Bleedin' Clutch

[adam quantrill]

Well the gearchange got a bit rough on the way back from work and there was obviously some air in there from when it ran low on fluid the other day.

I suppose with the hot weather and extra heat the air expands and made its way up the pipe giving a useless cushion instead of hydraulic force.

So with the help of a small boy pressing the pedal (thanks Harry!) i got it bled, but I was thinking: is it normal to have the bleed nipple at the bottom? I reckon it would be better with the pipe at the bottom and the nipple at the top to allow more air out. I assume the threads are the same...

Anyhow it seems much better now with TiTT coming up and all those gearchanges fingers crossed!!!

[The Hatter]

Sounds like your slave is upside down... for want of a better expression.

The bolt pattern is symmetric isn't it?

[TOPTON]

When I renewed my clutch last year I found that it was the same as yours, nipple at the bottom. I can't remember whether I just put it the slave other way up or put the pipe on the other hole. Either way it wasn't a problem. Did you find why it was losing fluid and letting air in???

[TOPTON]

When I renewed my clutch last year I found that it was the same as yours, nipple at the bottom. I can't remember whether I just put it the slave other way up or put the pipe on the other hole. Either way it wasn't a problem. Did you find why it was losing fluid and letting air in???

[adam quantrill]

It lost fluid somewhere, didn't find out where until it was too late. I probably hadn't checked it for a year as I had to use the chain wrench on the top to open it, so it's probably just usual leakage.

[Wedg1e]

ISTR my nipple is/was on the bottom too, probably for ease of access - you can just about reach it with a spanner under the side of the car.
It is of course silly to have it that way round; with a bit of thought you could run another length of copper line back up to a fitting in the engine bay and put the bleed nipple somewhere REALLY accessible

[adam quantrill]

Yes ideally into the cockpit so you could bleed it single-handed ;^)

I think there is something funny going on with mine - it seemed much better last night after bleeding, the pedal was firmer, and was fine this morning, then a few miles into the drive it started playing up again.

I had a quick look at the pipe and it doesn't seem to be touching the exhaust so it's a bit of a mystery at the moment. When it plays up there's a fair amoint of clutch judder too. The bite point seems to vary randomly. Sometimes it will change easily, other times it needs a spell in neutral.

[wild rover]

Have you checked around the carpet to see if it is dry,

[brhmtvrs]

I noticed the bleed valve was on the bottom on mine also. I just swapped the line and the bleed valve.
To bleed by yourself, open the bleed valve and push the piston back into the cylinder and close the valve. Pump the pedal and repeat.

Bill

[Campbell]

Sounds like you may have a problem with the slave or the master letting in a little air.
Dead easy to check the slave, it it were me i would take it off and check the seals.
I would also have the blead nipple to the top as air rises and you will never get it all out when bleading.

[adam quantrill]

Well the strange thing is that it has all sorted itself out on its own - even the juddering has largely disappeared. All a few hours after I ordered a new master and slave off flea. But for 25 quid total, they can sit on the shelf as long as I don't have to touch it again ;^) what a bargain.

[350zwelgje]

Seals? Even without loosing fluid, it seems from the random operation that they are on their way out. Would expect air to act like getting worse and worse and never better (except perhaps with a pumping action). Replaced the seals on mine and still fine years later, all SD1 stuff by the way, but it seems many do not have a SD1 master.

Rob

[adam quantrill]

Possibly seals but with the new fluid in there maybe they have swelled up again and plugged the gaps.