How do i line up the ruddy handbrake caliper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Discussion
Ok i have slackened off the handbrake cable, undone the bolts holding the caliper together and replaced the handbrake pads.
But i am struggling to line up and thread in the bolt that draws the two parts of the caliper together so that the pads are close to the disc before i can then tighten the cable.
Any tips?
Jimbo
But i am struggling to line up and thread in the bolt that draws the two parts of the caliper together so that the pads are close to the disc before i can then tighten the cable.
Any tips?
Jimbo
I had this happen on one of mine.
If you wind the adjuster bolt out too far it comes out of the part in the caliper that it screws into, which then moves so the bolt doesn't screw in.
I took the handbrake part of the caliper back off and used a long thin screwdriver to realign the part in the caliper that the bolt screws into.
Hard to explain, hope that made some sense!
If you wind the adjuster bolt out too far it comes out of the part in the caliper that it screws into, which then moves so the bolt doesn't screw in.
I took the handbrake part of the caliper back off and used a long thin screwdriver to realign the part in the caliper that the bolt screws into.
Hard to explain, hope that made some sense!
Yes i had to remove the bolt so i could take of the outside half of the caliper as the bolt holding the pad in wasn't undoing due to the fact that the pad material had come off the backing plate htus leading to the pad retaining bolt spinning round.
I have an idea for tomorrow so i will let you know how i get on.
Jimbo
I have an idea for tomorrow so i will let you know how i get on.
Jimbo
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p11.ht...
The 11th and 15th pictures as you scroll down show the long screw; it passes through a bronze square shaft and into the toothed cylindrical bit. This bit stays in place (normally) because it has a spring clip to keep it aligned but if you knock it as you reinsert the screw it can go a bit skew-whiff.
Worst case scenario, you whip out the small split pin, push the pin out, remove securing countersunk screw (if it'll come out) and remove the outer tin cover to gain access.
The 11th and 15th pictures as you scroll down show the long screw; it passes through a bronze square shaft and into the toothed cylindrical bit. This bit stays in place (normally) because it has a spring clip to keep it aligned but if you knock it as you reinsert the screw it can go a bit skew-whiff.
Worst case scenario, you whip out the small split pin, push the pin out, remove securing countersunk screw (if it'll come out) and remove the outer tin cover to gain access.
Well i managed to get back out there this evening and i nailed the barsteward!
I removed the locating bolt for the outer part of the caliper then inserted the adjusting bolt and wiggled it around as i tightened it. Managed to get it to bite whilst moving the inner part of the caliper around with my other hand. Once threaded in a tad i then rotated the outer part of the caliper until it lined up then inserted its locating bolt. Tightened everything up, re-adjusted the cable on the passenger side.....................happy days.
Although i think i haven't bent the locking tabs back into position now i come to think of it.............tomorrow whilst i refit the shock and new spring.
Jimbo
I removed the locating bolt for the outer part of the caliper then inserted the adjusting bolt and wiggled it around as i tightened it. Managed to get it to bite whilst moving the inner part of the caliper around with my other hand. Once threaded in a tad i then rotated the outer part of the caliper until it lined up then inserted its locating bolt. Tightened everything up, re-adjusted the cable on the passenger side.....................happy days.
Although i think i haven't bent the locking tabs back into position now i come to think of it.............tomorrow whilst i refit the shock and new spring.
Jimbo
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



