Instrument bulbs/LEDs
Discussion
I might have tracked down a source of LEDs in BA7 bases (the ones with the elongated "pip" on the side). These are used in much instrument illumination of the period (of our cars).
As you will know, LEDs use less current and have tens of thousands of hours rated life. They also come in different colours (no more "green condoms"!), so you can have whatever coloured instrument illumination you like (within reason).
I'm expecting to receive a bulb to test within a couple of days. I have no idea as to price as yet, but it will be a little more than the corresponding filament bulb. If anyone is interested, the price might fall for a reasonably sized order (no idea what that would be though). Please post here if you are interested.
Streaky
As you will know, LEDs use less current and have tens of thousands of hours rated life. They also come in different colours (no more "green condoms"!), so you can have whatever coloured instrument illumination you like (within reason).
I'm expecting to receive a bulb to test within a couple of days. I have no idea as to price as yet, but it will be a little more than the corresponding filament bulb. If anyone is interested, the price might fall for a reasonably sized order (no idea what that would be though). Please post here if you are interested.
Streaky
mikeb said:Worth trying the "special" bulbs that have sideways pointing LEDs (6) in addition to the forward pointing ones (18). However, they seems only to come in white, red and amber (assuming a standard 15mm base). Most LEDs for cars are based around the ... wait for it ... WEDGE bases (I'll get my coat!).
Another thing that I was going to try is to replace the crap bulb inside the fibre optic housing that illuminates the switches with an array of super bright green or white 12 v LED's, which should theow out much more light than the crap bulb does at present.
Just a thought .
Mike B
I can try my contact to see whether he could source (or make up). Of course, it would not be too difficult to make one up yourself with a suitable base and (say) 3, 5 or 10mm LEDs (red; blue; white; amber; yellow; green; pink; UV; red/blue; red/orange; green/orange (polarity swap); red/blue/green cyclic; rainbow cyclic; red/blue/green flashing), a suitable resistor and some potting compound (epoxy will do). With 10,000mcd (for 10mm LEDs), the output should be sufficient. Just add LEDs to multiply the candela (= luminous intensity).
Streaky
Well if memory serves the lamp for the fibre optics is housed in a sort of quite large diameter tube which the lamp assembly screws in one end and the fibres come out of the other then go to the switches.
you could cut a piece of plastic and drill the holes for the LEDs and then glue the assembly in place, should run cooler and brighter than the lamp.
You know, I might have a go at that on the weekend. I feel and article coming on!.
MikeB
you could cut a piece of plastic and drill the holes for the LEDs and then glue the assembly in place, should run cooler and brighter than the lamp.
You know, I might have a go at that on the weekend. I feel and article coming on!.
MikeB
Ha! That's the point, you probably do have illumination but it's crap...
If you remove the centre pod housing and locate the switch gear panel (behind the vaneer panel) you will find they have little clear plastic surrounds attached to them.
Running from the plastic surrounds are little black cables, these cables are fibre optic cables which lead back to a cylindrical housing stuffed at the back of the pod housing.
This LUCAS(?) 'light housing' has a little dim bulb inside that is supposed to give out light which travels down the fibreoptic cables to illuminate the clear plastic switch surrounds. But as the bulb system is rubbish you end up with a pathetic light and hardly any illumination.
I am talking about changing the lamp for an array of super bright green LED's (so the colour matches the dials). This should give out much more light and run cooler which avoids cars going up in smoke!.
Are you with me??.
MikeB
If you remove the centre pod housing and locate the switch gear panel (behind the vaneer panel) you will find they have little clear plastic surrounds attached to them.
Running from the plastic surrounds are little black cables, these cables are fibre optic cables which lead back to a cylindrical housing stuffed at the back of the pod housing.
This LUCAS(?) 'light housing' has a little dim bulb inside that is supposed to give out light which travels down the fibreoptic cables to illuminate the clear plastic switch surrounds. But as the bulb system is rubbish you end up with a pathetic light and hardly any illumination.
I am talking about changing the lamp for an array of super bright green LED's (so the colour matches the dials). This should give out much more light and run cooler which avoids cars going up in smoke!.
Are you with me??.
MikeB
I went down this route a few months ago.
I was looking at making a loom and fitting it to the switches, but couldnt get led's the same size as the ends of teh fibre optics.
Plus the LED's that I tried in the llamp box thing werent bright enough to power all the fibres .. so I gave up.
If Streaky can sort some thing out, im very interested.
I was looking at making a loom and fitting it to the switches, but couldnt get led's the same size as the ends of teh fibre optics.
Plus the LED's that I tried in the llamp box thing werent bright enough to power all the fibres .. so I gave up.
If Streaky can sort some thing out, im very interested.
Yeah, but I have seen a circular array of LED's from Maplins or someplace containing about 12 high brightness LEDs that's gotta be better then the single crappy lamp. I was not gonna touch the fibre optic cables at all I was gonna keep them attached to the lamp housing thingy.
I was thinking of keeping the lamp housing as is minus the lamp and just stuffing the led array in the other end and glueing it in place.
Alternatively you could of course just clear silicone a single green LED to each switch clear plastic lllumination bezel and wire them all back to the original 12V supply for the fibre optic lamp either via a resister or get the 12V LEDS to start with.
Mike
I was thinking of keeping the lamp housing as is minus the lamp and just stuffing the led array in the other end and glueing it in place.
Alternatively you could of course just clear silicone a single green LED to each switch clear plastic lllumination bezel and wire them all back to the original 12V supply for the fibre optic lamp either via a resister or get the 12V LEDS to start with.
Mike
I tried the LEd route with silicone, and also very small fillament lamps, but this was unsufessful.
Maplis do sell LED arrays, but in order for the light to be useful a lot of LED's would be needed.
I was thinking of making a LEd cluster and mounting it in a resin block to attach to the lamp housing
Maplis do sell LED arrays, but in order for the light to be useful a lot of LED's would be needed.
I was thinking of making a LEd cluster and mounting it in a resin block to attach to the lamp housing
mikeb said:
Ha! That's the point, you probably do have illumination but it's crap...
If you remove the centre pod housing and locate the switch gear panel (behind the vaneer panel) you will find they have little clear plastic surrounds attached to them.
Running from the plastic surrounds are little black cables, these cables are fibre optic cables which lead back to a cylindrical housing stuffed at the back of the pod housing.
This LUCAS(?) 'light housing' has a little dim bulb inside that is supposed to give out light which travels down the fibreoptic cables to illuminate the clear plastic switch surrounds. But as the bulb system is rubbish you end up with a pathetic light and hardly any illumination.
I am talking about changing the lamp for an array of super bright green LED's (so the colour matches the dials). This should give out much more light and run cooler which avoids cars going up in smoke!.
Are you with me??.
MikeB
Hmmm. Interesting. I must look a little closer. Thanks for the information.
That would work just as well if not better as you could probaly mold the resin to fit a bit better into the light housing.
The number of LED's dosen't bother me as they are cheap enough and I am gonna try and stuff in as many as possible.
I reckon that it would work 10 times better than the original jobbie. LED's are quite bright.
We must get together and give it a go!
Mike B
The number of LED's dosen't bother me as they are cheap enough and I am gonna try and stuff in as many as possible.
I reckon that it would work 10 times better than the original jobbie. LED's are quite bright.
We must get together and give it a go!
Mike B
24 LEDs of 16,000mcd each gives 384,000mcd. Whatever this is in real terms, it's enough for a side/brake light. That would make your switches stand out at night.
As soon as I've disposed of #1 (and only) daughter, I'll start experimenting.
5mm LED prices for >=10,000mcd o/p) are:
Blue - £1.00; Green 88p; RED 53p; White £1.94p. Resistor 25p. Bulb base (say) £1.50.
Guessing at six LEDs, that makes the component price around £7.75 for blue, and ... (you work it out). Not cheap, but hopefully a major improvement and it eliminates a heat source.
Streaky
>> Edited by streaky on Thursday 24th June 06:48
As soon as I've disposed of #1 (and only) daughter, I'll start experimenting.
5mm LED prices for >=10,000mcd o/p) are:
Blue - £1.00; Green 88p; RED 53p; White £1.94p. Resistor 25p. Bulb base (say) £1.50.
Guessing at six LEDs, that makes the component price around £7.75 for blue, and ... (you work it out). Not cheap, but hopefully a major improvement and it eliminates a heat source.
Streaky
>> Edited by streaky on Thursday 24th June 06:48
no need to use a resistor. with any number of LED's in parralel, this should give you adequate resistance.
Streaky, we myst get together and discuss this propper (pint or something). We may find a few areas that our idea's are overlapping....
Im up for having a shot at this ...
edited cos its late and my typing has gone to pot !
>> Edited by jvaughan on Thursday 24th June 00:23
Streaky, we myst get together and discuss this propper (pint or something). We may find a few areas that our idea's are overlapping....
Im up for having a shot at this ...
edited cos its late and my typing has gone to pot !
>> Edited by jvaughan on Thursday 24th June 00:23
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