Starter issue returns...Found the culprit!!
Discussion
Hi peeps...well i thought it was sorted but the issues surrounding the starting came back..It appears to not be electrical but mechanical..Someone did suggest it and they were right..Its the teeth on the ring gear, Although very shiny its not what they should be, They are also worn at an angle facing away from the engine..This was discovered after attempting to fit another starter..I have been quoted £120 for the repair including a second hand ring gear that will be inspected..It will do for now..Later on i will have the gearbox refurbed along with new parts..There might be another issue..If the clutch plates are thin which they probably will be then its new clutch time but instead of fitting a like for like i may go for a cosworth clutch which is slightly more expensive but can handle more power and make the clutch feel a little lighter..This is something that would need to be done anyway if i decide to get the engine work done..I hope it doesnt need it yet though..On the plus side i went and picked up my new hand made to measure battery box..I have elaborated with some webbibg that i had laying about, It already had a buckle on it..Touch!..Only cost me £20..Going out there now to fit it in...Cheers..Ziga
Battery Box fitted:
Battery Box fitted:
Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 23 February 18:02
Could have been a previous loose starter motor which caused the damage......I've seen several Ford Colognes and Pintos with loose starters. If you are doing the clutch anyway, have you though of a complete flywheel ? I don't know if it might be cheaper from the scrappers.
Clutch - Have you got the horrid 'push the outer sheath' type cable clutch ?
My clutch pedal was REALLY heavy, and the cable actually broke one day. When replacing it, I discovered the tube bolted on to the pedal (which the cable outer fits into) was too long, and was fouling and rubbing on the inner cable, which is why the cable broke. In fact the tube had almost worn through on its end where the inner cable was rubbing.
Using the wear mark as a guide, I shortened the tube slightly (hacksaw) and it made a *HUGE* difference to the clutch. It's much lighter and more responsive, and 'bite' point is more obvious.
Just thought I would share that !
Clutch - Have you got the horrid 'push the outer sheath' type cable clutch ?
My clutch pedal was REALLY heavy, and the cable actually broke one day. When replacing it, I discovered the tube bolted on to the pedal (which the cable outer fits into) was too long, and was fouling and rubbing on the inner cable, which is why the cable broke. In fact the tube had almost worn through on its end where the inner cable was rubbing.
Using the wear mark as a guide, I shortened the tube slightly (hacksaw) and it made a *HUGE* difference to the clutch. It's much lighter and more responsive, and 'bite' point is more obvious.
Just thought I would share that !
Cheers chaps..I have got a cable operated clutch but its not too bad..Mind you i have got size 12 feet and weigh 16 stone..
..The price he quoted me was for labour and fitting a second hand ring gear as he has loads of spares..Not sure what caused the damage though!..
Chuffed with the battery box as i had only some styrofoam holding it in previously..Just hope the torque glue holds it..If not i have some black tac and that stuff holds anything..Cheers..Ziga
..The price he quoted me was for labour and fitting a second hand ring gear as he has loads of spares..Not sure what caused the damage though!..Chuffed with the battery box as i had only some styrofoam holding it in previously..Just hope the torque glue holds it..If not i have some black tac and that stuff holds anything..Cheers..Ziga
..I knew there was something i forgot to do..Good job ive got a spray tin of my car colour...Ive just got to spray some into the lid and use a brush..Soon be done..ZigaTOPTON said:
Ah but when you enter the tidy car comp at bbwf, now we know we'll lift the battery box out to check
Second thoughts, can't do that if you're fixing it in with blue tac
Not Blue tac.."Black tack"..Its similar to blue tac but its 100 times stronger..Kinda like a bubble gum that dont go hard..Ive used it as a plug for a hole in my old metering head cap..A grommet for the accelerator cable..Holding on my ignition module..Holding my centre console plate in..I believe its water -proof but not hot water..It really is handy stuff..Second thoughts, can't do that if you're fixing it in with blue tac
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=b...
Thanks grady, I will look into that..Cheers..Ziga
Solitude said:
Just a thought Zig....my car collects water around that area in bad rain.
Do you think you should put drip holes into it ? And also Air holes maybe ??
(Am i being Dumb here ??)
Gavin
Good point mate..Mine only seems to collect water in the opposite side where the expansion tank is..Ive never seen it in the battery side..The box is also made from stainless and i will probably put some black tack around the lower edges of the box..(Once ive touched it up with some red)..Also i have an air vent just in front of the wheel arch and that should provide ventilation..Plus the gap at the top of the bonnet and the gaps around the side..Maybe a custom size pack of silica gel just behind the box..Should be ok..Cheers..ZigaDo you think you should put drip holes into it ? And also Air holes maybe ??
(Am i being Dumb here ??)
Gavin
mrzigazaga said:
Cheers chaps..I have got a cable operated clutch but its not too bad..Mind you i have got size 12 feet and weigh 16 stone....
Fair enough, but to put in perspective, I'm 6 ft 5, weigh more like 18 stone, and have slightly smaller feet (11), and clutch was still heavy for me. My wife couldn't even drive the wedge to start with.....now I don't even notice.....I was just wondering how many other Wedge owners may have the same problem lurking. (not the V8's as they are hydraulic clutch of course)
(Yes, I *just* fit under the roof panel !!)
Hi Peeps..well went to the garage this morning to have the gearbox dropped and a ring gear replace and possibly a clutch..We did one last test with some of the wires as i dont want to be shelling out if i dont need to..It seemed to be ok running a wire directly to the starter from the battery so the ignition has a bridge wire on it now with a fresh wire to the starter..It seems to be ok although there was one incident throughout the day where it didnt want to start..I will eventually have the main wires rewired along with the wires from the light switch to the pods..While i was there i spotted a polished plenum..I had it off him for £30..Hacked off the ford badge and got a little plate of stainless to put a TVR badge on..Also painted the gaps red..I will fit it once i have sent the spare inlet manifold off to be tigged and rebored/polished..It will cure my snapped threads as thats the side they are on and give me some more horses..Apparently 10-15bhp but i will wait and see...Cheers..Ziga
RCK974X said:
Sorry to be negative, but I am cynical about 20bhp from polished inlets.....On the other hand it will look a lot nicer under the bonnet !
Me too..But ive been told that modifying the inlet manifold by tigging up the trumpet nearest the distributor and opening it up a bit plus the two that share can be opened up a little and can give up to 10-15bhp..(Sorry not 15-20)..Its a cheap mod that could yeild some results..ZigaYeah, you'll probably get a little, but I always understood that better gains come from detail valve pocket work, as this is where biggest flow restrictions typically are....
And lots of 'experts' claim all sorts of ridiculous power gains from silly mods.
Explanation - just my point of view, not knocking a nice polished plenum for the looks, I just don't think it will make many horses. Lots of people had this view that the Colognes were poor flow because of things like the siamese exhaust ports and the shared inlet ports on the MFi (K) system - but the true experts say these only become an issue when trying to get 200BHP plus with a hot cam, AND you've already modded the heads.... so it's not really true...
And remember the Turbo Capri didn't have flow mods, just the turbo bolted on, for what...er..240bhp ???
And lots of 'experts' claim all sorts of ridiculous power gains from silly mods.
Explanation - just my point of view, not knocking a nice polished plenum for the looks, I just don't think it will make many horses. Lots of people had this view that the Colognes were poor flow because of things like the siamese exhaust ports and the shared inlet ports on the MFi (K) system - but the true experts say these only become an issue when trying to get 200BHP plus with a hot cam, AND you've already modded the heads.... so it's not really true...
And remember the Turbo Capri didn't have flow mods, just the turbo bolted on, for what...er..240bhp ???
The plenum is jut for looks and wont yeild any horses..Im talking about the inlet manifold being modded..I might go for an engine rebuild later with bigger valves and stage 2 heads + V6T21 cam and some balancing and port matching..Lightened flywheel and some tunning to the fuel distributor but it wont give me loads of power..I agree a turbo is the way to go with a N/A V6 cologne as its the only real way of pushing up the torque..There was an "Ultimax" cologne that was 3.7ltr..Sounds interesting but it would probably cost the earth..Im having mine rebuilt purely for peace of mind and if i can squeeze some more power out then its a bonus..Im quite happy with mine as its not a bad engine...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=M...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=M...
Ahhh..right. OK.
I believe that the upright 'tubes' can be opened out a little after head mods etc, but careful, as they aren't all that thick, apparently. I haven't tried this, so can only repeat what I've read/heard, and it might be wrong.
In several places I've read that many tuners actually went back to Carb with a 40DFI5 (?) and the 2.8 (or later 2.3) carb manifold, because it's actually better flow overall. I was surprised but apparently it's true....
I do know that several different carbs will bolt directly to the std manifold...
'Specialised Engines' and others do the big capacity Colognes. They are on the web....they use a US 4.0 cologne crank I think....
I believe that the upright 'tubes' can be opened out a little after head mods etc, but careful, as they aren't all that thick, apparently. I haven't tried this, so can only repeat what I've read/heard, and it might be wrong.
In several places I've read that many tuners actually went back to Carb with a 40DFI5 (?) and the 2.8 (or later 2.3) carb manifold, because it's actually better flow overall. I was surprised but apparently it's true....
I do know that several different carbs will bolt directly to the std manifold...
'Specialised Engines' and others do the big capacity Colognes. They are on the web....they use a US 4.0 cologne crank I think....
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