Tasmin electrics

[cello297]

Hi all,

After nearly two years of renovation the Tasmin is nearing the point that we are looking to fire her up for the first time. The only remaining hurdle now is the electrics. Can anyone please help identify where the following leads are meant to connect? The car is a 1981 V6 Tasmin series 1 convertible.

These three connectors come from the loom near the ECU, but I can't find anything for them to connect to:


This seems to sit somewhere near the ignition coil, but isn't one of the coil leads:


These are roughly next to the fuse panel:


Also, a couple of things are confusing me at the moment. There doesn't appear to be any connection from the electronics in the engine bay to the cockpit of the car - any thoughts how the two are connected, where the cables run, what the loom looks like? Also the wiring for the fuel pump seems to have gone missing - is this a separate loom, and again where does it run? We dismantled all of this so long ago that neither of us can remember what was where, where it went or what it looked like in the first place!

Many thanks for any help you can give.

- Ruari

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Mate..Im jusy checking some pics that i have..I think the red plug is the same as the one in my pic..



The middle pic looks like the fitting that i have that goes to the temperature sender on the housing at the front top of engine where the top rad hose goes next to the thermotime switch..(Brown plug)..

These look like either the ones that go onto the rad? or the interior lights under the glove box..




Hope it helps..Unfortunately i cant find anymore of my electrics but if you still need them tomorrow i will take some close ups and where they go...Cheers..Ziga

Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 18th August 20:53

[Wedg1e]

cello297 said:

Hi all,


This seems to sit somewhere near the ignition coil, but isn't one of the coil leads:

It probably does go to the coil (negative terminal); it'll be the rev counter pickup wire.

[Wedg1e]

cello297 said:

Hi all,

These three connectors come from the loom near the ECU, but I can't find anything for them to connect to:


- Ruari

Do any of them go to the airflow meter? There was a kill switch in some versions of the V6 that actuates the fuel pump.

The three near the fusebox possible do go to fuses; they look like the sort of connectors I recall my Tasmin having, connected to the fuses. Some of the fuses had double tags on them.

I think the instrument panel wiring disappears into the wing and re-emerges near the headlamp pod.

[MJG280]

As it's an 81 the fuses will be on the wing on the driver's side. The photo shows my exFHC wiring and you can see 4 similar connectors

The safety switch in the metering head on mine was green and plugged into the main body on the wing side.

[cello297]

Brilliant, MJG280! Here we have one that looks just like ours.

Things have moved on a bit: we have a working fuel pump. We have electrics - such a good spark that there was a major backfire once in the day of trying to get the engine running. We have serious fuel pressure to the fuel distributor. We have only a seep of fuel - or so it seems - at the injectors. Can anyone tell us why?

This may be replicated by my son, Ruari, in which case you are best to reply to him, as he tends to understand what is going on. However, we both want another good reliable Tasmin back on the road, if only to prove it really isn't true!

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Mate..I once had a serious backfire which blew the sensor plate cover off..That was when i was trying to get the right firing order..As for the seeping injectors..Are all the hoses in the right place on the metering head?..Flow and return?..Also if the metering head has sat around for a while it can gum up or the plate that separates the top from the bottom which is really thin metal..And i mean really thin can actually rust and rot away leaving you with no fuel pressure and the fuel gets returned to the tank..Could the injectors be blocked?..Ziga

[ruarirhodes]

It's all good, we've got the engine running! Located all but one wire now - the difficulty was in part that the engine's been replaced at some point with one from a later year, along with the engine wiring loom. Therefore we've got the "interesting" old all black wiring for the majority of the loom, and then proper coloured wiring for the engine. To add to that, the connectors had just been bodged together - couple of square pegs in round holes, doesn't make it easy to identify things.

Anyway, the engine's running now - combination of having the ignition timing 180 degrees out and the air flow sensor plate sticking didn't help. Timing easy enough to sort out, the air flow plate less so. I've cleaned the gunk out, now it's fine if it's kept moving but the moment you shut the engine off for five minutes the plate wedges itself firmly back into its hole, you have to give it a nudge every time you want to fire it up. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help!

[taz turbo]

ruarirhodes said:

air flow sensor plate sticking didn't help. Timing easy enough to sort out, the air flow plate less so. I've cleaned the gunk out, now it's fine if it's kept moving but the moment you shut the engine off for five minutes the plate wedges itself firmly back into its hole, you have to give it a nudge every time you want to fire it up. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help!

The air sensor plate is secured onto its operating arm with an M6 hex head screw, have you checked the air sensor plate/bore for damaged (burrs or debris binding on the plate) and also for the plate being central in its bore, if its not central its either the pivot that's died/dying, or if the pivot bearings are good you need to loosen the M6 screw and set the plate central with feeler gauges, then re-tighten the screw.

It could be that its not the air sensor plate sticking but the piston sticking in the metering head, if this is the case issue (confirm by feeler gauge around the air sensor plate that it's NOT touching its bore), then remove the three screw holding the metering unit to the air sensor assy. and remove the piston, fine metal polish the piston to remove tarnish (a Bosch recommendation) and reassemble.

I would advise using a new O ring between the metering head and air sensor assy. I once didn't and had terrible running problems that to this day cant explain why, as even with a leak here all air entering the engine still passes the air sensor plate so is still metered.

On another of your questions, re. wiring from engine to cabin, the engine bay wiring runs forward to the nose area then into the cabin routed between the outer and inner wing.

Chris.