Discussion
Well got it all boxed back together and apart from a petrol leak and exhaust blowing at offside manifold there are no leaks and everything seems to be fine. Heaters started working at about 90 deg and stayed warm. Then after i pulled over to check for oil leaks water leaks after about 4 miles it wouldnt start. Managed to locate a bear wire on the dizzy, insulated and it fired up. Made my way home and then it started bubbling and hissing. Got it home and the overflow was lashing water out sameish symptoms as before the gaskets change. So i filled it back up this time with 4 litres of antifreeze. and let it tick over. no overheating but truth be told i didnt leave it ticking over for very long. Sick as a parrot now dont know which way to turn.
A very P
d off Dix
A very P
d off DixWell Dix in my limited experience perhaps there was an airlock/low coolant after you put everything back together? You say you've topped it up and left it ticking over with no problems? Try taking the radiator/expansion tank cap off and give all the large hoses a good squeeze whilst its ticking over from cold. See what happens to the coolant level.
It worked for me once on a 6 cylinder Bond Equipe
Jimbo
It worked for me once on a 6 cylinder Bond Equipe
Jimbo
Sheesh Dix...Please let it be an air lock for all the trouble you have had..Did you fill it up slowly after it was put back together and bleed it with the fan on hot whilst it was warming up..Leaving the header tank cap off untill warmed then replacing it before you switch off..Did you find out what caused the gasket to go initially as if something wasnt fixed it would only happen again..I really hope not..ziga
Get the front of the car higher than the back. Start her from cold with the swan neck cap off. Run her almost up to temp like this to try & chase the bubbles out. Raise the revs periodically to try & coax them out. This is how I refilled mine after Head Gaskets. 
P.S. Double up the exhaust manifold gaskets to get a good seal. Another 'learn by experience' jobbie.
P.S. Double up the exhaust manifold gaskets to get a good seal. Another 'learn by experience' jobbie.
Squeezing the bottom and top hoses to the rad will help force air up - when doing this you should also be able to hear the jiggle pin in the thermostat rattling - caused by the pressure of the water. Leaving the header tank cap off, with only about half the normal water level is the way to bleed it. Run it up to temp, raising the revs from the engine bay so you can keep an eye on the level in the tank. When it gets near the top, put the cap on and leave it to get hot enough to let the fan kick in. Let it cool and top up the tank. Some people use high temp silicon sealant instead of exhaust manifold gaskets now - haven't had the need to try it yet but I will next time I need to. Good luck.
There was a hell of a lot of air in the system when I got home it seemed to vent for ages. I am going to have to have q look at the radiator make sure there are nn blockages and dead flies arnt blocking the airways. it was really dis heartening 5o see the water bubble out. oh aye and the exhaust manifold that is leaking is the awkward one strange that eh.
dix
dix
I would get the airlocks sorted out and then let it warm up on idle till the fan cuts in. I fill up via the small hose to the expansion tank to force air out of the system.
Whie it's warming up make sure the top hose gets hot after 5-10 mins (means the thermostat is opening) and then after the fan cuts in make sure the temperature gets pulled back down to 90.
Check for leaks when it's all nice and hot - might just be a jubilee clip is a little loose.
Whie it's warming up make sure the top hose gets hot after 5-10 mins (means the thermostat is opening) and then after the fan cuts in make sure the temperature gets pulled back down to 90.
Check for leaks when it's all nice and hot - might just be a jubilee clip is a little loose.
Let us pray...Dear TVR lord we ask you in the name of BBWF to have mercy on all that travel forth on this arduous journey and to not bring dismay upon us but disjuly..Please forgive any miss givings and grant a safe passage as im sure miss and grant didnt mean it..May our radiators like our cups not runneth over..For waste is no good for any man nor beast and will destroy thy sole of shoe..Bless thy father for not sneezing on thy hog roast..Ah Wedge.
Well..I have tried so i hope it has a positive effect..Im not a religous man as you can tell but you never know..
Seriously though i hope everyone gets there without any probs..Good luck dix and hope you can sort it mate..Ziga
Well..I have tried so i hope it has a positive effect..Im not a religous man as you can tell but you never know..
Seriously though i hope everyone gets there without any probs..Good luck dix and hope you can sort it mate..Ziga
I have a feeling this could be more than an air lock. Going back to where all the problems started in blackpool. The oil pressure warning light come on a few times but I put that down to being such a warm day. Yesterday on that small run I noticed it come on again just once but it did and when I was under the car on Sunday I noticed oil all over the chassis tubes at the rear of the car. Also the oil pressure seems lower than it used to sitting at about 1.5 bar but rises over 2 when you rev it. After I changed the thermostat things have never been right so I'm going to change it back to the origional one and pressure wash the radiator anybody tell me if the oil pressure drop on idle can be linked to the engine overheating I am now completly lost and beginning to think the head gasket wasnt the problem in the first place. Getting really disheartened now help greatly appreciated lads.
Dix
Dix
The oil pressure sounds fine - you should get just over 2 bar at 2000 rpm.
The oil pressure is related to the engine temp, yes, but don't get too hung up about getting it higher, it just means it's slightly thinner.
As for the leaks - if you're not losing much oil it won't affect the pressure. Try nipping up the sump bolts and clean the air breather on the rocker and the pipes scavenging air.
The oil pressure is related to the engine temp, yes, but don't get too hung up about getting it higher, it just means it's slightly thinner.
As for the leaks - if you're not losing much oil it won't affect the pressure. Try nipping up the sump bolts and clean the air breather on the rocker and the pipes scavenging air.
I have fitted a bleed valve to the 400 heater return, 350 is different with regards level of pipe work so not sure if it is worth it. Also, advice from here a few years ago and last time I had the pipes off I back filled through the heater matrix, on the 400 using the highest pipe through the bulkhead. Got away with no air locks on fire up.
wild rover said:
As you say it is worth checking the Radiator to make sure it isn't blocked and the fan kicks in early enough. Every faith in your efforts see you at the BBWF.
Fans are coming on round about 90 deg but for some reason it only overheats when moving it seems to be ok on idle but there again haven't let it run that long when stood. Bbwf is looking a long way off at the mo.Dix
Dix i really feel for you mate..I just wish i knew more and lived closer..If there is one thing i have learnt it is that diagnosing these things is not easy but worth it..I very nearly splashed out on a head gasket and skim that would of been a waste of time and money..I was lucky to have chimpafrolic phoning me and putting it through its paces..Cant your mechanic friend help again even if its diagnosis?..
Did you check the water pump..Does it have a good flow..Can you see the oil leak?..Is it seeping from the rocker covers?..From the sump?..What is your oil level cold?..Is the oil filter tight?.I assume that oil pressure lights only come on when oil is low?...Are your fans staying on because if they go off then it shouldnt be overheating and if water is purging then there is an air lock..It might be worth draining out the coolant and refilling slowly but just under what you need by about a quater in the header tank..put your heater fan on and on the hot position..Leave the filler cap off..Start the car and let it warm to normal operating temperature..Top up..slowly..when the fan comes on replace the pressure cap,check your heater for hot air and check for leaks under the car..Leave it for 10mins and then turn it off to see if any water purges out..When it has cooled down check the water level and top up if needed..I did read that some coolants are no good for older engines as coolants have different amounts of conditioners and temperature capabilities..Have you used the recommended coolant?..My knowledge is limited but i hope this helps..Can anyone else help the man out on the diagnosis side..Maybe a phone call or if you are local pop round..Ive got everything crossed for you mate in hope that its something simple..Ziga
Did you check the water pump..Does it have a good flow..Can you see the oil leak?..Is it seeping from the rocker covers?..From the sump?..What is your oil level cold?..Is the oil filter tight?.I assume that oil pressure lights only come on when oil is low?...Are your fans staying on because if they go off then it shouldnt be overheating and if water is purging then there is an air lock..It might be worth draining out the coolant and refilling slowly but just under what you need by about a quater in the header tank..put your heater fan on and on the hot position..Leave the filler cap off..Start the car and let it warm to normal operating temperature..Top up..slowly..when the fan comes on replace the pressure cap,check your heater for hot air and check for leaks under the car..Leave it for 10mins and then turn it off to see if any water purges out..When it has cooled down check the water level and top up if needed..I did read that some coolants are no good for older engines as coolants have different amounts of conditioners and temperature capabilities..Have you used the recommended coolant?..My knowledge is limited but i hope this helps..Can anyone else help the man out on the diagnosis side..Maybe a phone call or if you are local pop round..Ive got everything crossed for you mate in hope that its something simple..Ziga
Gunna try a few things tonight but firstly I'm gunna run it without the thermostat as everything is pointing towards that being the fault as all this started happening a short while after I fitted a ne one if its not that then the water pump the the radiator is blocked and so on and so on sigh. I'm sure we will get to the bottom of it I just hope I haven't blown the head gasket by tipping up the system with coolant while the engine was still mad hot, and I hope pushing all that water didn't do it any damage.
dix
whimper whimper whimper sniff sniff
dix
whimper whimper whimper sniff sniff
dixiebabes said:
Gunna try a few things tonight but firstly I'm gunna run it without the thermostat as everything is pointing towards that being the fault as all this started happening a short while after I fitted a ne one if its not that then the water pump the the radiator is blocked and so on and so on sigh. I'm sure we will get to the bottom of it I just hope I haven't blown the head gasket by tipping up the system with coolant while the engine was still mad hot, and I hope pushing all that water didn't do it any damage.
dix
whimper whimper whimper sniff sniff
Like everyone else has been saying it's almost certainly just an air lock mate.dix
whimper whimper whimper sniff sniff
As pwd95 says, getting the front end as high as you can when bleeding the system will certainly help a great deal.
Removing the thermostat will not.
Much better to replace the thermostat than simply removing it, what a lot of people don't know is a thermostat actually helps the flow by creating a venturi effect.
As the water passes through an open thermostat it is being forced through a smaller orifice, this has the effect of accelerating the water flow in the system just after the thermostat, this accelerative effect also helps to draw the water through just before the thermostat.
Your cooling system is specifically designed with this in mind, remove the thermostat at your peril, you can create hot spots just where you don't want them.
Your TVR is a bit like me after a few beers, let it have a good burp & fart and it will be fine
Surely checking the top and bottom hoses will confirm that the thermostat is opening..Although im not too sure on the RV8 but it is on the V6..I think there is some sound advice there dix..Dave saved me a fortune through helping me over the phone on a diagnosis point..Dont worry dave your beer is being kept warm..I mean cold along with all the others..Gulp..I think we need a BBWF rescue post..In fact..im gonna start one...Ziga
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