Discussion
I have had my wedge for years and always thought the brakes were s***e have replaced front discs overhauled calipers replaced flexi pipes servo and not much better but i have just replaced rear discs and overhauled the calipers and cant beleive how much better the brakes are. just shows that they werent that bad a design but need to be in tip top nik to be any good.
Hi Mate..I know what you mean as regards to s
t brakes..Ive forgotten some of the techniques as regards to older systems for braking suddenly,(Manual ABS)..I had ABS..Anti-skid..Anti-squeal braking system on my toyota camry that i had and what a system that was..I did read somewhere as regards to brakes that sometimes a lot of it depends on the condition of the master cylinder..Sometimes upgrading or refurbing that can give overall better performance although i dont know how true it to be but it did make sense..Cheers..Ziga
t brakes..Ive forgotten some of the techniques as regards to older systems for braking suddenly,(Manual ABS)..I had ABS..Anti-skid..Anti-squeal braking system on my toyota camry that i had and what a system that was..I did read somewhere as regards to brakes that sometimes a lot of it depends on the condition of the master cylinder..Sometimes upgrading or refurbing that can give overall better performance although i dont know how true it to be but it did make sense..Cheers..Ziga
I've just overhauled my entire system - the only thing not touched was the servo and I could have got a new MC but chose an upgrade to my old unit instead. I've got re-bleed the system once the new MC goes on at the weekend - which should transform th old into the new. The only thing is the handbrake which has always been iffy to say the least...
Standard set up on mine and have found them surprisingly good on the track days...right up until the rears over heat 
OK you have to stand on them a bit harder than a modern set up but still well up to the job.
Will be putting some pipes to direct some cool air on to the rears before the next track day, also considering this vented rear set up:-
http://www.derek-watson.co.uk/brakes.htm
OK you have to stand on them a bit harder than a modern set up but still well up to the job.Will be putting some pipes to direct some cool air on to the rears before the next track day, also considering this vented rear set up:-
http://www.derek-watson.co.uk/brakes.htm
I looked at that set up when my brakes needed attention, the advice given by others was was that the racers use ducting to force air onto the rear brakes and vented calipers are too wide to fit between the chassis rails.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
400SE Dave said:
Standard set up on mine and have found them surprisingly good on the track days...right up until the rears over heat OK you have to stand on them a bit harder than a modern set up but still well up to the job.
Will be putting some pipes to direct some cool air on to the rears before the next track day, also considering this vented rear set up:-
http://www.derek-watson.co.uk/brakes.htm
Or you could save over £160 and get them from BG developments! They're brilliant. They made my mounting bracket for the Cerb calipers i've got on the front.. OK you have to stand on them a bit harder than a modern set up but still well up to the job.Will be putting some pipes to direct some cool air on to the rears before the next track day, also considering this vented rear set up:-
http://www.derek-watson.co.uk/brakes.htm
I've got a set on order. By my calculations, a small 6mm deep 'ding' in the chassis tube should clear the nearside caliper ;o)
pjtvr390se said:
I looked at that set up when my brakes needed attention, the advice given by others was was that the racers use ducting to force air onto the rear brakes
That's all I have and it made a huge difference to the braking and preventing the rears overheating. The handbrakes ones still cook on track but the mains are absolutely fine. No need for anything too flash.
cirks said:
That's all I have and it made a huge difference to the braking and preventing the rears overheating. The handbrakes ones still cook on track but the mains are absolutely fine. No need for anything too flash.
You don't need anything other than the standard Jag brakes on the back of a Taz, but, as cirks says, they will benefit from cooling ducts. I use Mintex 1155 pads on the back of mine and have the brake bias valve set to 70%. No problem.The fronts are a different matter though. I have 300mm x 28mm vented discs with 4 pot WMS (Willwood copies) calipers using Mintex F4R pads. They are epic and slow me down from 130mph in a blink of an eye.
Mine has 2 of these fitted, one under each seat. (obviously underneath the car too) About 8"x4" with 2 1/2" flexi ducting going back to either disc. I suppose cutting an old 5 lt oil bottle in half and ducting from the screw neck would almost do the same
On the racers I have seem the ducting coming from the rear windows and down to the discs, not a good plan on a soft top though.
Note to self----I really must get them seat mount bolts cut down
On the racers I have seem the ducting coming from the rear windows and down to the discs, not a good plan on a soft top though.
Note to self----I really must get them seat mount bolts cut down
barrington said:
they look great have you got any details for the flexi brake pipes as i need to get hold of some
You can s/s hoses made to measure with the correct fittings from Speedflow (they don't charge by the way) or you can make them yourself albeit with a health warning as once cut the s/s braiding easily pierces the skin!! Best get them made up.barrington said:
they look great have you got any details for the flexi brake pipes as i need to get hold of some
Hi Dave, They were 'standard' Cerbera brake lines i bought as a kit on-line from one of the myriad flea-bay sellers. Cerbs use the standard british imperial threads, on the solid lines. just make sure you specify the banjo bolt connection for the caliper end.I didn't use the rear lines...must sell them !
This colour is 'Denim Blue'
Regards
Andy
NTEL said:
You don't need anything other than the standard Jag brakes on the back of a Taz, but, as cirks says, they will benefit from cooling ducts. I use Mintex 1155 pads on the back of mine and have the brake bias valve set to 70%. No problem.
The fronts are a different matter though. I have 300mm x 28mm vented discs with 4 pot WMS (Willwood copies) calipers using Mintex F4R pads. They are epic and slow me down from 130mph in a blink of an eye.
Hiya, Out of interest, where do you duct the air to on the rear discs? i have mine directly onto the side of the disc behind the caliper?.The fronts are a different matter though. I have 300mm x 28mm vented discs with 4 pot WMS (Willwood copies) calipers using Mintex F4R pads. They are epic and slow me down from 130mph in a blink of an eye.
Cheers
Andy
TOPTON said:
Mine has 2 of these fitted, one under each seat. (obviously underneath the car too) About 8"x4" with 2 1/2" flexi ducting going back to either disc. I suppose cutting an old 5 lt oil bottle in half and ducting from the screw neck would almost do the same
On the racers I have seem the ducting coming from the rear windows and down to the discs, not a good plan on a soft top though.
Note to self----I really must get them seat mount bolts cut down
Hi Tony, yes i fitted these too. I got mine from Tower View racing (Nowhere near 'the tower')On the racers I have seem the ducting coming from the rear windows and down to the discs, not a good plan on a soft top though.
Note to self----I really must get them seat mount bolts cut down
Apparently the origins of this collector are some part of the intake ducting on a TVR S, so i was told.
Regards
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