lined up for both ends
>> Edited by AM400 on Friday 28th May 11:00
What's he charging and will he make more? - Streaky
I will let you know when I get it back.
Andy
Has anybody got old pipes i can have to take a pattern from in exchange for polished stainless at 1/2 price ? the wedge series are the only model that we don't yet do these swan necks for, not very good seing as i am meant to be a wedge enthusiast 
Also old flexi brake lines would be appreciated for patterns (as above)
Cheers Tim
Also old flexi brake lines would be appreciated for patterns (as above)
Cheers Tim
2 sheds said:
Has anybody got old pipes i can have to take a pattern from in exchange for polished stainless at 1/2 price ? the wedge series are the only model that we don't yet do these swan necks for, not very good seing as i am meant to be a wedge enthusiast
Also old flexi brake lines would be appreciated for patterns (as above)
Cheers Tim
How long do you need it for Tim?
if its not too long then I can post you one next week.
2 sheds said:
Has anybody got old pipes i can have to take a pattern from in exchange for polished stainless at 1/2 price ? the wedge series are the only model that we don't yet do these swan necks for, not very good seing as i am meant to be a wedge enthusiast
Also old flexi brake lines would be appreciated for patterns (as above)
Cheers Tim
I did look on your site Tim because I know you do the Griff pipes, I should have given you a call, half price sounds good ! Bottom hose would definately be of interest. I will be in touch for the silicon hoses though.
Andy
>> Edited by AM400 on Friday 28th May 19:20
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