Home made ramp for £90
Discussion
I was fed up of working either with the car up on 2 axle stands or the silly little metal ramps I have. What use is a 20cm raise? I had a look around for some decent access ramps and found the perfect solution, unfortunately they cost oround £1,000. I decided I could make some cheaper than that.
I sketched a basic design that would give me about 50CM rise so I could work underneath but still reach the top of the engine. I then went to B&Q for cheap CLS timber (£2.08 a length).
The design was basically a ramp long enough to get both sets of wheels on it and then to be able to raise it to level. This also had to fit into my garage. The length was set at 3m mainly because it fitted and that was the longest length of timber I could get. The plan for each ramp was to have 2 continuous pieces of wood as the ramp surface and then a stack of wood underneath to form the ramp bit. There would be a flat bit at the front so when the back of the ramp was jacked up it would have something to sit on. This should make sense later.
The basic cutting of wood to length was easy enough but made a lot easier by this.
This meant I now had a pile of wood that just needed fixing together.
I built the ramp upside down so the surface of the ramp was on the floor and the underneath bit was built on top. I also decided that the ramp surface would be made of 2 pieces of wood with a narrow gap between them. This was because the 3m lengths of wood were £6.50 each and also I picked up the wrong number . Also, it was a cheap solution to making the ramp a bit wider. The ramp surface is 25cm wide and the ramp support is 30cm wide. The various bits of wood were used to get the spacing consistent. I used the pieces that would form lower parts of the ramp to make sure the key supports were in the right place.
First one completed quite quickly but used loads of screws. 2 screws at each joint meant over 200 screws to put both ramps together. On the subject of screws, make sure you alternate the way you put the screws in on each layer or this could happen when one screw hits the head of the one below it.
I would really recommend Spax screws. I had no problems at all until I ran out and had to use another brand. Suddenly my drill driver kept jumping out of the heads, the screws didn't bite properly or go in straight etc. I know this split was caused by screwing too far but was it just coincidence that this was the first of the non-spax screws?
When I turned the ramp over it looked quite good and I was pleased with it. I moved it into position and marvelled at the extra height it gave me and the space underneath. I then banged my head on the door opener and realised I had to make adjustments.
Originally the ramp was made up of 7 lengths of wood with 6 sets of cross struts. 3m, 2.5m, 2m, 1.5m, 1m and .5m lengths meant a nice shallow ramp to drive up with a 50cm flat bit to stand on when I levelled up the ramp. A quick bit of bodgery later.
The 1m and 0.5m lengths were replaced with a single 0.6m length and a little block to stop the ramp see-sawing onto the flat end where the weight is.
All of this meant the car now fitted on the ramp and didn't hit the yellow box that was the garage door opener.
I now have loads of space under the car to work
I am sure there are engineers on here who are laughing / crying into their coffee but it works and cost less than £90
Stuff I would change / improve.
Get the height right first time.
Put some grippy material on the ramp surface as wheel spinning up the ramp is fun.
Buy the right number of Spax screws.
Devise something cleverer than a stack of bricks to hold the back of the ramp level.
I sketched a basic design that would give me about 50CM rise so I could work underneath but still reach the top of the engine. I then went to B&Q for cheap CLS timber (£2.08 a length).
The design was basically a ramp long enough to get both sets of wheels on it and then to be able to raise it to level. This also had to fit into my garage. The length was set at 3m mainly because it fitted and that was the longest length of timber I could get. The plan for each ramp was to have 2 continuous pieces of wood as the ramp surface and then a stack of wood underneath to form the ramp bit. There would be a flat bit at the front so when the back of the ramp was jacked up it would have something to sit on. This should make sense later.
The basic cutting of wood to length was easy enough but made a lot easier by this.
This meant I now had a pile of wood that just needed fixing together.
I built the ramp upside down so the surface of the ramp was on the floor and the underneath bit was built on top. I also decided that the ramp surface would be made of 2 pieces of wood with a narrow gap between them. This was because the 3m lengths of wood were £6.50 each and also I picked up the wrong number . Also, it was a cheap solution to making the ramp a bit wider. The ramp surface is 25cm wide and the ramp support is 30cm wide. The various bits of wood were used to get the spacing consistent. I used the pieces that would form lower parts of the ramp to make sure the key supports were in the right place.
First one completed quite quickly but used loads of screws. 2 screws at each joint meant over 200 screws to put both ramps together. On the subject of screws, make sure you alternate the way you put the screws in on each layer or this could happen when one screw hits the head of the one below it.
I would really recommend Spax screws. I had no problems at all until I ran out and had to use another brand. Suddenly my drill driver kept jumping out of the heads, the screws didn't bite properly or go in straight etc. I know this split was caused by screwing too far but was it just coincidence that this was the first of the non-spax screws?
When I turned the ramp over it looked quite good and I was pleased with it. I moved it into position and marvelled at the extra height it gave me and the space underneath. I then banged my head on the door opener and realised I had to make adjustments.
Originally the ramp was made up of 7 lengths of wood with 6 sets of cross struts. 3m, 2.5m, 2m, 1.5m, 1m and .5m lengths meant a nice shallow ramp to drive up with a 50cm flat bit to stand on when I levelled up the ramp. A quick bit of bodgery later.
The 1m and 0.5m lengths were replaced with a single 0.6m length and a little block to stop the ramp see-sawing onto the flat end where the weight is.
All of this meant the car now fitted on the ramp and didn't hit the yellow box that was the garage door opener.
I now have loads of space under the car to work
I am sure there are engineers on here who are laughing / crying into their coffee but it works and cost less than £90
Stuff I would change / improve.
Get the height right first time.
Put some grippy material on the ramp surface as wheel spinning up the ramp is fun.
Buy the right number of Spax screws.
Devise something cleverer than a stack of bricks to hold the back of the ramp level.
Edited by wca on Friday 9th December 11:38
Good idea but with you username i think i would still prefer something made of metal between the floor and the car..Not knocking your capentry skills but even with axles stands a trolley jack and a spare wheel make for peace of mind..Ziga
PS:Towards the back end there seems to be a slight bow in the wood..
PS:Towards the back end there seems to be a slight bow in the wood..
Jesus Christ!
Seen it all now!
Are you really really really really sure that's safe coz one of my worst nightmares on ways to die apart from drowning and burning is being stuck under a fallen car whilst it kills you!
You don't have a dog called gromit do you?
Seen it all now!
Are you really really really really sure that's safe coz one of my worst nightmares on ways to die apart from drowning and burning is being stuck under a fallen car whilst it kills you!
You don't have a dog called gromit do you?
Edited by wooly350i on Friday 9th December 13:53
Sorry for mocking you mate but it really doesnt sound/look very safe and god forbid anything happening while you under there!!..I had a friend crushed under a car cos he wouldnt listen to what people were saying..His famous last words were "It'll be alright"..He used one axle stand and a dodgy trolley jack..If that was my garage i think i would look into how much it would cost to hire a pnuematic drill, Id cut the floor out and then dig a trench with the help of a few mates..Good luck!!..Ziga
mrzigazaga said:
Sorry for mocking you mate but it really doesnt sound/look very safe and god forbid anything happening while you under there!!..I had a friend crushed under a car cos he wouldnt listen to what people were saying..His famous last words were "It'll be alright"..He used one axle stand and a dodgy trolley jack..If that was my garage i think i would look into how much it would cost to hire a pnuematic drill, Id cut the floor out and then dig a trench with the help of a few mates..Good luck!!..Ziga
DIG A TRENCH, that's a bit presumptuous zig,don't fink the local grave diggers would approve especially there!mrzigazaga said:
...Id cut the floor out and then dig a trench with the help of a few mates...
And then watch your car disapear into the hole as the edge breaks away cos your 3 to 4 inches of un-reinforced concrete floor broke away as the subsoil crumbled into the pit!...lol We all have brain waives that can be dangerous if done without careful planning.
Timber is very strong and layered in that way works well..but i would suggest it needed to be longer to get at least 3 layers under the rear axle.
How about a second hand two post lift. They are available as a single phase and reasonably cheap to buy and erect. They are safe even second hand. This is something I have considered for my garage as I do have the hight for two cars. I have to say one thing though, that wooden ramp took some imagination and design and just for that I give you full marks.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
Concrete floor is a re-enforce slab so there is no digging through it.
Agree about the safety and need to support the back end. There will be bricks and my axil stands supporting the back of the ramp, I just hadn't got them in shot when taking photos.
The wood supporting the front wheels is fine I think as under compression it isn't likely to go anywhere. The wood used for the top of the ramp is strong enough to hold the cars weight on its own (not that I would risk that) so with a stack of bricks under the wood below the rear wheels and the axil stands supporting it as well all should be fine.
There is no flex when I add an extra 100kg to the drivers seat. ;-)
Agree about the safety and need to support the back end. There will be bricks and my axil stands supporting the back of the ramp, I just hadn't got them in shot when taking photos.
The wood supporting the front wheels is fine I think as under compression it isn't likely to go anywhere. The wood used for the top of the ramp is strong enough to hold the cars weight on its own (not that I would risk that) so with a stack of bricks under the wood below the rear wheels and the axil stands supporting it as well all should be fine.
There is no flex when I add an extra 100kg to the drivers seat. ;-)
Hi Mate..I know you are trying to save money but its not always the best way to go!!...I found this site if anyone is interested..Some neat little bits of kit..ziga
http://www.cjautos.site90.net/hyramp.html
http://www.cjautos.site90.net/hyramp.html
Big lol from me sir......ive been a master carpenter for nearly 30 years now and i take my hat off to you for this cunning plan,only wish i had thought of it.I purchased a set of restoration ramps from a guy on here for 300 squid and i have to agree with you that it does make working on our tvrs much much easier,i think a set of good ramps is a must for anyone who wants to do home mechanics on their loved motors
I will post some pictures of the bricks under the wheels in the morning. The only way the car is going to fall is if the brick crumble or the whole car and ramp jumps forwards. Bear in mind I was wheel spinning up the ramps to get it on there and the ramps didn't move forward I think we are pretty safe.
I appreciate your concerns for my safety but lets consider the physics. Front end weight is directed down through the front wheels and then through the wooden ramp. Back end weight is directed down and then through the bricks. So basically the car is parked on 50CM of wood at the front and 50CM of bricks at the back. If the car rolls forwards or backwards it rolls on the ramp surface so the forces remain pretty much the same. If the ramp moves it needs to be hit with enough force to slide the 60cm of wood across a concrete floor while there is over a tonne of car pushing down.
Heath Robinson with a basic understanding of physics* please
I appreciate your concerns for my safety but lets consider the physics. Front end weight is directed down through the front wheels and then through the wooden ramp. Back end weight is directed down and then through the bricks. So basically the car is parked on 50CM of wood at the front and 50CM of bricks at the back. If the car rolls forwards or backwards it rolls on the ramp surface so the forces remain pretty much the same. If the ramp moves it needs to be hit with enough force to slide the 60cm of wood across a concrete floor while there is over a tonne of car pushing down.
Heath Robinson with a basic understanding of physics* please
- If you read about this in the Southampton Echo then I take back my defence and admit you were right ;-)
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff