Headlights again!
Discussion
After nearly two years of proud ownership I thought I'd got away with having headlamp gremlins! But not to be, must be my turn.....
When the sidelights are switched on the pods raise, but when I go to the main headlamp position the pods go back down. Occasionally if I flick the switch the lamps come back up with the headlamp on main beam. Not tonight though. Had to come home 22 miles on sidelights following a numpty doing 40 in a 60 so I could see where I was going lol.
Any ideas anyone. Short, bad connection, both?!
When the sidelights are switched on the pods raise, but when I go to the main headlamp position the pods go back down. Occasionally if I flick the switch the lamps come back up with the headlamp on main beam. Not tonight though. Had to come home 22 miles on sidelights following a numpty doing 40 in a 60 so I could see where I was going lol.
Any ideas anyone. Short, bad connection, both?!
Hi Mate..It seems that theres another spate of headlight conundrums happening!!..I had something similar with the switch and had to replace it..But then the drivers side high beam stopped working but after wiggling the wires that go to it it came back on??..Could be a loose wire..And/or a faulty switch..Sounds like its working in reverse..I know that next year im going to have my wires from the switch to the pods replaced to avoid future dramas..Ziga
Edited by mrzigazaga on Tuesday 15th November 18:20
Hi, just joined...
I had a whole series of electrical issues when I first bought the wedge, dim headlights, pods going up and down after going over bumps etc....
I carefully checked the wiring and cleaned the connectors (sorry, but they are under the driver's side pod) and ESPECIALLY THE EARTH RETURNS, which most people forget. It's a fibreglass car after all, and so the earth return is very important. Discovered mine (a single M6 bolt by the fuse box and relays) was all corroded and some of the wires weren't bonded properly. Similarly some of the connectors were green with corrosion....
After remaking the earths, cleaning up, etc. I've not had a problem since (fingers crossed)
(280 series 1, grey chassis, all black wiring with rubber sleeve idents...YUK!!)
I had a whole series of electrical issues when I first bought the wedge, dim headlights, pods going up and down after going over bumps etc....
I carefully checked the wiring and cleaned the connectors (sorry, but they are under the driver's side pod) and ESPECIALLY THE EARTH RETURNS, which most people forget. It's a fibreglass car after all, and so the earth return is very important. Discovered mine (a single M6 bolt by the fuse box and relays) was all corroded and some of the wires weren't bonded properly. Similarly some of the connectors were green with corrosion....
After remaking the earths, cleaning up, etc. I've not had a problem since (fingers crossed)
(280 series 1, grey chassis, all black wiring with rubber sleeve idents...YUK!!)
Jack Valiant said:
Hi Mike
This is exactly the problem I have!! I am hoping it is the light switch but if not I think the next stop is the connectors at the lights and the copper strip switch in the motors - fingers crossed!
Chris
Hi Chris. Think I'll try the switch first as well. Do you know where to get them or what they're off. Thought I'd call TVR Car Parts. They are usually very helpful. Be good if it was as simple as a switch eh?This is exactly the problem I have!! I am hoping it is the light switch but if not I think the next stop is the connectors at the lights and the copper strip switch in the motors - fingers crossed!
Chris
Mike
RCK974X said:
Hi, just joined...
I had a whole series of electrical issues when I first bought the wedge, dim headlights, pods going up and down after going over bumps etc....
I carefully checked the wiring and cleaned the connectors (sorry, but they are under the driver's side pod) and ESPECIALLY THE EARTH RETURNS, which most people forget. It's a fibreglass car after all, and so the earth return is very important. Discovered mine (a single M6 bolt by the fuse box and relays) was all corroded and some of the wires weren't bonded properly. Similarly some of the connectors were green with corrosion....
After remaking the earths, cleaning up, etc. I've not had a problem since (fingers crossed)
(280 series 1, grey chassis, all black wiring with rubber sleeve idents...YUK!!)
Hi AndyI had a whole series of electrical issues when I first bought the wedge, dim headlights, pods going up and down after going over bumps etc....
I carefully checked the wiring and cleaned the connectors (sorry, but they are under the driver's side pod) and ESPECIALLY THE EARTH RETURNS, which most people forget. It's a fibreglass car after all, and so the earth return is very important. Discovered mine (a single M6 bolt by the fuse box and relays) was all corroded and some of the wires weren't bonded properly. Similarly some of the connectors were green with corrosion....
After remaking the earths, cleaning up, etc. I've not had a problem since (fingers crossed)
(280 series 1, grey chassis, all black wiring with rubber sleeve idents...YUK!!)
I'm hoping its something as simple as a switch. Otherwise I'll be cleaning terminals etc as well! At least I've got come sort of colour coding. How do you sort out all-black wiring!!!!!!!
Hi
I have had this problem on a couple of Wedges and it has always been the switch. They are off a TR7 and are very poor. They get hot in use and eventually the little spring loaded plastic 'nipples' that operate the switching start to melt. This causes exactly the symptoms you are having.
Good luck.
I have had this problem on a couple of Wedges and it has always been the switch. They are off a TR7 and are very poor. They get hot in use and eventually the little spring loaded plastic 'nipples' that operate the switching start to melt. This causes exactly the symptoms you are having.
Good luck.
Hormone said:
Hi
I have had this problem on a couple of Wedges and it has always been the switch. They are off a TR7 and are very poor. They get hot in use and eventually the little spring loaded plastic 'nipples' that operate the switching start to melt. This causes exactly the symptoms you are having.
Good luck.
Switch first it is then. Thanks everyoneI have had this problem on a couple of Wedges and it has always been the switch. They are off a TR7 and are very poor. They get hot in use and eventually the little spring loaded plastic 'nipples' that operate the switching start to melt. This causes exactly the symptoms you are having.
Good luck.
(Black Wiring....)
Yeah, good idea to check the switch as well - I hate them too, they're cr*p. Typical "Prince of Darkness" Lucas...... You can it least dismantle, clean and reassemble without special tools, so it's not all bad. As long as they aren't melted too badly...
Oddly enough, I haven't had a problem with the main light switch (but have with heater switch, which was melted, and window switches, which only work when there's an "M" in the day, that's what it feels like anyway.
Black Wiring - yeah, my understanding is quite a few of the early ones were all black. There are colured rubber idents on the ends, which drop off in the engine compartment when they age, and there's no guide that I've found. Faults require very careful checking with test meter....I intend to rewire it soon. I have a Cortina 4 loom, and a (UK) Granada loom for donors.
I actually changed a couple of the 'multiple bullet' type connectors and replaced with individual spade types quite a while ago, the originals were knackered beyond repair.
TIP. My dim headlights were VASTLY improved after sorting the main earth return, so may apply to other wedges too....
Yeah, good idea to check the switch as well - I hate them too, they're cr*p. Typical "Prince of Darkness" Lucas...... You can it least dismantle, clean and reassemble without special tools, so it's not all bad. As long as they aren't melted too badly...
Oddly enough, I haven't had a problem with the main light switch (but have with heater switch, which was melted, and window switches, which only work when there's an "M" in the day, that's what it feels like anyway.
Black Wiring - yeah, my understanding is quite a few of the early ones were all black. There are colured rubber idents on the ends, which drop off in the engine compartment when they age, and there's no guide that I've found. Faults require very careful checking with test meter....I intend to rewire it soon. I have a Cortina 4 loom, and a (UK) Granada loom for donors.
I actually changed a couple of the 'multiple bullet' type connectors and replaced with individual spade types quite a while ago, the originals were knackered beyond repair.
TIP. My dim headlights were VASTLY improved after sorting the main earth return, so may apply to other wedges too....
RCK974X said:
Black Wiring - yeah, my understanding is quite a few of the early ones were all black. There are colured rubber idents on the ends, which drop off in the engine compartment when they age, and there's no guide that I've found. Faults require very careful checking with test meter....I intend to rewire it soon.
The colour-code used was that standard on most British cars pre-'80 or so. Find an old Landrover diagram, that usually identifies them. Later cars use a Euro-standard colour scheme. Coloured (or numbered) tube markers on wiring are a standard used in most engineering wiring but to be fair most machines don't have the environment of a car's engine bay.Hormone said:
Hi
I have had this problem on a couple of Wedges and it has always been the switch. They are off a TR7 and are very poor. They get hot in use and eventually the little spring loaded plastic 'nipples' that operate the switching start to melt. This causes exactly the symptoms you are having.
Good luck.
Zig I can't believe you missed the opportunity - Oooh Matron - my nipples are all hot and I can't flash my headlamps...I have had this problem on a couple of Wedges and it has always been the switch. They are off a TR7 and are very poor. They get hot in use and eventually the little spring loaded plastic 'nipples' that operate the switching start to melt. This causes exactly the symptoms you are having.
Good luck.
mikesp said:
After nearly two years of proud ownership I thought I'd got away with having headlamp gremlins! But not to be, must be my turn.....
When the sidelights are switched on the pods raise, but when I go to the main headlamp position the pods go back down. Occasionally if I flick the switch the lamps come back up with the headlamp on main beam. Not tonight though. Had to come home 22 miles on sidelights following a numpty doing 40 in a 60 so I could see where I was going lol.
Any ideas anyone. Short, bad connection, both?!
Mike i had a very similar problem with the 450 earlier this year. It turned out to be the diode that is located in the fuse box. Costs pennies but a f@@@@r to figure out!When the sidelights are switched on the pods raise, but when I go to the main headlamp position the pods go back down. Occasionally if I flick the switch the lamps come back up with the headlamp on main beam. Not tonight though. Had to come home 22 miles on sidelights following a numpty doing 40 in a 60 so I could see where I was going lol.
Any ideas anyone. Short, bad connection, both?!
Jimbo
Edited by JMF894 on Friday 18th November 22:25
JMF894 said:
Mike i had a very similar problem with the 450 earlier this year. It turned out to be the diode that is located in the fuse box. Costs pennies but a f@@@@r to figure out!
Jimbo
Thanks Jimbo. If the switch idea doesn't work I'll check this as well. Its a good job other people can find these problems. I certainly wouldn't have known to look at the diode. I can deal with most mechanical things but electrics - no hope???!!! Jimbo
Edited by JMF894 on Friday 18th November 22:25
Just for extra info...
My wedge (1982) has ONE diode, which is only used for the main beam 'flash' function from indicator stalk. It has a separate wire linked to the main swith so that pods rise irrespective of whether main or dip is selected.
According to the wiring diagrams I've seen the later wedges have two (more ?) diodes, one main, one dip.
Wedg1e - thanks for that. I understand the early 'english' wiring codes fairly well, but the sleeves left are RUBBER and totally faded after 30 odd years. Trying to roll them inside out for the colour just causes them to fall to bits. If they had used plastic coloured or numbered ones (like what I used doing my apprenticeship many, many years ago) they might have survived better...
Still, it's all part of the fun of owning a classic......
My wedge (1982) has ONE diode, which is only used for the main beam 'flash' function from indicator stalk. It has a separate wire linked to the main swith so that pods rise irrespective of whether main or dip is selected.
According to the wiring diagrams I've seen the later wedges have two (more ?) diodes, one main, one dip.
Wedg1e - thanks for that. I understand the early 'english' wiring codes fairly well, but the sleeves left are RUBBER and totally faded after 30 odd years. Trying to roll them inside out for the colour just causes them to fall to bits. If they had used plastic coloured or numbered ones (like what I used doing my apprenticeship many, many years ago) they might have survived better...
Still, it's all part of the fun of owning a classic......
RCK974X said:
. I understand the early 'english' wiring codes fairly well, but the sleeves left are RUBBER and totally faded after 30 odd years. Trying to roll them inside out for the colour just causes them to fall to bits. If they had used plastic coloured or numbered ones (like what I used doing my apprenticeship many, many years ago) they might have survived better...
The sleeves on my '80 Tasmin were perished by the time I bought it in '95. I found I could get most of the colours if I gave them a quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol - they usually fell to bits afterwards but at least you could note down which wire was on which terminal! Oh, and don't try to read them under electric light, it makes things worse 
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