Now thinking about front brakes...........................

[JMF894]

I cannot afford a big brake upgrade but i was wondering if there was one thing i could do to improve the brakes on the 450 what would it be?

What experience do people have with braided hoses?

I have drilled discs on the back, standard vented on the front with the 4 pot AP calipers.

I was thinking grooved discs and uprated pads for the front?

Any advice most appreciated chaps.

Jimbo

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Mate..I did read somewhere that an alternative to splashing out on a completely new brake set up is replacing the master cylinder with one that is slightly larger,Bigger drilled..vented discs and bigger pads help..Clean brake fluid can also make a big difference..Ill see if i can find it again..Cheers..Ziga

Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 8th December 12:07

[400SE Dave]

Have braided hoses on mine and also went for DOT 5.1 brake fluid. However as I bought the TVR to go on track days I did these as soon as I bought it so I have no idea if it really improved anything.

For me the front brakes are not the weak link, I have no real issues on the track, none at all on the road. Due to the overheating problems of the rears they tend to 'give up' first!! Over winter I will be putting some basic pipework (read flexible hoses !!) to direct more air to the rear discs and probably upgrading the pads.

[cirks]

Ducting to rears, braided hoses and decent pads will all help massively. When you can afford it, go for bigger front disks - the standard calipers on bigger disks (grooved not drilled) with good pads worked brilliantly even on track for a number of years before I upgraded further. Depends where you're going to drive (track v road) and how hard. Most of the set up is pretty good anyway.

[chapperssx]

Hi Jimbo what about these http://www.hispecbrake.co.uk/Wedge%20295mm%20Bille...

[cirks]

Pretty much what's on mine other than my calipers are Monster 4s

[JMF894]

chapperssx said:

Hi Jimbo what about these http://www.hispecbrake.co.uk/Wedge%20295mm%20Bille...

Hi looks good but as stated cannot afford that at the moment unfortunately.

Next spring i'm wanting to go on a France road trip and the fuel alone is gonna savage me so trying to plan ahead regarding sorting car AND funds.

I figured on grooved discs and uprated pads on the front for now. Brake fluid change too. Interested in the ducting for the rears though.

Do people simply cable tie it to the chassis?

Anyone got a picture of their rear brake ducting?

Jimbo

[cirks]

JMF894 said:

Anyone got a picture of their rear brake ducting?
Jimbo

Can't get undermine at the moment but there's a picture of TOPTON's here:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...

[wooly350i]

Hi Jim,you've gone at this car like a steam train,do you ever rest mate?
Wooly.

[JMF894]

wooly350i said:

Hi Jim,you've gone at this car like a steam train,do you ever rest mate?
Wooly.

Hey Wooly.

It's my passion mate. I reckon i've got a good 'un and i want to keep it that way. I'm still patting meself on the back over the wheels.

Cheers Jimbo

[JMF894]

cirks said:

Can't get undermine at the moment but there's a picture of TOPTON's here:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...

Thanks chap

[honestjohntoo]

JMF894 said:

I cannot afford a big brake upgrade but i was wondering if there was one thing i could do to improve the brakes on the 450 what would it be?

Forget any single magical upgrade, after all, what might be the point of (say) grooved discs and special pads if the rest of the system is crap?

If the system is as old as the car, the answer is a complete Overhaul combined with routine maintenance.!

Grind ridges from the disc edges
New pads/clips/pins, etc
Remove calliper pistons and inspect for corrosion - replace as needed
Inspect cylinder bores for corrosion, clean and polish
Replace calliper fluid seals and dust seals/rings
Inspect unions, nipples and pipes for corrosion/crushing, clean and/or replace as needed
Inspect flexible hoses for cracking/balooning
Thoroughly flush out old brake fluid and replace with same type
No need to migrate to silicon fluid, Dot 3/4 is fine
Remove master cylinder, strip, inspect for corrosion, clean, polish, replace parts as needed
New master cylinder seal kit.
Inspect all hand brake linkages, levers, cables etc for any unwanted friction, clean
Replace hand brake system bits as needed, reassemble, well lubed.
Check servo function and vacuum feed, check seals and any non return valve in pipe/plenum
Check pedal function is free from friction and full travel not affected by carpet, etc
Check pressure limiting valve is free from contamination
Upon refilling system ensure bleeding as per book

All simple stuff, no special modification costs involved, just sensible component replacements as needed.

Not for your car, but there is a complete typical program here

Clicky

From which all of the above was taken

If none of the above need doing then go spend the money as otherwise advised.

Edited by honestjohntoo on Thursday 8th December 23:53

[Grady]

Not to disagree with the prior post but...

In a another venue (big, heavy US SUVs) switching from OEM solid rotors to drilled or drilled and slotted rotors (with regular ceramic pads) have made a world of difference in the longevity of the rotors with no ill effect. Rotors no longer warp in 30K miles and the pads don't make a mess or squeal. (I use the same type pads on my BMW 7 and the rims stay clean.)

Can't say I gained any stopping distance but then everyone is in an arm chair watching the telly, so.... Grady