Clutch problem

[The Hatter]

Sods law strikes... Loads of work to do on the SEAC and the 350i let me down today and had to come home on the back of an AA truck.

The clutch pedal felt odd for a couple of strokes and then stuck at the top (yes, top!) of it's travel. I've got a horrible feeling it's engine out time, unless anyone can think of a good reason the hydraulics could cause this...?

[Wedg1e]

Clutch actuating lever come off its ball and got wedged?
Can't see it being the rod between pedal and master cylinder as IIRC it has a flared end that's held captive but may be worth a look...

[350zwelgje]

Had clutch lever problems as well. It is possible to have a peek inside if you take the dustcover off at the bottom of the bellhousing. When I had a look, the pivot had pierced through the lever...
Was able to replace it by making an access hole at the bottom of the bellhousing. Fiddly, but can be done with a lot of patience.
When replacing the clutch a couple of months ago, I used a pivot that has no recess at the top for grease or something as this eats into the lever. And strengthened the lever by welding a small plate over the position for the pivot and strips of metal to the sides. Just to avoid it happening again


Rob

[adam quantrill]

Sounds like the master cylinder or the pushrod, to me. Unlikely to be the slave or actual clutch.

[350zwelgje]

Agree that the hydraulics of the clutch are the first to look at/overhaul (simple thing first). As for me the clutch wasn't slipping at all, overhauled the operating system and thinking it would solve the problem. But the clutch still didn't work (pedal just moved to halfway and didn't disengage the clutch) and only then discovered the lever problem.

Rob

[The Hatter]

I checked the hydraulics today and they're OK (cracked the bleed screw to check the master and then removed the slave) so it's got to be the release arm, diaphragm spring or release bearing. Now I'm in a quandry; should I lay up the 350i for a while and get on with the SEAC or pull the engine out of the 350i and put the SEAC on hold???

I have a list of jobs on the 350i that would be worth doing with the engine out so it wouldn't be a simple clutch change (it needs a new cam and there's stripped threads on the front cover...) so it will take a while.

Humpf.

[wooly350i]

Cut the access hole in the bottom of the 350 bellhousing using a hole cutter,I used an 83mm cutter,at least then you can make an informed decision on if the fix is straight forward or more involved,we used the hole to re-locate the arm onto the release baring,twas fiddly but do-able.

[The Hatter]

I've decided to fix the 350 and slow down on the SEAC otherwise the 350 will never get done... but I am hoping to do a 'simple' clutch change and not get hung up on the other jobs that need doing.

Anoyone know if the exhaust manifolds have to come off before pulling the engine or can the whole lot come out in one go?

[GV]

You can get away with removing the o/s manifold - plus I found it easier shoving the engine crane under the o/s front wheel (Removed) if your engine crane is short on length. A load leveller makes life easier too...

[barrington]

when i have removed 350 engines i take off both manifolds plus the front bumper and tape up the nose as a lot of the engine hoists dont have a long reach and a couple of extra inchs help

[hallsie]

Dave,
the saying ive heard bandered around is 'a couple of INCHES' usually helps!!


How about the AP clutch in the classifieds for the last 9 hours Martin?

Stu

[barrington]

you now it

[The Hatter]

I got the engine out today, after several false starts. I needed to remove the bumper and spoiler which meant removing the light pods; that was a bit of a faff. I wanted to remove the RH engine mount but the threads wouldn't crack off so I had to leave it on, it was a struggle manouvering the engine out with it on. I took the manifolds off in the end but the RH one wouldn't come out with the engine mount on... so it came out as I lifted the engine.



I found the problem, the release bearing was breaking up:



Also found an interesting bodge! One way to get around knackered gearshift remote bushes is to hammer in an exhaust rubber to cut down the movement...

Note the knackered gearbox mountings too, they're swelled up like barrels and very soft.



I also found another 'issue'. The big nut that holds the propshaft coupling flange to the gearbox output shaft was loose. It was leaking oil into the space between the propshaft and the flange so explains the oil leak I couldn't find, plus hopefully explains the grumbling gearbox bearings as I think there's taper roller bearings on this shaft that depend on the tightness of this nut to get the correct pre-load. Not sure about the last point but it will be very pleasing if the grumbly bearing noise goes away after this job!

Big thank you to Leigh for sorting me out with the crane! Thanks mate.

Edited by The Hatter on Saturday 17th December 17:24

[350zwelgje]

See if you can track down a metal clutch bearing sliding part and put a metal release bearing on it instead of the plastic job.
Mine had that metal version already, but discovered several 'lengths' of sliders exist (due to working on my rover sd1 with a knackered gearbox, having a spare box with all clutch parts....
Even have to space the slave cylinder on the wedge after replacing the clutch to have the release bearing not touching the fingers of the pressure plate....

Rob

[The Hatter]

I've got the car back together and running at last, it was more of a pain than I expected. I bought a load leveller to help get the engine back into the car, it was a real boon as you can put a trolley jack under the gearbox and then wind the load leveller to the front of it's travel - this has the effect of lengthening the crane reach and makes life much easier.